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I have a Nortrac 254 with Yangdong Y385 engine. The tractor was new in 2007 I have been having issues with starting as it seems the battery is low or dying, but I keep the battery charged and it still seems to drain fast when trying to start tractor. I inclined to think it is the starter. The manual states it is part number QD1315A. These are relatively hard to find but see starters QD100c3 that says fits most Nortrac 200 Series tractors. These that I have seen are gear reduction starters and would be easier on the battery, Does anyone know if these two starters are interchangable. Or is there an alternative part I can look for?. Much thanks
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I have seen that the starters on the 200 series are wired thru the key switch and that just adds to much resistance into the circuit that uses to small of gauge wire anyway. what I did was to add a starter relay to the starter. real easy just get a old school ford type take the battery lead to it and another lead to the starter where you removed the wire you moved to the relay, take the small wire and put it on the small post of the relay. where you put the key ibn the start mode it will activate the relay and put battery power to the switch. and make sure you have a good ground to the relay. should be good to good.
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Thanks for replying so fast, I haven’t been on the site for awhile but I remebered you has being pretty saavy about these tractors. When You say a old ford starter do you mean something like this? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BVRFM9MG/ref=syn_sd_onsite_desktop_0?ie=UTF8&psc=1&pd_rd_plhdr=t&aref=2OcZApT94u I am not very knowledgable about starting systems, but I can follow directions, and understand how things work for the most part.
Where and how did you mount it? I suppose somewhere where it is protected to some degree. You say have a good ground, so it would need to be bolted to a frame peice for example, or a bolt running thorugh the frame.
I think a typo in your post. Did you mean to say “When you put the key in start mode….”.
That all seems easy enough.
I did find a source for the original starter, but it wouldn’t make sense to replace it if it doesn’t fix the issue.
Thanks again. -
yeah the wire from the battery to the starter lenght is kinda determines where you can put the relay ( that is if you do not replace it). So if you can find a empty threaded bolt hole that you can mount the starter relay to that the wire will make also , that will be your ground to the base of the relay. I did not have this option I actually hose clamped the relay to the starter. and ran a wire from the base of the relay to the block for the ground. and get some connectors and battery wire that match or are a larger gauge wire that was used with the starter and go between the relay and starter . hook up the small wire that comes from the key switch to the starter off and put it on the small post of the relay. that should do it. that solved all my starting issues for many years until the key switch went bad 2 years ago. that style relay would work but look for one with a higher amp rating if you can find one .
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let me say that it is possible that what I have written about will not do you any good if indeed the starter is bad, but will make the new starter work better and possibly last longer, also as old as the tractor is at this point maybe some light lube in the moving starter parts might help too, it could be dragging causing issues.
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Okay..
David and Democracynow. I decided to replace the starter, and add in the relay switch. I found a 100amp relay, and the stater I found and the QD1315A appears to be interchangable with the QD100c3, as the starter I ordered had QD1315a/YJQD100c3 as a part replacement number. I folded some metal and made a little stand off to mount the relay on and the standoff I drilled a hole and attached with the top starter bolt when I mounted the starter. It took me a little bit to figure out that the SI terminal on the selenoid on the starter had to be “jumped ” with a wire to the terminal on ther sterter with the incoming “positive battery wire” coming from the relay. (It makes sense to me after I thought about it awhile.
Anyway, it started up and my oh my did it make a difference it how fast and strong it cranked. Really night and day difference. Very pleased with your recommendations. However I have one issue, and it has to be a wiring issue cause it all worked okay befor e I changed the starter. The problem is my voltmeter is only reading 12V where before it was close to 14 volts, when running. ISuppose I should take a voltmeter and check it but maybe I can tell you specifically what terminals I place my wires on to get a check about correctness.
(I have a voiltmeter because years ago I replace the amp guage and key switch and alternator to try to improve charging, when I was thinking the slow cranking thing was the battery charge.)
I have the Red battery cable from the battery to one terminal in the relay. A jumper red battery cable from the other terminal of the relay to the terminal on the selenoid on the starter. I have a red battery cable to the same terminal on the relay as the main battery cable comes into that goes to the alternator. As I said before, I have a small jumper wire coming from the Starter selenoid terminal that has the red battery cable “jumper” from the relay attached to the si terminal (small terminal” on the selnoid on the starter. I have two small wires into the area, one numbered #2 (Starter selenoid -big terminal – Ammeter fuse), and other wire labled #11 (Starter Selenoid Interupt Switch-Starter selenoid small terminal). The parenthesis are from a wiring diagragm I had downlaoded when I was doing the voltmeter/key/alternator modifications. The #11 wire I have attached to the relay si terminal. The #2 wire goes from the kew switch and I have placed it on the terminal of the relay that has the red cable from the battery attached. I wasn’t getting a reading on the voltmeter when I had that wire attached to the terminal of the starter selnoid when I turned the key to the first position, which is logical since current wouldn’t be going to the starter selenoid before the key was turned to “start” to engage the relay.
So I think it is either the #2 wire, or the red battery wire that goes to the aternator that I could have in the wrong position. I am not sure that the alternator isn’t producing more than 12 volts, it just that it is not showing up on the meter. I remember reading when I did the alternator change, that the alternator needs to be reved to excite the alternator to start producing more than 12 volts, but I don’t think that is the issue because I didn’t have to “rev” it before, although it did speed the increase in voltage shoing on the voltmeter.
I had toyed with the idea of a cutoff switch earlier, when I thought I might have a parasitic drain causing the battery to be weak and crank the engine slower. Nice to see that photo, I might put one in.
I know this is long, just seeing if you guys can confirm the wiring.
Thanks again. -
Jmayp;Great you improved your starter system.
Cannot help on Voltage gage discrepancy. When I modified my starting system as you did I did not notice any change in my voltage reading. My gage is very erratic anyway.
You may want to confirm 13.8-14.2 voltage readings at the battery terminals to insure the alternator is charging the battery. -
well one advantage at a volt meter over a amp meter the volt meter can be wired anywhere that is hot when the key switch is in the run position. but if I remember correctly when I took the amp meter out, the two wires it went to I put together and spliced the volt meter with them and hooked up the gauges light to the existing gauge light hot and added a better ground. but I will say that the gauge does pulse quite a bit with engine rpm and seems worse when there is no electrical load on it. Just adding a small 2 amp draw fan I hooked to the rops to blow down on the driver seems to take a lot of the pulsing out. I think you are getting close to whipping this problem.
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Okay guys, I got it solved. I worked on it tonight a little bit, and I just had to move the large alternator battery wire from the post on the relay that had the direct to battery cable to the post on the relay that originally had the direct to battery cable on it, before I put in the relay. VOltmeter showing 14 volts and it all seems good to go.
Thank you both for your help. -
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