Forum › Forums › Bulldozer & Excavator Troubleshooting › I ran out of fuel
- This topic has 20 replies, 5 voices, and was last updated 11 years, 6 months ago by Bob Rooks.
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May 3, 2013 at 9:10 pm #30750
I ran my Rhino bulldozer out of diesel, it has the 295T diesel engine in it. I know I need to bleed the fuel system but I have no idea how — and the manuals are helpful — it says bleed the fuel system
Any help would be appreciated (btw: I already know it was a stupid thing to do )
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May 3, 2013 at 10:00 pm #35915
Hi markr, welcome.
Just so you know, you're not the first to do that, and definitely not the last so welcome to the club. What's crazy is when someone runs out of fuel on a full tank – these are usually the folks that don't take preventive care of their fuel supply by testing for water and treating with a biocide when necessary.
To your question. Slightly loosen the secondary fuel filter and operate the lift (priming) pump. When non-aerated fuel flows from the filter, tighten it. You may also slightly loosen the fuel line nuts at the injectors and operate the lift pump but you may or may not get any fuel there because of the positioning of the individual injection pumps on the cam.
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May 4, 2013 at 11:45 am #35999
I assumed the spring loaded part on this was the priming pump
but this is what it looks like, so I don’t think it is:
any ideas?
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May 4, 2013 at 4:23 pm #36001
Yes, that's the priming pump, but the knob and shaft are not supposed to be unscrewed from the piston/seal assembly like that. It should unlock and pop up with just a half turn or so (as I recall) and then you pump it. You need to screw it back into the piston and pull it up, I would think. You may have to use a longer bolt with the same metric thread to get the piston up if it is down too far for the knob shaft to reach.
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May 4, 2013 at 4:25 pm #36002
By the way, I hope you cleaned all that dirt and fung off the pump assembly before you unscrewed that shaft. Otherwise you could have bits of that crud falling into the lift pump, not a good thing.
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May 4, 2013 at 6:11 pm #36003
while you are out of fuel it would be a good time to check your screens and filters,look in the fuel tank for trash.cause you know anything that was in there for years gets sucked into places where filters are when you run out of fuel.
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May 4, 2013 at 7:53 pm #36004
thank you all for you help, I will give it another try
I was going to replace the fuel filter when I did the spring maintenance, but the filter I got from the previous owner is the wrong one, and I can't figure out a NAPA equivalent, any ideas?
I did scrub of the dirt from the shaft before it came out. so I'm hoping I didn't get junk it it — I don't think I did.
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May 4, 2013 at 9:15 pm #36005
How in the heck were you able to uscrew the shaft off the plunger piston??
Now you 'll have to remove the barrel from the lift pump and re-attach the plunger, because I don't think you will be able to get it to pump as it is now.
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May 5, 2013 at 9:27 am #36008
That is the weird thing, assuming it was the priming pump I started to loosen it, and I thought at some point it would either “pop up” under the tension of the spring, or it would stop turning.
But what happened was I unscrewed it to the point that the spring tension literally pushed the rod out of the barrel.
So after what I have read, I wonder if it was ever assembled correctly?
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May 5, 2013 at 9:30 am #36009
I do not know if you can use it but I have 3 tractors 20 hp dong feng,50 hp foton,92 hp jcb 214 and I use wix 3195 in them all.with that said just use this as a place to start looking.
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May 5, 2013 at 11:02 am #36010
If that is your secondary fuel filter in the upper right corner, it is a cannister element type, not a spin-on. Take it to NAPA or any competent auto supply store and they should be able to match it up. Same for a spin-on. I think David has provided the correct number for the spin-on element.
By now you have probably discovered that you can unscrew the barrel from the lift pump and discovered a circlip laying in the bottom.
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May 7, 2013 at 3:54 pm #36022
just to update you all, I took of the primer pump, taking care to clean the area with degreaser. Apparantly this priming pump has never worked. The plunger was so seized in the barrel I had to us a punch to get it out, and after soaking all the parts in degreaser for an hour the plunger still will not go into the barrel unless i tap it in with the hammer.
Also socket fitting where the push rod fits into the plunger appears to have been machined poorly — so it won't hold the push rod. so I would say this primer is out for the count.
does anyone know where I might buy a replacement primer.
Also, going back to my original problem does anyone have suggestions as to how I can bleed the air without the primer?
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May 7, 2013 at 5:00 pm #36023
I don’t think the primer part of the lift pump is sold seperately, you’ll have to purchase a complete lift pump assembly for about $35.00 from one of the supporting dealers of this site, Affordable, Circle-G, Keno, etc.
Your original post said nothing about bleeding the fuel system without the primer. However, you can purchase an electric fuel pump from an auto supply store that’s designed for use with diesel fuel for about $40.00 and use that for priming.
So if the piston is corroded solid in the bore, that's a sure sign you have water in your fuel and a bad case of diesel bugs to boot.
Good luck.
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May 8, 2013 at 9:37 am #36026
Look at your fuel bowl ( thats why it is clear) and empty the spin on filter in a jar let it sit for awhile look for water,that primer might have been frozen for a while.if you see water make sure you git rid of it before you trap more in new parts.my neighbor has a mf 461 with a electric pump and it is self priming when you change the fuel filter,just turn on the key listen to the pump when it has the air out the pump settles down then start.but mechanical pumps are simple,and I like simple.
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May 8, 2013 at 11:04 am #36027
Once I got the piston out and looked at it the corrosion was on top of the piston, so it seem to me that the corrosion was from the fact that in 18 years it has never been used. because down where the fuel could have come in contact with the piston it was good.
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May 8, 2013 at 11:04 am #36028
Once I got the piston out and looked at it the corrosion was on top of the piston, so it seem to me that the corrosion was from the fact that in 18 years it has never been used. because down where the fuel could have come in contact with the piston it was good.
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May 10, 2013 at 8:25 am #36036
back to the priming ,once you get the pump back together is the fuel tank much higher than the pump ,maybe you can let gravity do its thing when you crack the banjo fitting. I have seen it done with 3 to 5 lbs of air pressure in the fill neck of the fuel tank.Then turn the engine over and crack the injector lines to let the air out.It is easier with 2 people.Try to be easy on the starter,keep the cranking time to a minium,easier said than done.good luck
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May 10, 2013 at 4:26 pm #36037
If you're going to crank the engine to bleed the injectors, pull the compression release and clamp it open. It will save your battery and make the engine spin faster, too.
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May 11, 2013 at 6:18 pm #36044
Ok I solved the problem, I couldn't find a new pump so I ended up cleaning up the pump parts with my dremel. Then I wrapped the pushrod with pipe tape and then put epoxy on the piston to recreate the socket that held the push rod in place.
Then I cleaned up up, reassembled it, and i worked like a champ.
Thanks for all your help.
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May 12, 2013 at 7:45 am #36046
Hi fellas, Just throwing in a couple cents worth of info. Been around diesels most of my life and some of them can be a bear to get going when the pump goes dry. We had a 3208 Cat once that when you ran out of fuel, the only way we could get it started after the pump was charged, was to loosen/crack all the injector fittings, crank the engine until fuel started to come out a couple fittings. I mean just crack the fittings no more than a quarter of a turn, when the fuel starts to flow, start closing the fittings, the engine should fire. after all are closed and a miss is detected, go back over the fittings again one at a time while the engine is running to make sure all air is out and the miss should go away. Sorry for butting in, just thought I'd throw that your way. PJ
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May 12, 2013 at 11:09 am #36048
Glad you got it going Mark.
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