Forum › Forums › Tractor Troubleshooting › Engine Stall Trouble shooting help needed
- This topic has 18 replies, 9 voices, and was last updated 13 years, 5 months ago by Bob Rooks.
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April 12, 2011 at 5:20 pm #30266
I have a Nortrac 204c. It has been running like a champ until a few days ago.
While moving some dirt with the FEL, the engine started to lose power and was running rough. I had to feather the throttle to get the RPM's up enough to keep it going. Then it just stalled out completely.
I assumed that the problem was with the oil level in the Fuel Injection Pump. This has happened before and the symptoms were identical to this instance. I filled it up and then cranked the engine. It took a while but I got it started and it ran very well for about 20 minutes.
Then it did the exact same thing as before, ran very rough, then went out completely. The oil in the pump looks fine.
What else should I check before attempting to start it up again? Did I miss something? This has been a very dependable motor and other tan it being my first diesel and learning some new tricks, I haven't had any major issues.
Thanks in advance for your input.
-Jim
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April 12, 2011 at 5:32 pm #32051
I would suspect the fuel filter. How long has it been since you changed it? Be sure to fill the new filter with fuel before you install it. Then use the primer pump to prime the system.
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April 12, 2011 at 7:34 pm #32052
So would I,change the fuel filter,see if there is any moisture in your fuel bowl,
Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales
“Your Jinma Parts Superstore”
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April 12, 2011 at 8:12 pm #32053
I have a Nortrac 254 znd experienced similar problems this last year. I was mowing and it started to koose power and miss. Gradually it died. Had to get off and fiddle with the injector pump. Would start and mow again, the it would loose power and die.
Changed the fuel filter and it ran okay for awhile until I was moving snow when symptoms reocurred. Took the screens out of the fuel tank, and the sediment bowl, to reveal the problem of those fule bugs, Cleaned the screens, and the tank, and it been running like new since
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April 13, 2011 at 8:31 am #32056
Thanks for the replies. I changed the fuel filter last fall just before I put it away for the winter. It was inside during the winter and started up well once it got warm enough here. Last summer I drained the tank, cleaned all of the in-line filters and replaced the main filter.
I will pull the fuel sediment bowl off and check for water today. I have one of the plastic-style bowls that is no longer transparent as a good fuel bowl should be. I think that I will pull it off the tank and replace it with a glass filter bowl assembly so that I can check it visually in the future.
It's a rainy day here today so I can't move dirt until it dries up a bit.
-Jim
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April 13, 2011 at 8:51 am #32057
Tommy,
Does your company sell just the sediment bowl alone or do I need to buy the complete assembly? The part number in your website is CO 708-1.
The part number in my parts manual that came with the tractor for the assembly is 180.50.021. Which one is correct?
The drawing of the part in the manual is so crude that I can't tell if it is correct.
-Jim
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April 13, 2011 at 3:49 pm #32061
We sell the assembly, there are 2-styles old has a tapered thread, new style has a straight thread with a locknut
If you go to my part site, in the search box type in sediment bowl,both will come up
Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales
“Your Jinma Parts Superstore”
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April 15, 2011 at 8:47 am #32074
Update on my problem, I pulled the Tank Sediment bowl assembly off the tank and found that it was partially plugged. Probably just enough to cut off the supply to the engine and stall it. I cleaned out the rest of the system and the engine started.
I moved a bunch of dirt and rock yesterday. Seems to be doing well.
The Sediment Bowl/Filter/shut-off assembly will have to be replaced however since the mesh filter has a tear in it. I can't imagine how it got there but no use in keeping it in the tractor.
Tommy: Both of the Bowls that you have in your inventory look just like mine as far as the location of the ports, etc. I can't see enough detail in the pictures to see the difference. I guess I don't understand the difference in the tapered vs. straight threads. Can you explain this further? Which one would be the correct part for my tractor? I took a picture of my assembly if that helps.
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April 15, 2011 at 8:53 am #32075
The New type has a Nut that tightens to the bottom of the fuel tank, the old style does not.
Send me a pic of yours and I can tell you right away
tommy@affordabletractorsalesco.com
Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales
“Your Jinma Parts Superstore”
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May 17, 2011 at 3:39 pm #32360
Sorry for the delay in updating this thread. I got the new fuel shut-off/filter bowl assembly from Tommy and it appears that it was the answer. The tractor has been running well since replacing the part and with the new “clear” bowl, I can monitor the fuel flow.
Thanks again
-Jim
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May 17, 2011 at 10:50 pm #32365
You may still have bugs unless you treat your fuel with a biocide. I would also inspect the screen in the top of your new sediment bowl with a mirror periodically to see if it is beginning to turn black from dead bugs (sludge).
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May 21, 2011 at 3:20 pm #32385
Bob:
Thanks for all the info on diesel bugs. I have never had a problem and since reading topics on this I thought I should try some preventive measures. I looked in several stores for an additive and asked some store personnel, but no one ever heard of this problem or an additive. Do you know of a brand name or type of additive I could purchase? I would like to use something so I don't come up with this problem.
Thanks again for all your assistance in dealing with problems/fixes for our equipment.
Len
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May 21, 2011 at 4:59 pm #32386
I am using a product called Bio Diesel purchased at a West Marine store.
Phil
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May 21, 2011 at 5:27 pm #32387
Kragen/O'Reilly has a product from FPPE called Killem.
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May 22, 2011 at 3:29 am #32392
I use Hammond's BioBor JF which is available at most marine and aviation outlets.
Every six months I test my fuel with a Hum-Bug test.
I cannot overstate the damage these bugs can do to a fuel system, even dead ones.
There are lots of fine fuel biocides on the market, the problem is educating people to use them, or at least test their fuel for them. That said, if you go through a tank every week and purchase your fuel from a high volume source you are probably OK.
If not, it's cheap insurance to test it once in awhile.
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May 22, 2011 at 7:54 am #32393
Thanks much!
I'll check out some marine shops this week.
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May 26, 2011 at 3:27 pm #32411
Would it work to add these biocides to your storage tank? I'm likely to keep quite a bit stored for a long time (read months). Is this not a wise thing to do or will the biocides make it ok?
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May 26, 2011 at 3:51 pm #32412
That is one of the recommended uses for this product, as that is usually where this problem starts.
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May 26, 2011 at 4:17 pm #32414
I agree with Tin.
Lots of people and companies “stockpile” fuel. Nothing wrong with that at all. I do it too. What I have found to be my Achilles heel for fuel storage is the regular atmospheric vent, where fuel vapors mix freely with air so when in conditions of high humidity or cool fog the condensation just goes beserk. I remedied that situation by installing pressure/vacuum fill caps on my storage tanks. They thread into a standard 2″ NPT (drum bung) and have a removeable cap and seal not unlike a large radiator cap. Free air cannot pass. Seems to work, haven't had bugs for quite awhile now, but I still test.
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