Tractor stopped dead

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    • July 21, 2017 at 8:46 am #47092
      CalMiller
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        We’ll… my Jinma 454 was working well and I was working it hard. Suddenly with no load (traveling between loads with the FEL) it stopped dead in its tracks with a screech. When I try to start it I here a grinding noise and it stops in less than one second. Within a few minutes the oil in the engine  pan began raising telling me something?  I want to believe its something to do with the hydraulics but I am not sure. Any ideas from any of you experts before I start tearing things apart?

      • July 22, 2017 at 7:38 am #47093
        DavidPrivett
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          what does the engine oil look like has it combined with diesel, hydro oil or water?  was it running at a normal temp. before it quit? was your oil pressure good enough?Was the head retorqued after 50 hrs. or so?

        • July 22, 2017 at 10:51 am #47094
          CalMiller
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            David,

            Thanks for your assistance.  I believe the engine oil has hydraulic fluid mixed in with it. Yes the temperature was normal. I believe the oil pressure was good. I hadn’t noticed any signs of low pressure. I purchased the tractor used with 400 hours, so I don’t know about torquing the head after 50 hours, but it has not been torqued since I have owned in two years.

            I’m thinking about pulling the hydraulic pump to see what I can see. Any more ideas you can provide would be welcome.

            Thanks,

            Cal Miller

          • July 22, 2017 at 12:28 pm #47095
            oldfart2
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              More than likely the hydraulic pump has a blown seal, and it’s dumping oil onto crankcase. DO NOT start or run tractor with excessive oil in crankcase, as engine could go into run away condition. That tractor has two hydraulic pumps one for steering and one for loader and three point. I have a 454, but it’s up North. Not sure if both pumps connect to crankcase.

            • July 22, 2017 at 5:34 pm #47096
              CalMiller
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                I hope its a blown pump seal, but I don’t believe that explains the grinding noise. You are correct there are two pumps connected to the crank case right next to each other. I will proceed and pull the pump to see what I find.

              • July 22, 2017 at 6:56 pm #47097
                oldfart2
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                  I wouldn’t think it would stop the engine, but if the pump chewed itself up, that may explain the noise you heard. I don’t know of any way hydraulic oil could get in crankcase but for a bad seal. if pump is jammed, you may want to flush the system. I would dismantle pump if defective to be sure nothing is in the system. Good luck

                • July 24, 2017 at 2:39 pm #47109
                  DavidPrivett
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                    If it ends up being a bad pump figure out why it dead headed and blew out the seal. There are many threads on this issue. Plumbing a pressure gauge in even on a temp basis will help.

                  • August 10, 2017 at 8:08 am #47148
                    CalMiller
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                      I did find the pump with a blown seal. Now to find the culprit of why the FEL is dead heading. I replaced the quick disconnects recently so I do no believe they are a problem. I suspect is the FEL control valve assembly. Keno tractors told me these have historic problematic sticking issues and that I need to disassemble and clean the control valve assembly. Any other ideas you may have are welcome. Thanks

                    • August 10, 2017 at 4:38 pm #47149
                      Tinbender
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                        I mentioned the screws holding the springs at the opposite end of the joystick to someone having issues with the loader not working right awhile back, it’s worth a shot to check before you take the whole valve apart. When it happened to me the bucket didn’t want to dump, and I could hear the idle go down as it was deadheading the pump and stopped the tractor right away. These screws and springs are under the “thimble” looking caps at the end of the valve facing the front of the tractor. The springs are what return the valves back to center. If the screws holding them back off you get a deadhead condition. You’ll have to start there to take the valve assembly apart anyway.

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