Forum › Forums › Tractor Troubleshooting › Loss of battery charge
- This topic has 19 replies, 7 voices, and was last updated 10 years, 8 months ago by ironface.
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November 21, 2013 at 7:30 pm #30837
Where is the most likely place the wiring harness would be grounding and causing the loss of battery charge on an NT304C tractor. Battery checks good but I don't really know where to start search. Appreciate any input.
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November 21, 2013 at 9:49 pm #36538
I do not know of likely but if you have a volt meter with a dc amp setting (not milliamp) pull off the + cable put the red meter lead on the batt.take the blk lead and place it on the + cable .with everything off there should be no amps flowing thru the meter,if there is try pulling each fuse to see if it drops off.(most fuses are controlled thru the key switch) but some might be hot all the time.It will be a process of elimination.
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November 22, 2013 at 5:12 am #36539
What makes you think that there is grounding in the harness? Most of the time its the voltage regulator or the alt. out causing the charging problems, more so the voltage regulator. Not sure which one you have, 1-type Plugs into the fuse box, 1- type is on the engine block same side as the alt.The one on the fuse box tends to get loose , some have zip tied them in to keep it from happening again
Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales
“Your Jinma Parts Superstore”
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November 22, 2013 at 12:08 pm #36540
Because I pulled all the fuses and relays and voltage regulator and the battery still runs down in a few hours. So where should I look first?
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November 22, 2013 at 12:27 pm #36541
If you have all that disconnected, I would look for a dead cell in the battery
Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales
“Your Jinma Parts Superstore”
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November 22, 2013 at 12:52 pm #36542
I agree with Tommy. If you have that stuff all pulled, if it wasn't the battery something would be getting awful hot.
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November 22, 2013 at 6:08 pm #36543
Had battery checked at Walmart, checked ok. Seems like something may be stuck on even though the key is off and not a direct ground. I don't know but I'm going to start at the starter and work my way through the system.
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November 22, 2013 at 6:09 pm #36544
What Tinbender said is the key thing here – a short to ground would pull all the amps the battery was capable of and melt the shorted wire in no time flat. So it is likely that the problem is actually a bad cell in the battery causing the other cells to discharge. I'd try a different battery in there and see what happens.
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November 22, 2013 at 7:38 pm #36545
if it is not a maintence free batt. use a hygrometer to measure the acid levels in the cells then use a load tester to stress the batt. you could look at amps the battery takes when it is charged and a fast top off to a full charge means that the batt. is maybe sulfated,and junk
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November 23, 2013 at 12:25 am #36548
Just so somebody doesn't run out and buy the wrong thing.. It would be a hydrometer that measures specific gravity of a liquid rather than a hygrometer which is humidity instrument.
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November 23, 2013 at 8:02 pm #36549
you are correct sorry bout the mind fart
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December 3, 2013 at 7:51 pm #36570
Just wondering if you found the source of your battery discharging?? We would like to know what the outcome was, as it could help someone else sometime.
Max
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February 16, 2014 at 1:56 am #36768
Checked water in battery. Some of the cells were low although they looked full. Recharged it and it held the charge. Used tractor in Feb 13 snow and battery ran back down so alternator not keeping it charged up for some reason.
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February 16, 2014 at 9:30 am #36769
A volt lmeter will tell you where the charging fault lies. On my tractor, I had spurious drainage so I simply put a cut-off switch on the negative terminal of the battery and haven't lost a charge since. I do have a Delco 12Si 60+ amp alternator on my tractor, so any low battery condition is rapidly re-charged, too.
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February 16, 2014 at 12:55 pm #36770
it might help if you had a volt ohm meter with a 10 amp or so dc scale on it,go inline with the electrical system with the key off to see if the is a drain from the battery then turn the key on but do not engage the start circuit to see how much drain is there ,there might be some to run dash gauges but the amps would be low.but for the battery to be drained with it sitting with the key off I suspect that you will see it with the key off.
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February 16, 2014 at 1:14 pm #36771
I'm having the same problem, I've had to charge it to start the last few times. I will disconnect the battery, check the cells and charge today, and start there. My meter has a clamp on inductive pickup I finally have a reason to use once I get it up and running
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February 17, 2014 at 9:16 am #36772
make sure that your clamp on the wire meter is dc readable most are ac.
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February 17, 2014 at 11:38 am #36773
Come to think of it I believe you're right David , but I didn't get to use it. The system is not charging. The reason I had to throw the big charger on to start it every time is I was always in too big of a hurry to give it a full charge. With the small “smart” charger I was able to bring it up to 90% before I could wait no more and it seems to be holding the charge. Just sitting the battery reads 12 volts. With the small charger set at 4 amps charge the battery reads 13.8 volts. With the tractor running the battery reads 12 volts. If I can get home while there's still daylight I will pull the alternator off and take it to the starter/alt shop across from my store tomorrow and post the results.
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February 17, 2014 at 6:32 pm #36776
remember to check the since wire ,unless you have done a single wire conversion
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February 18, 2014 at 8:47 pm #36782
Funny, but I get paranoid when I have trouble with things. Turns out the battery hadn't run down after all, just a loose connection on my hazard lights at the flasher. I'm looking into putting a bigger alternator on it so I can run more things.
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