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Long time no post. Glad to see you are maintaining your old site as archive.
Me, I've still got beaver problems, and fuel line problems on my dozer.
The dozer has had an easy summer, since I needed work it couldn't perform.
“Spinal stenosis at T-10 arising from Ossification of ligamentum flavum..”
So now I can walk, after spine operation, but can't dance.
Couldn't dance before, either, so no big deal.anyway, to catch you up, the beavers have had a good summer, and they could have a good fall and winter too, except for the fact that the upstream neighbor's daughter is getting married in two weeks and they sure would like the stream to be streaming on their property instead of being a pool backed up from my dam, as augmented by the beavers. (This would seem to be a reasonable request for those who don't know the whole story which I won't repeat for fear of over-boring those who read it before, elsewhen.) (It should be further noted that my wifey
has entered into the discourse on the side of the neighbors, so i am entirely overmatched on this one…) ====================
So anyway, I hotwired the dozer into starting up
( the ignition switch is apparently retired from active duty, and I was too lazy to take the plate off and see why it ain't gettin' no current to distribute),
after filling the tank, and went down an de-dammed the dam, just in time for the engine to start to want to die.
Turns out that the engine runs like a champ as long as their is a positive “head” from the fuel tank: soon as it's below that, I think the fuel supply line sucks air, and it will barely run at an idle.
Which means I backed up all the way to the barn to keep the fuel tank a bit higher.
Anyway, as far as i can tell, I have a crack in the fittings and line which constitute the fuel return circuit, which delivers fuel back through a filter mounted on the firewall. I'm not sure if these plastic fittings “snap on” a metal nipple on a banjo fitting, or whether I need to remove the whole injectors, which was what I thought I would need to do when first I noted a leak near or at the front injector.
I'm not sure where to go or what to ask for…??thanks.
d
(I do know that when I go home, I have to refill the tank, and do the job over. I have become soft hearted and do not want to kill beavers anymore, but they are trying my patience. Actually,
it's the upstream neighbors that need to……..uh, never mind…) -
Hi David, welcome back. Glad you are on the mend.
You say that you have a filter on the fuel return line to the tank? That's strange, not a very common practice. I would sure like to see what these plastic fittings you are referring to look like. That's another first for me. If you are referring to the return line fittings on top of the injectors, the hoses are just push-on. There is no real pressure on this side of the fuel system.
It sounds to me like there is some gunk in the bottom of your fuel tank. What does your sediment bowl and screen look like?
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Yes, this is the low pressure return side. The return goes to the right, over near the “firewall”, and recycles through a “plastic bowl” filter apparatus which also has the fuel shut-off, and the supply line which leads to the high pressure injector pump.
This is not common to have the return line tee-in upstream of the sediment bowl, but it's acceptable.
I would presume from your comments that there is probably something like a “zerk” fitting nipple connector that has these plastic push on fittings which make the hook up of the return lines easier:
The fittings are straight. The plastic lines do become brittle and leak. They can be easily replaced with 1/4″ fuel hose available at any auto parts store. They just push on.
On to the danged plastic “clear” water/sediment collector.
I took it off, as it looked cloudy, and discovered there was zero water or sediment in the fuel: a good thing:
It would be a good move to check your tank also since the fuel pick up is off the bottom.
but putting the bowl back on was problematic, as the plastic had swollen enough to not allow easy reinsertion. Anyway, before trimming the circumference down with a grinder, I've ordered a clear glass bowl from NAPA for $11: I'll know this afternoon if it fits.
Precisely what I did.
My “new theory” is a vacuum lock arising from the unvented fuel tank, combined with the leaks in the return line, allowing air entry, prohibiting any engine RPM above idle.
Quite possible, but I've never seen an unvented fuel cap on a tractor.
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The fuel lines on my fiberglass rounded beauty bulldozer
appear to have a plastic union they plug onto.
Being the lazy person I am, I drizzled superglue on the split, and it has held.
Leaving the apparently unvented fuel cap a turn loose from the bottom has helped.
Next problm up is the fact that the ignition switch gets no power.
Are there fuses?
Luckily the dozer starts easily with a “hot wire” across the solenoid.
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Thank you very much for your assistance.
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PS: Killed two beavers,
fed local coyote,the circle continues.
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Assume you are referring to the key switch (no ignition system on diesels).
Sounds to me like the main 30 amp fuse is blown. The fuse box is located close to the voltage regulator under the hood, but since you have the fiberglass model dozer I can't be certain of that. Do your lights and instruments seem to be working correctly?
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I could quibble about the glow plugs needing energy thru the switch for ignition,
and therefore
..But i shan't, since I've already said I cn start the unit easily by hotwire,
which bypasses the glow plugs, rendering my quibble ALSo wrong.
Correct, the gauges and headlamps are inop.
I've looked for a “fuse box”, or an in line fuse holder to no avail, but I might be (likely am) missing something. Than owner's manual would be handy.
Oh well, I have a voltmeter or two laying about..
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That will be a help.
Based on my recollection, and cross correlation to the picture, I think that it is the voltage regulator which has a loose wire, green if I recall: ormaybe blue i forget.
And the fuse which blew I believe was the protection for the starter solenoid wire which had come loose and probably dangled to a nearby ground.
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Re-reading good book, entitled
“How to Use Power Washer Without Fxxxing Things up”
I thought I had it memorized from the first time I washed some paint off the car,
which cost $239 or so.
it was Wifey's car 
<<<<< slow learner
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