Forum › Forums › Bulldozer & Excavator Troubleshooting › Suggestions Sought
- This topic has 10 replies, 3 voices, and was last updated 12 years, 1 month ago by Bob Rooks.
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October 16, 2012 at 3:21 pm #30672
Have broken front sprocket on dozer. Hopefully picture will make it, best approach to repair.
should show sprocket.jpg
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October 16, 2012 at 4:15 pm #35149
Bummer, the pic doesn't come through for me. I would have to see what exactly is broken. Can't imagine a broken idler (front sprocket).
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October 17, 2012 at 7:48 am #35150
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October 17, 2012 at 8:57 am #35151
Do I need to block up dozer? (if so one side or both sides?)
Take track apart.
What is best way to remove front sprocket?
thanks,
PS found out the track is jammed so tight that I cannot remove a shoe. Not making much progress, if any, at all.
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October 17, 2012 at 6:56 pm #35152
You will have to back the tensioner off to get some slack. You will have to jack the track frame off the ground to get the weight off of it. Break the track to get it out of your way. Seeing a sprocket would make me think that we are working on the back of the machine. (sprocket attached to final) But looking at the picture that looks like the front. To someone that has worked on crawlers for half a century I have to say that is odd.
Good luck
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October 17, 2012 at 9:23 pm #35153
On Yuchai/Guilin dpzers, the idlers have sprocket teeth on them (why, is a good question). You picked up a log in your tracks, and that's easy with these machines that don't have rock guards.
First, loosen the bolt on the idler yoke that grips the track tensioner rod then back off the tensioner as far as it will go, although the idler may not follow it because it's wedged into the track.
Second. block up the right side of the machine so that the track clears the ground (you can use the dozer blade down pressure to assist with this). Strike that, I see you don't have a dozer wishbone.
Third, start the engine, and be very careful with this, put the transmission in reverse with the left brake fully applied (remember, you're on blocks), and try to roll the track back onto the idler, being very careful not to hit the shuttle clutch hydraulic lines. You should probably have a helper for this. More later.
I gotta say, I've seen a lot worse, but never seen a broken idler.
If this operation proves successful the track should have no tension on it, and you should be able to break the track. Midway between the idler and the top carrier roller would be the best spot.
This should keep you busy for awhile.
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October 18, 2012 at 12:08 am #35154
If the operation above is unsucsessful it will be necessary to break out the hot wrench and sacrifice a track link.
You have to be really careful working in the woods with no guards.
So now, after it's all apart, you are going to have to measure the swing (track) frame to see if it's wracked and twisted, and also check the swing frame pivot shaft to see if it's bent. Also the transmission case where the pivot shaft attaches to see if it's cracked.
There are classes available for equipment operators. I think they are a wise investment.
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October 18, 2012 at 12:25 am #35155
There is also another way to do it without torching the track off but it's dangerous and involves rigging cables and a port-a-power so I'm not going to cover it here. Best to call a field mechanic.
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October 18, 2012 at 3:08 am #35157
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October 21, 2012 at 1:33 pm #35166
Bob: thanks for the advice… broken sprocket is off; awaiting the arrival of the new sprocket.
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October 22, 2012 at 11:07 pm #35168
Glad to hear it. Did everything else check out ok? If the swing frame is tweaked or the pivot shaft is bent, you will be throwing tracks.
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