Glow Plugs

Howdy Len,

How many positions does the key switch have? If there is 4 positions, then it's probably hooked to the glowplug circuit. Others are hooked to a toggle switch on the dash. You push that while cranking until it starts.

Jack

Len, that “H” is where you hold the key to energize the glow plugs.

Tin, just beat me….  Yes “You” have to hold it in the H position.  Around here in the middle of winter to takes about 45 seconds before the glow plugs help much. 

Sorry Len,

4 + 1 (off) = 5    

Thanx to Larry and Eric for backing me up 

You might have to hold it there a might longer depending on how cold it is and how the battery condition is. Weak battery will cause it to take longer and then risk the problem of not enough juice to crank it. 

After engaging the de-compression lever and cranking (to build up fluids), switch the glowplugs on for approx 25 seconds. Then go to start. 

Jack 

Len,

When you hold it in the H position, what does the ammeter gauge read?

I'm not in a really cold climate, but in case it helps-here is my starting technique.

1. Move hand throttle control so accelerator is slightly depressed.

2. Turn decompression lever clockwise till it stops.

3. Turn key to start position and watch oil pressure gauge till pressure peaks.  This allows the engine to circulate oil without the starter fighting compression.  Release key.

4. Turn key to H position (ammeter should drop way into the negative) and hold in that position for 25 seconds.

5. Immediately (so glow-plugs don't cool) turn key to start position.

6. If tractor does not start in ~5 seconds, repeat from step 4.

At step 5 if it is really cold, I engage the decompression lever, turn the key to start and release the decompression lever when the oil pressure peaks.

RonJ

You may be turning the compression release lever to far. As you turn the lever you will feel resistance and after that the resistance will decrease as the lever goes over center and then releases the valve. You only need to turn the comp lever far enough to open the valves.

I would also check that they are connected at all. My DF came with a manifold preheat and GPs. A few winters ago had a hard time starting with the manifold heater. Switched the wire to the GP busbar and a few 20 sec.  bursts and it fired right up. Put a tester on the bus bar or wire connecting and have someone engage them and see if you get some draw. It may need some cleaning as well (black paint in my case) so you get good contact. You will also know if the switch is the problem as well which is common. After that you may need to check the individual GP's. Where i am you can't start without them at -20 C. Although the block heater helps alot but only use that below -10 C. 

Good luck Dave

My Jinma is a “284”, 3 cylinder and the first winter of 2009-2010 went fine.  The tractor is stored outside and I glowed the plugs for up to 45 seconds when the temp was around 10F.  By using the compression release, it started after 2-3 attempts.  I also use a Katz coolant heater when temperature drops below 15F.  In Fall of 2010, I noticed the cold start stumbled on maybe one or two cylinders so I made three changes:

1. Replaced all three glow plugs
2. Installed a 12V starter relay to provide direct battery power to bus bar via the relay.  Cost at AutoZone was under $20.00
3. I limit my glowing time to around 20 seconds instead of the earlier 30-45 seconds. I think I actually burned out one or more glow plugs by running long glow times over 30 seconds.

In addition, the key has the well known change to allow glowing while cranking.  It also allows glowing while the engine is stumbling to “even out” if I need it.

Good luck.

I have a Nortrac 204C that I bought used last year. I stored it over the winter after installing an in-line coolant heater. I started it up about a month ago for the first time when the temperature was a balmy 50 degrees F and have been using it to move some dirt on my land.

After that first warm day, the temps here in Buffalo dipped into the low teens over night and only about 20's during the day. The dirt mound was not frozen but the ground was so I could still work.

I was starting it every day for about a week in the very cold weather. The heater seemed to me to do the most for the starting performance. I would put the heater on for about an hour and also, plug in a charger to the battery for extra boost. As long as the heater did its work, the engine started better than I had ever expected. I also used the compression release lever and glow plugs as noted in some of the posts above.

I do have one question about the glow plugs. How do you test the glow plugs to see that they are working short of taking them out of the engine and checking them on the bench?

If you have an ampmeter you can check the wire to the glowplugs. If you knew how many amps each glow plug used you could multiply by three to see if they are all working. Short of that you would need to pull them one at a time and test.

 Davoth mentioned his came with a preheater and the glow plugs were not even wired up, mine came the same way. I thought the wire running to the pre heater was a few sizes too small so I ran a wire from the starter to a 40 amp circuit breaker to a starter solonoid out of a junk Honda, energized by the original pre heater wire. Then ran a 12 ga. wire to the glow plug buss bar and the manifold pre heater. Make sure the buss bar is clean where the wire screws to it and not covered with paint.

Hey Timbender,

I left the same wire as the manifold heater and has worked no problem, although I should replace with larger one.  (12 ga.) . Haven't blown a fuse yet and only heat up to about 30 sec. each time, the wire still seems good, no overheating evident.  On the list to replace though……..

Dave