- This topic has 9 replies, 5 voices, and was last updated 13 years ago by
.
-
Posts
-
-
Thought I'd start a thread on my “mouse proof” tractor shed. It's going to be slow going so don't expect frequent updates. I get only weekends to get up to the property.
So to start with I thought I'd show first how I designed it. Two pictures: the Google Sketch-Up model and the reality. This is just a pony wall to lift the off-the-shelf shed to the proper height.
-
-
-
Thanks Bob. Yep 2×6 studs. But before you think I've gone overboard the real reason is to give me room for construction tolerance. I need to land the off-the-shelf Arrow shed on top of that wall. I just owned up to the fact my pony wall won't be straight or square and the Arrow shed likely won't be either. 5.5″ gives a whole lot more room for error over 3.5″
-
You don't give yourself enough credit.
Just “3-4-5” one corner and then “X” to square it up.
You'll be within 1/8″ over 50'. That's how I laid mine out and I was right on at 30' x 24' (and site level within 3/4″)
As for being level over a large area I use my rotating laser and receiver. You can also rent them cheap or pick them up at Home Depot or Lowe's, etc. if you'll be needing it more often.
Account deleted.
-
Or, for about twenty bucks you can get a hundred feet of clear vinyl tubing and make a water level that will get you within 1/8″ over any distance it will reach and around any obstructions, too. Sometimes old, simple technology is a good solution.
For that matter, you can get awful darn close with a good 4' level with a set of improvised gun sights taped to it. After all, a basic construction level or transit isn't much more sophisticated, just more expensive. Of course, with the low-tech optical methods you'll need a stick-man, which the snazzy new laser stuff with wireless targets eliminates.
-
-
Funny how we all think alike.
I was concerned about being level over the 21' too. Turns out that was the easy part. I used a laser level by the way. I put two pieces of tape leaving a small gap on a hand tamper. You just pound pound pound until the laser hits between the tape. Easy peasy. Really wish I had one of those spinning lasers though. Mine you have to use a remote to rotate it a little at a time. Oh well, first world problems…But that isn't the problem! Problem is those pressure treated 6×6 timbers. Most pressure treated lumber is green and wet. I think these timbers had leaves on them just before I bought them. I laid them dead level but as they dried they started to twist!
No amount of leveling is going to fix that. This caused the top of the wall that is 26″ away to be out of plumb by more than an 1″! That's where all the work was. I felt more like a cabinet maker than a carpenter but all is well now.Agreed about the 3-4-5 triangle thing Bob. I used 9-12-15 though. For a 21' x 10' building THAT is spot on! But with all the twisting of the timbers and such the top of the wall still isn't dead straight. Tolerance stack up is a b!7ch. My plan is to snap two very square chalk lines on top of the wall and build to that.
Thanks for the compliment BG. I couldn't agree more – building it will be more fun than using it. 21' x 10' is barely enough room to squeeze by the dozer once it's in there. Mostly this is storage rather than a shop.
-
-
-
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.