Forum › Forums › Bulldozer & Excavator Operation and Maintenance › Yuchai Dozer Lubrication Points: locations, methods, frequency
- This topic has 17 replies, 4 voices, and was last updated 13 years ago by Bob Rooks.
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October 18, 2011 at 2:59 pm #30427
While the dozer is sitting in my driveway I thought I could get a few more of my questions asked and hopefully answered. First up – fluids.
The manual has a great picture showing all the lubrication points. Only problem is I can't seem to match them all up. (Can't seem to post the picture at the moment but I'll get to that later.
1 – Engine Oil. The picture points to a hamburger just behind the fan. Any idea where the dipstick or other such device might be?
2 – Clutch Case. Yep I see it. Is it a dipstick? if so is it the type that you sit on top to check or screw in completely?
3 – Shuttle clutch hydraulic tank. How do I check this one?
4 – Other hydraulic tank. I see the site gauge but do I relieve all the pressure in the lines first by actuating all the levers? Does it matter?
4a – by the way, I've been lowering the blade and hitch almost to the ground with the engine running then after shutting off the engine I lower them the rest of the way. Is this ok? bad practice?
5 – Final drive. I looked in the big plug where the manual points. Hmmm yep I see a big gear. so what.
6 – Gear box. Same question as 2. dipstick? sit on top or screw in?
7- Injection pump oil. Is there such a thing to check? I heard it mentioned in other threads but the manual doesn't indicate it as a lubrication point.
The rest are Zerks and I think I get that. don't know what kind of grease to use but I can ask Keno what they used.
Thanks once again for any help.
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October 18, 2011 at 5:43 pm #33480
1 – Engine Oil. The picture points to a hamburger just behind the fan. Any idea where the dipstick or other such device might be?
If you have the TY395E engine it will be lext to the flywheel housing on the left lower side of the engine. 15w-40.
2 – Clutch Case. Yep I see it. Is it a dipstick? if so is it the type that you sit on top to check or screw in completely?
Yes. Sits on top.
3 – Shuttle clutch hydraulic tank. How do I check this one?
Some will have a sight gauge just like the other side. If you have a thick steel boss welded to the reservoir near the top, that's where one goes (I have one there), otherwise just remove the screen from the filler and use a clean stick (dowell).
4 – Other hydraulic tank. I see the site gauge but do I relieve all the pressure in the lines first by actuating all the levers? Does it matter?
No. Just make sure the blade is centered and resting on the ground. TPH should be lowered.
4a – by the way, I've been lowering the blade and hitch almost to the ground with the engine running then after shutting off the engine I lower them the rest of the way. Is this ok? bad practice?
Curious why you do that? Best to lower with engine running but it doesn't really matter. It's an open center system.
5 – Final drive. I looked in the big plug where the manual points. Hmmm yep I see a big gear. so what.
The big plug is the filler plug, the smaller plug below it is the tattletale that shows the correct level when the machine is sitting level (and the plug removed).
6 – Gear box. Same question as 2. dipstick? sit on top or screw in?
On top – always.
7- Injection pump oil. Is there such a thing to check? I heard it mentioned in other threads but the manual doesn't indicate it as a lubrication point.
There should be a small dipstick on the governor, they share a common sump. There is also a 6mm tattletale plug midpoint up the side – maybe, and a 6mm drain plug on the bottom – maybe. Mine doesn't have a drain, I use a Mitey-Vac.
The rest are Zerks and I think I get that.
The zerks are all brass and they will get broken off, sooner if not later. I replaced all of mine with steel ones from NAPA. Cheap.
don't know what kind of grease to use but I can ask Keno what they used.
Should be NLGI-1 rated, lithium based. Lubriplate works well if you want to pay $$$.
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October 18, 2011 at 5:50 pm #33481
I kinda like Garrilus.
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October 18, 2011 at 6:39 pm #33483
3 – Shuttle clutch hydraulic tank. How do I check this one?
Some will have a sight gauge just like the other side. If you have a thick steel boss welded to the reservoir near the top, that's where one goes (I have one there), otherwise just remove the screen from the filler and use a clean stick (dowell).
What level is “full” then?
Approximately 1/2 to 2/3. The actual level is measured in the clutch housing with the dipstick.
4a – by the way, I've been lowering the blade and hitch almost to the ground with the engine running then after shutting off the engine I lower them the rest of the way. Is this ok? bad practice?
Curious why you do that? Best to lower with engine running but it doesn't really matter. It's an open center system.
Just seems like a good idea to take the pressure off the lines when I'm done. I also started to do this when I found one of the lines was leaking. If I relieved the pressure it would leak less.
Okay.
7- Injection pump oil. Is there such a thing to check? I heard it mentioned in other threads but the manual doesn't indicate it as a lubrication point.
There should be a small dipstick on the governor, they share a common sump. There is also a 6mm tattletale plug midpoint up the side – maybe, and a 6mm drain plug on the bottom – maybe. Mine doesn't have a drain, I use a Mitey-Vac.
I will look again. It's not easy to see without removing the screens on the side. Same goes for the engine oil dipstick.
I cut a little door in the screen, but not for the governor.
Am I just dense or shouldn't all this be in the manual? wait…don't answer that.
