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I have an early model powertrack 450 lt, two cylinder diesel, shuttle shift dozer that i just bought. the tracks are very loose, i dont see a place to add grease to the adjusting cylinder and i cannot turn the adjusting screw that goes into the wishbone to the idler wheel. i pulled a section of track to try and tighten it that way but cant seem to pull that much slack with a come along, seemed a little dangerous. is there a secret trick to compressing the adjusting cylinder to remove a track section?
i have been reading these forums and there seems like a wealth of information available here.
my three point is also stuck up, well actually she is pretty nice but wont drop her arms, i am guessing the cylinder has come out of the sleeve.
kind of different it seems but my hydraulic resivoir (sp) is above the radiator
ps
bob rooks rocks! not on facebook but saw your page, very nice
when you have a minute could you please post a “proper fluids” post, i see that you occasionally mention the importance of using the right fluids, just cant remember where they all were.
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These track tension adjusters are spring tension only (no grease pump-up), although there may be a grease fitting on yours where the adjusting rod goes into the round spring housing. If you have parts and owners manuals, this will be explained.
There is also a lock bolt on the idler yoke, in addition to the lock nut on the adjusting rod, that must be loosened before you can turn the adjusting rod. If it's been a while since the tracks were adjusted these components may be frozen and require a penetrant.
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You will have to remove the lift box cover (heavy) and reinstall the lift piston in the cylinder, and consequently adjust the piston stop.
Oils:
15w-40 oil for the engine (Chevron Delo or Shell Rotella or equivalent).
Transmission: 80w-90 gear oil.
Shuttle clutch (if you have the type with external hydraulic cylinders): ISO AW 46 hydraulic oil.
Final drives: 85w-140 gear oil.
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Thanks so much bob
when i try and turn the Adjusting screw i can get about an 1/8 rotation but the end that goes into the cylinder moves horizontally a little bit, i think the adjusting screw/yoke may be broken or maybe Totally unscrewd from the cylinder. I will try penetranting oil before i pull the cylinder.
If i do have to remove the cylinder can i saFely take it apart or will the springs make it impossible for the novice to put back together? -
If there is a grease fitting where the adjusting rod goes into the spring cylinder give it a few shots of grease, that may help some. If not, back out (unscrew, tighten track) the rod and apply penetrating oil liberally to the threads and then screw back in to slacken the track. Extreme care must be taken when disassembling the tensioner. Make sure there is absolutely no tension on the bolts before removing them all the way. You may have to use longer bolts on the end cap before the spring is completely relaxed. Place them opposite of each other. Reassemble in reverse order.
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Hope you can still use the info.
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