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As I have stated in other posts, my 284 will bog down or die if I try to bush hog (4 ft) up an incline, or just drive up a bigger hill with the bush hog lifted and not running, in 1st gear High-High range. You guys have helped me fix overheating and steering issues, so I would like to try and correct this somewhat. A suggestion was to check the compression, and there were very mixed reviews on the testers offered. The results seemed to be the same for the kits priced from $30-$100. I didn’t want to put $200+ Into a kit, so I gambled on an Amazon $36 one. I tried like heck to make an adapter out of an old glow plug but that failed miserably. I can only hope that the adapter with the kit will seal.
From what I’ve read, 320 psi would be the compression for a strong engine. I’ve also read that valve lash can cause compression loss in addition to rings/scouring. I have the Y385 3 cylinder and I am having difficulty finding the valve lash procedure. Any help on this if I get that far?
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There are a couple of manuals posted on my website here:
http://harnerfarm.net/Jinma/Jinma284.html
A quick glance through does not show the engine valve specs but I know I have them somewhere. I will keep looking and post when I find them.
As a side note, the operation manual has a section on the power steering gear on page 37.
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Piper, I think I downloaded those manuals, but I will have to look again.
David, I only have 3 forward gears, and it does better in low-high (creeper) in 3rd but has died on hills also. My old Kubota 26 hp would pull a running 5 foot bush hog up steep hills in high 2nd (4 gears with only a high & low range). It was actually real impressive for a 20 year old tractor. But, it had other issues, just like all of us.
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well when you remove the old fuel filter empty it in a clear glass container a look for sediment and water ,hopefully you will not see either, but when you have the filter off open the fuel tank petcock briefly and make sure there is a good stream of fuel flowing out, if not check the filter screen that is hooked to the top of the petcock inside the tank, remove as much fuel as you can before removing though. ( do this where you want to kill weeds) as for the injection pump some have small oil reservoir and some are feed by the engines pressurized oil lube system, this needs to be checked out to see which one you have.
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Words that go with the picture are:
- Remove the Vent/Fill Cap for venting (Cap should be cleaned in appropriate solution and dried).
- Remove Drain Plugs.
- When oil has drained completely, replace Drain Plugs and remove black rubber cover cap.
- Slowly add oil into Vent/Fill Cap opening until oil starts to flow out of Full Level Overflow.
- Replace Vent/Fill Cap and wait for oil to stop dripping from overflow.
- Wait at least 15 minutes after dripping stops to replace black cover cap and start Tractor.
ronjin
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I tried to watch that Keno Tractors YouTube video and it sounded like they said 100 compressor oil, but I don’t know what that is.
Keno got the compressor oil idea from a fellow on another website that wasn’t at all familiar with the operation of a fuel injection pump and governor. I have been down that road with Keno several times. They seem to think a fuel injection pump must somehow operate like an air or gas compressor to warrant specifying that oil. The truth is that they are the only company in the world that specifies compressor oil for use in a diesel fuel injection pump. Another truth is that literally thousands of these Bosch type fuel injection pumps are lubricated from the engine’s oil system. There is a big difference between the formulation and base stocks used in compressor and motor oil.
The injection pump oil should be changed regularly, at least with every engine oil change. Why? Because of fuel dilution, which is to be expected because there are no seals on the barrel and plungers because they are “lap fitted”. To my knowledge, NO fuel injection pump has seals on the plunger assemblies. Sure, compressor oil will work, Marvel Mystery Oil will work, 3-in-1 oil will work, and just about any other oil will “work”. BUT, there is no advantage gained in using them, and their use cannot be justified, then there is the added cost and inventory to consider. My Mitsubishi and Yanmar diesels both have pressure lubricated fuel injection pumps from the engine.
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I just read through that manual that was in Piper’s link. It says for the 200 series that engine oil or hydraulic oil is fine. Some fresh 15w-40 on the way for it this weekend. Thanks for the replies. I also need to try and adjust the brakes because they will barely stop it on slight inclines.
