Best chain saw for limbing?

Bob I have the smallest gas saw that Stihl makes it is truly a one handed saw, very lite check them out   

Gee I don't know guys.  I have 4 chainsaws and the smallest one has a 16″ bar.  I hardly use it because to me it works me harder than the bigger saws.  If I drop a tree I walk up it with the saw and cut the limbs off with the same saw I cut the tree down with. (hope we are talking about the same kind of limbing).  If I use a small saw I am bending over to everything.  I have a saw with a 20″ and another with a 24″ bar.  I normally use one of them.  My two cents worth. 

Bob,

I used to use an electric 12″ Remington for limbing standing trees and cutting downed branches to firebox length. A couple of years ago I had some guys up here to take down some trees near the house. They required topping before they could take down the main trunk.

I was intrigued with the small gas saws that they used. The told me that they were called Toppers. I went out and got an Echo CS-3000 and have been happy with it. The saw is light and made for hauling up on a line when up in the tree. Usually takes 2-3 pulls to start it when I haven’t used it for several weeks. Once it is warmed up, it never takes more than 1 pull. I used it a couple of months ago at the top of a 17’ ladder cutting off some cedar branches that needed to be removed.

Take a look at Toppers. Stihl also makes them, but I found the Echo on Craigs List so saved some money.

RonJ

Bob,

I use this for felling http://www.youtube.com/watch?v…..&NR=1 and this for trimming http://www.youtube.com/watch?v…..re=related . Seriously, my friend has a Stihl MS200T and it is very light to use for trimming.

If I'm cutting trees for firewood the 18″ works the best for limbing, anything smaller makes you climb between the branches you're limbing too much. I'm with Larry when it comes to cutting trees to length on the ground. At first I wondered why everyone else brought 24, 28 or 30″ bars when the lodgepoles we were cutting were no more than 15″ across? One day leaning over with the 18″ saw answered that. At home I use the 18″ when I'm too far away from a cord, otherwise I have a cheap Poulan electric 10″ pole saw that detaches from the pole for hand limbing small branches, works great.

 For Bob, there are small cordless lightweight chainsaws, don't think the batteries would last long though. How about a small generator for your Wen?

Bob,

I do a lot of clearing fence line due to years of neglect (had to work for money). That is also why I purchased the dozer. I have at least eight chainsaws from an electric pole saw up to a Husqvarna 395XP with 42″ bar. My wife bought me a Stihl pole saw which I returned because I did not want another spark plug that just sits around doing nothing. Generator and extension chord works for me. My first chainsaw was an Echo Super which I used and abused until the nut came off the flywheel and broke a number of cooling fins. It was cheaper to buy a new saw, so I purchased a Husqvarna Rancher 55. I also purchased a cheap Poulan for a small saw thinking when it quits I would just toss it and buy another. After another two Poulans I wised up and went to a small Husqvarna. I have had to learn to rebuild carbs but that is not hard to do. Just like tractors, parts is an issue so I will now only buy a Stihl or Husqvarna and it is usually a Husqvarna because of price. Most shops sell Stihl but the CDF in our area use Husqvarna.

I can not recommend a small chainsaw because everything is changing so fast. I am not sure but the small Husqvarna MAY be made by the same people that make the Poulan. A site to check out is the Forestry Forum for a recommendation. I also purchase supplies from Bailey's Online.

On the small chainsaws I use a 16″ bar,  mid size chainsaw a 24″ bar and large chainsaw a 36″ bar. I do not use safety chain and for the mid size and larger have gone to skip tooth chain. For the Alaskan mill I use ripping chain. The large chainsaws are used only for milling and cutting eucalyptus trees. Some of the eucalyptus trees I have had to cut both sides and it was close to a 36″ bar not being long enough. The mid size chainsaws I use for firewood and my Mini-Mill setup. The small chainsaws with 16″ bars get the most use.

Hopes this helps.  Phil

I guess it all depends on what and how much cutting  you are doing. I have a 20″ & 14″ for felling and then cut the branches off while the tree is on the ground. I also bought a great little B&D portable 8″ saw with rechargeable batteries. I use the small saw for clearing shooting lanes (branches & small trees) when setting up deer stands. Works well for small stuff around the house especially with extra batteries. Can use with one hand and cuts well with a properly sharpened chain.

Len

Bob…one thing missing from your video, I didn't hear you yell the traditional “TIMBER”. Those are nice tall pine trees. Are you clearing this area for a new building, road or parking area?

If it a'int a Husky it a'int a chain saw. Seriously , up here on the mighty north west coast we use the same saw for felling as we use to limb them when down. As one previous post said Why bend over if you don't have to.To haul them out of the forest the Jinma 354  with a 20 Ft chain is all you need. The bigger the saw the more power. A nice size saw is the Husky 390 XP under 20 pounds and runs real good with low vibration ( lowers the risk of white knuckle  and fatigue). The real trick other than the size of your saw is to keep a sharp chain, sharpen at a minimum every tank full, after about an hour or so of cutting. Use a guide, after years working as a faller I was pretty accurate by eye , then I was in the chain saw shop one day  he had a small aluminium file guide that sits on the chain with two plastic covered rollers set at the correct height and all you need to do is keep the file flat on the rollers and parallel to the guide and you have the sharpest saw chain you will need in minutes once you become used to it and it only cost 5 bucks. Oh and don't forget to flat file the rakers every once in a while.