Diesel Mechanic in Phoenix/Tucson area?

Forum Forums Tractor/Dozer Engines Diesel Mechanic in Phoenix/Tucson area?

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    • #47580
      Gary Griffiths
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        I’ve been having problems with my Type 395E engine using oil at a prodigious rate, and today it died under mild load.  I thought I had run out of fuel, but when I put in 5 gallons, I got it started again, and it almost immediately died.  Would not start again, even with starting fluid.

        Not sure I’m up for diagnosing and fixing the problem.  Does anyone know of a decent diesel mechanic in the southeastern Arizona area (Phoenix to Tucson) who would be willing to tackle the problem?  The local implement dealer won’t touch it because they say they can’t get proper parts.

        Any recommendations appreciated.

        Gary Griffiths

        You can take the boy away from the farm, but you can't take the farm away from the boy. 😉

      • #47581
        Bob Rooks
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          Well, your implement dealer is very ignorant. Parts are plentiful online.
          What was your oil pressure before the engine shut down? What kind of oil do you use in the engine? How many hours on the engine?
          It sounds to me like there is a fuel restriction. These tractors do not have an in-tank filter. First, observe the contents of the sediment bowl, then shut off the fuel and remove the sediment bowl and check the screen in the top. Let us know what you find.
          I know it seems like I ask a lot of questions, but they are essential for an armchair diagnosis.
          :yes:

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        • #47585
          Gary Griffiths
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            What was your oil pressure before the engine shut down? Oil pressure was showing about 3-4 on the meter.  Starts at 5 when full, with cold engine, lowers to ~4 when the engine warms up.  Decreases as I run engine.  Usually lasts about 4 hours ’till it hits 2 and I stop and add oil.  Takes about 1 1/2 qts at that time.

            What kind of oil do you use in the engine? 15W40.  I used Delo 400 initially, but have been using the cheap Tractor Supply oil since it started gargling with it. :wacko:

            How many hours on the engine? 380 hours on the engine.

            I have been advised by the diesel mechanic I talked with that if it sat for a long time (which it did) without running, the valves may have been damaged, and oil is entering the cylinders.  Otherwise, may be rings.  There has been some smoke coming from the oil fill cap, but have been advised that may be normal as it serves as a vent for the crank case.

            In any event will check sediment bulb, clean, and see what happens.

            Thanks Rob.  Shoulda thought of that myself, but was extremely tired and discouraged yesterday evening. 😥

             

            You can take the boy away from the farm, but you can't take the farm away from the boy. 😉

          • #47586
            DavidPrivett
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              one thing you should think of is that the problems might not be related a engine that burns oil can run out of fuel ,be refueled and keep going. If it sat for a long period fuel might be all it is, like mentioned check the fuel bowl when you have the lower cover off put a can under it  turn on the fuel make sure there is a good flow if not there might be a fuel screen in the tank valve nipple. You might want to check the engine oil and make sure it does not smell like diesel. But I do not like the idea of it not briefly running on starting fuel. Lets hope for the best.

            • #47587
              Bob Rooks
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                What was your oil pressure before the engine shut down? Oil pressure was showing about 3-4 on the meter. Starts at 5 when full, with cold engine, lowers to ~4 when the engine warms up. Decreases as I run engine. Usually lasts about 4 hours ’till it hits 2 and I stop and add oil. Takes about 1 1/2 qts at that time. Your gauge reads in bar if I remember correctly, so 5 bar = 72.5 psig, and 2 bar = 29 psig. All perfectly acceptable.

                What kind of oil do you use in the engine? 15W40. I used Delo 400 initially, but have been using the cheap Tractor Supply oil since it started gargling with it. No problem there as long as long as it remains a multi-vis oil.

                How many hours on the engine? 380 hours on the engine. Not many at all.

                I have been advised by the diesel mechanic I talked with that if it sat for a long time (which it did) without running, the valves may have been damaged, and oil is entering the cylinders. This is misinformation, but he may have meant stuck valves (which is a very remote possibility) Otherwise, may be rings. This is very likely. There has been some smoke coming from the oil fill cap, but have been advised that may be normal as it serves as a vent for the crank case. Depending on the year of build, your engine may or may not have a PCV system. This consists of a hose between the valve cover and intake manifold. There is an orifice in the intake manifold hose connection. If you don’t have this feature some vapors from the breather may be present, but not a lot. That symptom, coupled with high oil consumption, do point to stuck or broken piston rings. You can perform a compression check to verify this. I don’t know what your resources or skill levels are for performing engine work, but I recommend pulling the cylinder head to check for cylinder liner wear/scoring. We can go from there.
                From what you have told me, your engine seems otherwise healthy.

