Forum › Forums › Tractor Troubleshooting › Clutch not engaging on 200
- This topic has 6 replies, 3 voices, and was last updated 3 years, 1 month ago by TinkerTom.
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August 27, 2021 at 8:09 pm #49701
Bought it for 500 and expected a hobby but I have fixed the diesel leaks on the engine and replaced the battery and starter and it now starts and runs pretty good. When I tried to drive it, it goes nowhere. The clutch feels like it is popping when I press the pedal but nada. I see a big square access panel on the left side of the transmission near the clutch pedal, anyone know if that is to inspect the clutch? I notice also that the gears change with or without the clutch pedal down and feel about the same.
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August 28, 2021 at 8:18 am #49702
There is a cover on the bell housings on each side. If you have a front end loader those covers come off and the loader brackets mount there. If no loader then it is easy to remove the cover to see the clutch. You can adjust the clutch through the opening but you have to split the tractor if the clutch needs replacing.
About all you can see through the opening is the edges of the clutch parts and if the clutch and disc are moving as you push the pedal down.
Two things that are fairly common on these tractors is that if they sit a long time (especially outside) the clutch plate can rust and stick to the disk. Then when you step on the pedal it does not have enough force to pull the plate away from disk and you can not get the transmission to shift while the engine is running.
The other thing that happens is the bell crank is attached to the actuating shaft with a roll pin. Sometimes the roll pin will shear and even though the bell crank is moving the shaft does not and stepping on the pedal has no effect. Put a witness mark across the end of the shaft and the bell crank then step on the pedal and observe to make sure the witness mark does not move.
Both of these scenarios have the same effect, you can not stop the transmission gears with the engine running and the gears will grind as you try to shift into any gear. That does not sound like what you are describing. What you are describing is a clutch that is not closing down on the disk and therefor is not spinning the input shaft of the transmission. About the only thing I can think of that would cause this is all or most of the pressure plate springs in the clutch have broken and it has no clamping force on the disk.
When you step on the pedal do you feel any resistance build up as the pedal goes down? This would be in addition to the pedal return spring that is on the outside of the tractor. If in doubt take that spring off and step on the pedal, there should be at least some resistance and “spring back” from the clutch.
Check out the files section on my web site and you will find some helpful information and pictures of the clutch assembly.
http://www.harnerfarm.net/Jinma/Jinma284.html
Let us know what you find
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August 29, 2021 at 12:05 pm #49704
Thanks. I checked the roll pin, ok. Watching the plates as I press the clutch I see a very small movement apart at the bottom of the pedal but only a mm or two maybe. The PTO is running if engaged, btw. If I were working on one of my aircooled vws I would be thinking the main drive clutch is worn plumb out but I don’t hear any scraping noise. OTOH my hearing ain’t that great anymore. Any thing else I can check to isolate the problem? Oh, the clutch pedal has zero free play, is that normal?
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September 4, 2021 at 7:34 am #49711
free play should be around one inch , with that try to adjust in some free play hopefully you will get some if not it is clutch time.
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October 11, 2021 at 9:14 pm #49727
I have adjusted the pedal free play to 1 inch and ran the checks for pto clutch which was .30 go .40 nogo all three and did my best to check the main clutch adjustment which is approx 1/16 inch all round.
I am using the attached instructions from KENO tractors in Oregon which called for finger to throwout of 1/16 to 1/8″. Did not adjust any since they meet specs. Since I don’t own a 1/16″ feeler guage I used three blades .024 .025 .026 together which is close to 1/16″ (.075 where 1/16 is .0625) which is a tight fit while adding the next blade to the stack (for .102 near 3/32) is a nogo so I call that in spec.
OTOH not much changed. When the pedal goes down the throwout bearing goes forward, the levers operate and the plates move a bit apart but when pedal up nothing goes to the wheels. I can change the gears from neutral with the tractor on or off if i force it a bit but when running I hear and feel knashing of gears for a second if I shift into gear with the pedal up but it then goes into gear without the wheels moving. I don’t feel much difference with the pedal down all the way.
My thinking is that it is acting like a slush bucket, a slipping clutch that xmits a little rotation to the gear box and yet stops dead when put in gear on the output side. I can see the clutch input (flywheel0 rotating fine so I think that is the only thing physically possible if I have enough gear motion to knash gears. What have I missed here?
My other problem is being in Oklahoma where the tornadoes come roaring down the plan (two miles south of me last night) and I do not see any chinese tractor outlets around. Any idea where a Jinma shop might be near Shawnee Oklahoma? Know a price for replacing a clutch in a 200? Thank you for bearing with me on this, really.
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October 12, 2021 at 6:31 am #49728
I think affordable tractor is in Tx. they use to be a sponser of this site. I think you need to split the tractor to see what has failed.
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October 12, 2021 at 9:53 pm #49729
Yep. I engaged the PTO today and it seemed to be working, turning. Two seperate clutch plates, I realize. No help available looks like. If I ever get it split and repaired I will likely have to do it myself. Will update this thread if I ever get it done. Thanks. Ever think of increasing upload file size?
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