Hydraulics not working

Does your tractor have a separate p ump for the power steering, or does it use a priority control valve, also called a diverter valve, to supply the steering from the main hydraulic pump?  Your symptoms sound like a single pump that has failed.

There is a pressure relief valve in the FEL control valve, and possibly one in the TPH  lift box, but those valves are self-closing.  They're not like a circuit breaker where they blow and you have to reset them, they just close themselves when the pressure drops below their set point.

You may have blown your hydraulic pump end shaft seal, or something else that has caused the loss of hydraulic pressure.  You need to troubleshoot the issue at this point.  I'd start by disconnecting the quick connects on the FEL hoses and then reconnecting them, being sure they're completely seated.  Do NOT run the engine while the hoses are not connected or you surely will blow up your hydraulic pump by deadheading it.  If re-setting the quick connects doesn't help, then I'd disconnect the output from the hydraulic pump and put it in a bucket and then start the engine to see if it is pumping fluid.  If not, the pump is bad.  If it is pumping fluid, we'll have to look at other possible causes.  My guess is that you're gong to find that the pump has no output.

You should check you engine oil level – if it is high, or smells like hydraulic fluid,  the hydraulic pump may have blown the front shaft seal and be pumping hydraulic fluid into  the engine sump.

Did you check your fluid level behind the seat ? and the engine oil ? If you are OK there you are prob. right about the pump being bad. Lets us know if we can help you with a new one

Tommy

Affordable Tractor Sales

“Your Jinma Parts Superstore”

http://www.affordabletractorsalesco.com

Call the guys at Affordable Tractor Sales to get the  info on how to remove the pump coupling.  You're probably going to end up ordering your new pump from them anyway, right?.  On the new pump – you might want to consider getting the next size larger pump, i.e. a 316 if current pump is a 312.  It should fit fine and the increased flow will make your FEL run a lot nicer.  Again, the guys at Affordable can give you guidance on this.

Next question to ask yourself is why did the pump shaft get rounded off?  Most common cause is deadheading aggravated by a poor fit from the factory.  You need to determine for sure that there is no deadhead situation happening before you fire up your new pump or you can blow it up on the first start up.  Most common cause of deadheading is faulty quick connects.  If you have the Chinese ones, either replace them with better ones or tear the guts out of them so there is no way they can deadhead if they come uncoupled while the engine is running. Of course, you'll spew hydraulic fluid all over the place in that scenario, but a bucket of hydro is way cheaper than a pump.

Lastly, I should advise you that your tractor is a tractor – not a dozer.  You shouldn't use it to push boulders around.  Neither the FEL nor the front drive components are designed (or robust enough) for such use.  If you need to move a boulder that is too big to pick up, you should chain it up and drag it from the rear draw bar.  Too many people have broken their front drives or wrecked their FEL by trying to use their tractors as dozers. 

I know I may behere, but I felt I should say it nonetheless.  This way, later I can say, “I told you so!”

Good luck getting things back in shape!

Take a look at this pic, the complete pump drive assembly comes out the same side as  the pump came off, there are 2- bolts on the front side that are holding this assembly in.Look at the position on the oval flange it will show you which two bolts to remove, take those 2- bolts are out and the complete assembly will come off.You can then just replace the driver ( Its pressed into 2- bearings in the housing or you can replace the complete driver assembly

Tommy

Affordable Tractor Sales

“Your Jinma Parts Superstore”

http://www.affordabletractorsalesco.com