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              • #47594
                Gary Griffiths
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                  Appreciate all the help. I’m back up and running (still smoking).  Turned out to be (apparently) a blockage in the fuel line.

                  Regarding the smoking/oil guzzling issue, the Nortrac tech I talked with said it is almost certainly rings or a hole in a piston.  Said to pull the head, drain the oil, and there is a plate on the oil pan that I can remove to access the crankshaft, detach the pistons, and pull out the top.  Sounds a lot easier than pulling the engine.  Found a local tractor dealer in Gilbert who said they would work on it if they could get parts.  Probably will tackle this myself, though.

                  Again, thanks guys! :yahoo:

                  You can take the boy away from the farm, but you can't take the farm away from the boy. 😉

                • #47595
                  Bob Rooks
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                    Hmm, my engine doesn’t have such a removable plate, but good for you, that’s going to be a challenge working around that equalizer bar unless you drop it, and if you do, make sure you have the tractor blocked securely.
                    As far as the fuel blockage goes, what did it look like? Sludge? If so, you have a case of diesel bugs and you will need to drain and clean the fuel tank and system thoroughly and treat at least four subsequent fuelings with a biocide ASAP because they are corrosive and can damage the injectors and fuel injection pump. I have personally witnessed the bugs bring a 10,000 HP diesel to it’s knees, and the subsequent $22,000 in repairs.

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                  • #47604
                    Gary Griffiths
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                      Bugs in the fuel?  Yikes! Never heard of that!  No, I checked and cleaned the screen in the sediment bulb, but the Nortrac tech told me just to pull it out and discard it.  Had no problem with that, inasmuch as I have another fuel filter between the sediment bulb and the primary filter.  Pulled the fuel hose off the primary filter and pumped until fuel started spurting out of the filter.  Reconnected the fuel line, pumped until I got quite a bit of resistance, then cranked again.  Took a while, and I was just about to give up in frustration, when it took off.  Had no problem since.

                      Found a tractor dealer in Chandler (just north of us) that said he’s willing to work on the crawler if he’s sure he can get parts.  https://www.arizonatractorsales.com/

                      Will get an estimate from him for labor in tearing down the engine.  Yeah, not looking forward to trying to work around the track and frame to get to the crank shaft.

                      Appreciate your knowledge! :good:

                      You can take the boy away from the farm, but you can't take the farm away from the boy. 😉

                    • #47605
                      Bob Rooks
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                        Yep. “Diesel Bugs” are very real, and diesel engines aren’t their only target. Ultra large fuel tank farms and storage/holding facilities, oil fired boilers, gas turbines as found in ships and airplanes. Virtually anything that uses sulfured fuel oil.

                        https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Microbial_contamination_of_diesel_fuel

                        http://www.biobor.com/fuel-additives/diesel-fuel-additives/

                        And I hope you didn’t throw that screen very far (that was a very ignorant statement the Nortrac tech made) because that is there for a reason – it traps the “elephants”. Consider it the primary fuel filter, even though it isn’t. There is also a small plastic screen within the banjo fitting on the suction side of the lift pump. The spin-on filter you see is actually the secondary fuel filter, and it catches contaminants only down to about 15-20µ, but it does not trap water and the smaller bugs will go right through it. If you live in a high humidity area and have a storage tank I strongly advise installing a coalescing filter on your storage tank such as a Goldenrod Water-Block Filter.

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                      • #47611
                        DavidPrivett
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                          I would suggest that if the parts are now gone replace the sediment bowl filter with another one . There are plenty of styles out there in the after market world, get one with a large clear glass bowl it will make seeing the contents(or lack thereof) easier. Filtration is a thing that is so important. and the diesel bug thing is real but they also need water to live so controlling moisture is a way to control them, there are chemical treatments also.

                        • #47615
                          Bob Rooks
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                            The sediment bowls are a time proven method of allowing fuel to decant, allowing water and moisture to separate, and do some primary filtering through the screen. You won’t always see sediment unless it’s heavy and sinks, but since water is much heavier than fuel you will always see it in the bottom of the glass if it’s present.

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