Instrument Panel not working??

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    • June 13, 2012 at 7:10 pm #30595
      wilff
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        Hi guys,

           So ive recently started to have an issue with my instrument panel.. It doesnt work!! Yet I can start the tractor with no problem…

          The ammeter doesnt move, and I have a brand new battery installed and charged.. tach, water temp, oil psi, and hr meter are dead.

          Lookin at the wireing diagram, it looks like all the voltage goes thru the ammeter before going to the switch and fuse block??

          Ive also tried to trace the 12volt.. but i am unable to get test the pins on the insturment connectors because they are burried behind the fuel tank, and the dash.. 🙁 I can take the cluster out, and take the connectors apart.. but cant test 12volt

          Anybody have any ideas?? Cheers,

      • June 14, 2012 at 1:01 am #34749
        RichWaugh
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          Check your voltage regulator – they can get loose in the socket and cause this problem, as can the key switch.  I think there is a fuse on the back of the instrument cluster, too.  You didn't say exactly which tractor this is, so I'm basing my thoughts on experiences with my Jinma 304 model.

        • June 14, 2012 at 9:03 am #34750
          wilff
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            Its a JM254…

              I do have an update.. I was getting frustrated with the electrical.. i decided to pull the cluster, and open it up.. I did find 2 Wires inside on the circut board, where the joints cracked and the wire made no contact.. I got out my solder gun, and joined it back on..

              So now… I have everything back togeather, and all i get is my signal light lamp(s) with turn on, however it will not flash.. it will stay on steady, no flash from the “thermal relay”…. also no illumnation from the backlighting..

              All the other electrical will work, such as my rear work lamp, and my headlights.. my horn doesn't work, but with my voltmeter, I am getting 12v when the button is depressed..

              I think my next option, is to pull the hood, steering wheel, shuttle shift and throttle levers, and pull the cowling right off and pull all the wires now..

              Ps, i did pull the switch, and I am getting 12V on the live terminal, then in the “on” I get 12v, and on start 12v, and in the other direction for the “cold crank” 12v.. so doesn't look like the switch..

              Thanks guys,

          • June 14, 2012 at 9:10 am #34751
            wilff
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              Brain Fart update..

                My cluster is not equiped with an ammeter.. only a Voltmeter!! Sorry

            • June 14, 2012 at 10:23 am #34753
              WillieByrd67
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                Had the same problem a few years back. Found one corner of the cluster gauge that had cracked. Took everything out. Had to replace with a new one. Good dealer, replaced for free because it was fairly new.

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