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I need to rebuild the original valve unit for the FEL-I know that most owners go for an aftermarket unit, but this one must have been one of the “good ones” that was turned out-used extensively and just now seems to be both leaking (ordered crush washers today for the hoses) at the hose connections, and just has gotten sluggish cycling-maybe too much fluid getting by the “O” rings and seals. would like to keep the original on the tractor if it can be rebuilt. Has anyone rebuilt an original unit instead of replacing it? Is it a fairly straightforward project?
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I need to rebuild the original valve unit for the FEL-I know that most owners go for an aftermarket unit, but this one must have been one of the “good ones” that was turned out-used extensively and just now seems to be both leaking (ordered crush washers today for the hoses) at the hose connections, and just has gotten sluggish cycling-maybe too much fluid getting by the “O” rings and seals. would like to keep the original on the tractor if it can be rebuilt. Has anyone rebuilt an original unit instead of replacing it? Is it a fairly straightforward project?
“We have found the enemy….and it is us!”
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We have the replacements for the original block type valves, as far as I know there are no kits to rebuild them
Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales
“Your Jinma Parts Superstore”
http://www.affordabletractorsalesco.com -
Piece of cake. You can buy an assortment of o-rings from Harbor Freight for @ $6.00. What make, model and year tractor? Can you post a picture of your valve unit?
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Just be careful with the pressure relief valve (the one on top), it shouldn’t need any adjusting. The two thimbles opposite the joystick hold the valves in place. Sometimes the screws holding the springs on the end of the valves get loose, that may be your problem. I’m dealing with a hot water heater issue right now but I’ll post a pic and put arrows to help explain, when I get this task done.
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Hi Bob,
The valve spools are lap-fitted just like fuel injector pumps. That and ultra clean hydraulic oil is what really keeps them from leaking. If they are only slightly collecting dust and dirt you may be ok with O-rings for awhile. :unsure:
Hope your water heater issue is resolved Eric. :yes:
Account deleted.
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Much belated thanks to the responders. I’ve moved 3 times since the original post-due to wife’s health issues, and just now have been getting back to using the 284. I did rebuild the original valve shortly after the original responses came in and it is still working great. The unit has always “dropped” pretty fast, and I’m working on slowing that down a little-think the valve under the front of the seat may be the valve that can control this speed. There doesn’t seem to be a successful way to feather the valve on the down cycle-doesn’t perform the same way twice in a row so to speak! I haven’t adjusted this valve for 5 or 6 years, and when I did I remember that I thought it was frozen-almost broke it-before I remembered that there was a locking screw on the valve……got to start thinking about things before I wade into the project!! Again, thanks for the responses-great group of members :good:
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I have a 284 Jinma with a ZL20 FEL that just stopped working. It had been having an issue lifting where I would have to rev engine up to start lifting. Today it just failed to respond. Power steering and 3 point hitch still works. I am assuming that the loader control valve is the problem. Anyone have ideas of anything else that could cause this problem?
Thanks redjetster
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I seem to remember that the quick connects could fail ,and when they did they restricted the flow . I believe that most people just changed them out ,instead if trying to repair them. I guess that would be something to check first at the inlets and outlets at the pump for debris fr0m the quick connects. If all is clean I guess it would have to be the valve body. Might want to look at the connectors to see if they have any filter screens inserted in them, you just never know.
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