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Think of a fuel injection pump as an inline engine’s camshaft, but instead of the lobes lifting intake and exhaust valves they are lifting plungers in pump barrels. There is also an eccentric lobe on the camshaft for the lift pump, just like a mechanical fuel pump on a car. For these reasons alone I would only use engine oil.
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I did not get to mess with the injection pump oil. I got my compression tester and am not sure I did it right or if the gauge is right. I pulled the stop back and wire tied it off tight. This should have kept fuel out of the cylinder, right? Each cylinder went between 140-200 psi on the 1st stroke, which seems good. But, then checking max psi at 4 to 6 strokes, the cylinders ranged from 400-460 psi. At 22:1 ratio, it should max at about 320 psi. This has me puzzled. I tested through the glow plug ports.
Then I really screwed up. I changed the oil and filter. I added 6.25 oz of engine restore and 15 oz of motorkote. Then I put in the 6.8 quarts of oil that the manual called for on oil capacity. I let it idle for nearly an hour and then ran the throttle pretty high. It blew oil all ove the ground before I noticed it. I immediately shut it down, but couldn’t tell where it poured from. It appeared to be from somewhere towards the back. I let it sit and my brother checked it a half hour later and said it was still over full on the dipstick. What a day!
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Yikes! Too much oil for sure. There is a crankcase breather on the right hand side of the engine just ahead of the fuse block. Round with a wing nut on top so you can clean the screen inside.
Mine takes a hair over 5qts. with a filter change.
Your compression readings seem weird. The glow plugs go into a pre-chamber in the head so if there is a restriction between the pre and main chambers it could explain the readings you got.
Carbon buildup in the heads or pre-chambers could explain your power issues too.
When the engine bogs down under power does it throw smoke out the exhaust? If so, what color?
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My 50 hp foton tractor(quanchi engine) has a oil dipstick that give’s bad readings if just pulled out and read. To get a correct reading you must pull it out wipe it off and then replace and pull and read, even if cold and has not run for days. I have no idea why I assume the dipstick tube is like that, but it is something you might want to try.
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I would go by the dipstick on oil capacity if it looks like the original one , the engine might be different that the model your reference manual has listed so the listed capacities might be off. I would skip the motor treatments for oil . Maybe power source (diesel kleen)fuel conditioner though.
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I went by the manual for 200 series tractors from that harner farms link, which said 6.5L (6.86 qts). I believe it may have gone out the breather and I will have to drain off some.
I want to say that it blows a bluish smoke when it bogs. It definitely put out some bluish smoke when I accelerated it from idle yesterday, then the oil flow. My truck will smoke white on first start up & blow some black smoke when I push on it on the road, so that’s what I compare the smoke color to. I guess it would look bluish/grayish depending on characterization.
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The capacities listed in the manual put together by an importer conflicts with the manual that came with the tractor. I believe the one labeled jinma2-30A is more accurate.
Page 9 states 5L for all engines listed. This matches full on the dipstick of mine (including new filter)
No harm done, just drop enough to get it back to full on the dipstick and the blue smoking should go away.
The breather auto drains back to the crankcase so no worries there.
As I understand it, black smoke is un-burned (too rich) fuel. Normal under load until the RPM catches up to the injectors.
Blue smoke is usually associated with burning oil. Rings or valve seals are the usual culprits here although as you found out an over full sump will do the same thing.
White smoke on cold start is normal and will go away after the engine gets to operating temps. A warm engine that smokes white may be burning coolant. Cracked head, leaking gasket,or other cause.
If your engine was neglected in the past it may have stuck rings or carbon deposits in the head. In which case it won’t hurt to have some “snake oil” in the crankcase and/or the fuel. My experiences in this area are limited to gas engines so others will probably have better advice.
Remember the 284 has a max of only 28HP when everything is new. I regularly bog my engine down, especially when plowing snow or bladeing gravel.
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