- This topic has 5 replies, 2 voices, and was last updated 9 years, 1 month ago by
.
-
Posts
-
-
A couple of days ago I fired up my 404 to take the wood splitter off and put the slasher on (It’s that time of year again). The second time I started it there was an electrical type bang from what sounded like under the instrument panel. Everything went dead. I started doing a bit of fault finding suspecting fuses etc but all came up good. Seemed to have 12V present but just couldn’t seem to get the main relay to come in and the dashboard stayed dead.
Anyway after trying various temporary leads to get the thing going I finally discovered that the large Black –ve cable under the instrument panel that goes to the starter relay has lost its frame connection somewhere. Hooking up a temporary –ve from the battery to the black cable on the starter relay and it all comes up good. A quick look around and I can’t see where this black cable goes to but it must connect to the frame somewhere. As it is the end of the day I will track it out tomorrow.
Alternatively if someone knows where it goes to it could save me a heap of time.
-
-
Thanks to yocsr for your post. I finally got the 404 going again. On my tractor the –ve wiring connection is at the fuse box area. However this wasn’t the problem. I finally discovered that the –ve connection at the battery frame connection was poor. Over the years water had corroded the connection quite badly. Repairing this allowed the relays to operate. However once I had rectified this, the tractor still would not start because the start relay was U/S. I managed to get one overnight from Circle D in Midvale, Perth, Western Australia. (credit where due). Maybe the relay failing was the bang I heard from under the instrument panel. Whether the poor –ve connection contributed to the relay failure I do not know.
On a slightly different note, although the wiring diagram supplied with the tractor at new was useful. There are mistakes in it. So far I have found three while fixing my fault. No 1. The clutch safety switch for starting is not shown on the diagram. No 2. The starter relay is called “alternator” on my diagram and the supply wire to the starter pre-engagement solenoid is labeled “armature”. No 3. The main relay is also drawn incorrectly. It doesn’t show a coil and the contact is where the coil should be. So I reckon 10 and 14 are the relay coil and 1 and 3 are the N/O contact.
Finally, I hope my problems help someone else along the line.
-
I just got home from work and saw your new post. I checked my book and mine is labeled right. If you can recieve a fax send the number to yocsr@live.com and I'll fax these pages to you. The starter relays go bad. I've had to replace mine. In a pinch you can remove the cover and manually engage the relay. I did that until I recieved the new one. I've had trouble with connectors losing contact, there's even one on the lead from alt. to battery. Unplugging and replugging won't establish a connection. I spray them with CRC electrical cleaner and that seems to work.
-
Thanks for the offer of the pages but having just retired I don't have access to a fax anymore. I have altered my own diagram anyway. The starter relay must be a bit weak so If another one goes in future I will wire in a generic one. Having owned the 404 for about 9 years now this is the first electrical fault I can recall.
Again on a different matter I have just purchased a spool valve which I am going to plumb into the system. My two sets of remotes are in permanent use with the fitted FEL which means effectively I don't have any spares for my wood splitter. Also I wouldn't mind a hydraulic top link. Plumbing my bucket into a new spool valve at the front will make this possible. Cheers Phil
-
My fel valve is up front. I've got a hydraulic top link on one remote and use the other for log splitter or backhoe attachment. I mounted a barrel lock on the one remote to lock it on full time when needed. The hydraulic top link is the best inexpensive piece of equipment I've purchased. It makes hook-ups easy and can adjust everything on the fly. I bought the one with the valve to prevent drift. I got everything complete including shipping for $265.00 from Agri-Supply.
-
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.