Okay…
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October 18, 2011 at 7:14 pm #33484
Feeling like I just took part in some kind of hazing ritual….
I went out and did a fluid check. As soon as I unscrewed the plug / dipstick on the clutch case fluid poured out everywhere…luckily I got it back on before more than I'd say a pint ran out. I'm going to call that one full. So, let me amend my original question…. HOW do you check the clutch case fluid? Is it only after the tank is empty?
Another issue I noted was when I removed the gear box dipstick. Bright shiny worn spot on the side of the dipstick like it's been rubbing against a gear since day one. I guess eventually it won't be a problem.
Couldn't find anything that remotely looked like a dipstick on the injection pump. I'll worry about that one some other day. Found the engine oil dipstick. I see why you made an access door. You have to remove four bolts to check the oil! I'm assuming the big port towards the front of the engine, just in front of the injection pump is where you fill the oil.
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October 19, 2011 at 11:56 am #33490Feeling like I just took part in some kind of hazing ritual….
Nah, think of it as a right of passage.
We all go through it at some point.
I went out and did a fluid check. As soon as I unscrewed the plug / dipstick on the clutch case fluid poured out everywhere…luckily I got it back on before more than I'd say a pint ran out. I'm going to call that one full. So, let me amend my original question…. HOW do you check the clutch case fluid? Is it only after the tank is empty?
Try checking with the engine running. In neutral.
Another issue I noted was when I removed the gear box dipstick. Bright shiny worn spot on the side of the dipstick like it's been rubbing against a gear since day one. I guess eventually it won't be a problem.
WOW! That shouldn't be. That's a new one. How long is the stick?
Couldn't find anything that remotely looked like a dipstick on the injection pump. I'll worry about that one some other day. Found the engine oil dipstick. I see why you made an access door. You have to remove four bolts to check the oil! I'm assuming the big port towards the front of the engine, just in front of the injection pump is where you fill the oil.
Ya, that's your “hamburger”.
There is also a 710 cap on the valve cover that could be more convenient for you.
Some of the injection pumps don't have dipsticks. Instead, they have a tattletale hole in the side, and are filled through the vent at the top that looks like a mushroom.
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October 19, 2011 at 12:07 pm #33491
There is also a 710 cap on the valve cover that could be more convenient for you.
Oh now THAT was funny! Had me going until I got to the Johnson rod. Classic.
I will take a picture of the gear box dipstick today. Wish I had a bore camera I could use to look down in there.
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October 19, 2011 at 2:31 pm #33492
Gear box dipstick damage:
And I think this might be the reason: I looked inside and you can clearly see a spur gear right below the hole. I think this lid misalignment might be enough:
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October 19, 2011 at 3:19 pm #33494
Actually, looking at the last picture again, I change my mind. Right where the dipstick is the lid is actually close to correct or even maybe moved farther away from the gear. The problem looks more like the hole for the dipstick was not drilled in the middle of the boss.
I think the right solution here is to plug the hole and put the dipstick in the glove compartment…er…the toolbox.
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October 19, 2011 at 4:36 pm #33495
Here is mine for comparison.
Yours appears to have a lot of RTV in the gasket joints. Hmm.
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October 19, 2011 at 4:48 pm #33497
Your dipstick is too clean, Bob.
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October 19, 2011 at 4:55 pm #33498
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October 19, 2011 at 4:56 pm #33499
Bob Rooks said:
“Some of the injection pumps don't
have dipsticks. Instead, they have a tattletale hole in the side, and
are filled through the vent at the top that looks like a mushroom.”See:
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October 19, 2011 at 5:09 pm #33500
Maybe just a reflection but yours looks scraped in the same spot. Either way when (if) I get this dozer back its getting removed altogether.
@phil: what is the big screw on the left in the first pic. The one with a knurled knob and threads showing.
@bob: there is RTV EVERYWHERE. -
October 19, 2011 at 8:19 pm #33501
“@phil: what is the big screw on the left in the first pic. The one with a knurled knob and threads showing.”
Those aren't threads, it's a compressed spring. That is the manual fuel priming pump, and it is attached to the fuel lift pump (fuel pump, with the big hex nut). When you use it, unscrew counterclockwise and it will pop up, then pump it up and down. You have to press it down an screw in clockwise when finished priming the fuel system.
@bob: there is RTV EVERYWHERE.Then someone has been in there before. Ugh.
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October 19, 2011 at 8:25 pm #33502
“Maybe just a reflection but yours looks scraped in the same spot.”
Camera flash.
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October 19, 2011 at 10:05 pm #33504
Then someone has been in there before. Ugh.
My understanding is that they got pretty deep into this thing originally. But I don’t know exactly what that means.
What color should i expect for the final drive oil? What is leaking out is almost black. looks like cooked motor oil.
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October 19, 2011 at 10:39 pm #33506
“What color should i expect for the final drive oil? What is leaking out is almost black. looks like cooked motor oil.”
That sounds like the original Chinese crap (I'm not going to call it oil). What came in mine couldn't be diluted with diesel, de-greaser, paint or lacquer thinner. I drained it out the best I could and refilled with 90w-140 gear oil – a known quantity. It's still gear oil color.
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