Foton 40hp not charging

Forum Forums Tractor Troubleshooting Foton 40hp not charging

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    • #46287
      John Burns
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        Hi, The alternator is not putting out any voltage on my 40hp Foton. All I get is a little better than 12v after charging battery. This the second alternator. I checked and all battery cables, new belt and tight, all new fuse block, fuses and voltage regulator. The red batt light stays on when key is on and tractor is running. I have four wires connecting to alternator. I tried a jumper from batt to field post on alt very quickly and got 18 volts on multi meter. As far as I can see, there is no broken wires. Any thoughts on this???? frustrated

        John B

      • #46289
        Piper184
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          If you can get 18v out of the alternator by shorting battery to field, the alternator is good. Sounds like you have a bad regulator.

          With the key on, check the battery voltage and field output at the regulator.

          If you don’t see battery voltage at the regulator, you have a problem in the wiring/ignition switch.

          If you don’t see field output voltage, the regulator is bad. The engine may need to be running for this to work, so check that too. If still no voltage on the field connection, bad regulator.

          If you have field output voltage at the regulator but not at the alternator there is a wiring problem.

          Without seeing a wiring diagram I don’t know if there are any fuses or other switches in the circuits.

          I just went through this kind of thing with my Jinma 284. Regulator was bad. For a little more $ I was able to install a reman Delco 10si with only a slight modification to the mounting bracket. This is a “one wire” alternator so I sacrificed the charging system “idiot” light, which is now always on. The amp meter still works and now I can run all the lights and charge the battery at the same time!

        • #46290
          Bob Rooks
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            Are you sure that’s the battery charging light and not just the “key on” light?

            There should be a red LED on the voltage regulator that indicates field excitation when the key is on. If that LED does not come on then there is a problem with the key switch/wiring circuit, or the regulator is bad. Regulators are cheap.

            Account deleted.

          • #46291
            John Burns
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              When the key is on there is a green light on with a V. On the right side there a red battery light that’s been on when all this started. There is no voltmeter, just the light. Could I be burning up voltage regulators? This is the second one and second alternator without a fix. I got battery voltage out of the regulator plug in at 12.63 volts with key on. Maybe I should go with the delco alternator. When I jumped the field post, the battery light went off

               

               

              John B

            • #46292
              Bob Rooks
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                I would go with a bad voltage regulator. Make sure ALL of your ground connections are squeaky clean. There are several caveats about going with the Si alternators, but most people I’ve seen ignore them anyway so I won’t bother.

                Account deleted.

              • #46293
                Piper184
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                  Yeah, the biggest worry is the undersized wiring. The Delco puts out way more amps than the original alternator and can easily burn up the wires. However, the battery can put out more than the alternator, so…

                  In my case I have a new aftermarket fuse block on hand and I can rewire the tractor all at once if I have to, or more likely, a bit at a time as things fail. So far, no problems and the Delco is not overcharging.

                  The other weak point of the 285 series was the ignition switch. Going on 10 years and 500 hours with lots of cold (below 0) starts and all is well after I replaced the glow plug fuse and got it out of the cheap fuse block that melted.

                  Not familiar with the key on light. The 284 had an idiot light that was wired through the regulator that turned on when the battery was discharging and it also had an ammeter. When I removed the original regulator the idiot light stays on all the time. I just ignore it because I can see the ammeter working. Some day I may either figure out a way to make the idiot light work, or maybe a way to replace it with a digital voltmeter.

                  BTW, I had heard about the regulators with the indicator LED. Mine did not have that feature so it was down to troubleshooting with a multi-meter.

                  In my case the regulator shipped to me was $30. The reman alternator from NAPA was $60 with a new regulator and more output. My old alternator (14A)is just fine and laying on a shelf as a spare. I got lucky on the bracket as all I had to do was flip it over and add a 2″ bolt on extension made from some flat iron. Easily reversible if needed.

                  YMMV

                  Best of luck and let us know what you do to fix it.

                  Oh, one last thing, on the 284 the connections to the back of the regulator had a habit of coming loose. I would have to pull them out of the block and squeeze the tabs down a little to get a good connection. After a few hours they would shake loose again. Another reason for me to eliminate the regulator in the fuse block.

                • #46294
                  John Burns
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                    Something else I didn’t mention. Not sure if there’s a connection. The gauges on dash haven’t worked in a while. The tractor is a 2005 without a lot of hours. The V light is on and the red battery light is on. All the rest are gauges that don’t work. Has anyone out there burned up their wires when switching to a delco? Thanks for the help guys.  I’ll let you know how it works out.

                    John B

                  • #46295
                    Piper184
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                      Sounds like you may have more going on than a regulator/alternator issue.

                      Things that come to mind are bad switch, bad wiring, bad connections, bad ground (same thing really).

                      I would start by checking the fuses and the battery. Remove and test it. Clean connections.

                      Start testing with a test light to see where there is power.

                      Make some jumper wires so you can by-pass questionable items like switches.

                      A wiring diagram is going to be a big help. Start tracing circuits. What works and what doesn’t? What do they have in common?

                    • #46296
                      Bob Rooks
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                        Well, aside from the tractor wiring being undersized for an 80 amp alternator, consider that you are also giving up the safety of having the OEM TEFC alternator. I know it doesn’t matter to most of you because you don’t understand the importance. With the exception of only a few, the Delco Si alternators are open frame and draw their cooling air through the front, which is fine for their intended purpose on on-highway vehicles. On tractors they sit right behind the radiator cooling fan and get blasted head on with chaff and dust. Enough chaff buildup can, and has, caused fires. There are several Delco Si alternator models that have a closed face fan and draw cooling air in from the rear. This is a compromise on having a TEFC alternator. Virtually all high-end Ag equipment has TEFC alternators. Aftermarket TEFC alternators are available from Prestolite/Leece-Neville or Motorola.

                        http://www.prestolite.com/pgs_products/alt_search.php

                        So not having a TEFC alternator is synonymous with the guy that’s not going to lash his tractor to the trailer because he’s not going on a thousand mile trip.

                        Don’t worry, I’m not going to mention this again.

                        Account deleted.

                      • #46297
                        John Burns
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                          ok, thanks again. Maybe just sell the tractor????? Kidding. Other than this problem, the Foton is a beast. It has the power, and the right size to work in the woods with.

                          John B

                        • #46298
                          Piper184
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                            In the case of my Jinma 284, the OEM was not a TEFC unit. In fact it had a fan and airflow identical to the 10Si that replaced it. I went from a 14 amp to a 63 amp alternator.

                            If I did field work or extremely dirty work, that would be a consideration along with probably not having a 284.

                            John’s problem remains, what is causing the alternator to not charge? We know the alternator works when “full fielded”, so for some reason the field circuit is not getting the voltage it needs. It very well could be the regulator but the fact that gauges don’t work may be a clue (or completely unrelated). At least it is “cause to pause” on the condemnation of the regulator.

                            If you have a known good regulator, the test is a simple swap. Bear in mind that new out of the box is no guarantee of a working unit. Known good unit means having proved itself on another tractor.

                            After that, it comes down to tracing the circuits and testing connections/continuity as you go.

                            John, do you have a schematic?

                            Also, just curious, what is the output rating of you alternator?

                            If you have part numbers for the regulator and alternator, please post them. We may be able to scare up some more information for you.

                          • #46299
                            John Burns
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                              Yes I have a schematic. The alt is14 volt 500 watt. The new fuse block came with fuses and regulator. The book says its adjuster regulator. The new one replace the old type. No adjuster. I’m still checking on finding just the regulator.

                              John B

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