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I want to install a hydraulic top link. The tractor has 2 sets of remotes and valves already installed so there is no plumbing to contend with. I have seen 2 types of cylinders that seem to be used, a standard hydrailic cylinder and ones with a check valve installed. What is the difference between the two?
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Well, for one the check valve is a device designed to allow fluid to flow in one direction only. This is achieved with the aid of a seat, a ball or poppet and a spring. In the free flow direction the fluid lifts the ball of its seat against the tension of the fixed force spring. In the non-flow direction, also known as the checked direction, the fluid acts on the spring side of the ball. This forces the ball into the seat preventing the passage of fluid. For the electronics gurus, the check valve is the hydraulic equivalent of the electronic diode.
CTOA - Founder
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Both types are sold by Dalton.
The red (lower) one has pilot operated check valves which, as Hal stated (
), will only move when source pressure is applied from the control valve. They are generally used where there is spool leak-by in a worn control valve, or a pre-set must be maintained where a control valve cannot be relied upon.The black (upper one) has a swivel eye extension on the standing part which allows the cylinder barrel to clear mounting clevises or gudgeons.
The best one (not shown) would incorporate both of the above.
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Could not do without the hyd. top link since I got it. Maybe the best single thing I added. Here is a Dalton one i installed without the check valve. I run mine from one set of my rear remotes with control from the valve. The valve must hold well as I have no drifting what so ever. I have simple but good control with the rear remote valve. Heres a video link , but not sure if the link will work
Dave
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Two reads
:http://www.kepner.com/inline_d…..valves.htm
http://stores.daltonhydraulic……gories.bok
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Check Valves with close fitting pilot piston shuttle to offer dependable cylinder locking in both directions. They permit free flow from valve port to cylinder port (or to portion of circuit) through one check valve while at the same time piloting open the check valve on the other side to allow reverse flow. When pressure at the valve ports is removed both check valves close and lock against movement in either direction by preventing reverse flow.
Got it
A standard “one way” check valve is what most people are used to.I want to install a Cat.2 hydraulic toplink to use with a quick hitch. It is a pain huge pain trying to line up the top connection each time I want to change implements. (hope I have all my retrofits completed before spring)
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Bluenoser wrote:
It is a pain huge pain trying to line up the top connection each time I want to change implements.
Oh that is so true
, that's why I went that way too. It should be noted that you cannot use the cylinder with the double pilot check valves in combination with the/a float function control valve.
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You will have to use the cat. 2 cylinder because of the pin size (unless you bush it).
I think cat. 2 top link pins are 7/8″ or 1″, and cat. 1 pins are 3/4″. I would stick with the cat. 2 cylinder because the cat. 2 implements can get heavier, plus you've got a lot more power too – that's why the pins are bigger.
I had a 1-3/4″ x 7/8″ top link cylinder, worked fine for awhile until I found the “weak link”, which was the weldment on the rod eye – pulled it right apart. Have since installed a 2″ x 1-3/8″ cylinder with no problems, but I wish I had purchased the Dalton unit with the eye extension.
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Yes the Cat.2 top uses 1″ pins. For my Cat.1 implements I can use a bushing to hook up (3/4″) Most Cat.2 hydraulic top links use a 3″ hydraulic shaft to the top link end balls. I can see that clearence is needed to attach to the tractor bracket (extension). Will see what is outthere, what is available locally and what I can build.
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I do not think it a good idea. The top link will not push down in a straight line, it will tilt the attachment points back and forth (easier implement hooh up). With a post hole digger on the end, I think you might bend the auger. To push down, the lift arms would have to apply down pressure from the tractor hydraulic system, your tractor would have to come with that feature (or be modified) to apply down pressure on the 3 pt. hitch.
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Retired wrote:
the ground around here is hard as rock in the summer.
If you are digging in caliche (a form of hardpan) you can saturate it with a lime slurry to soften it up, somewhat.
I have used this method with some success with the dozer. Where are you located?As for the post hole digger with the hydraulic top link, Bluenoser is correct.
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, but I do know I like making life easier. What size shaft is the clyinder you used? Most cat.1 seem to be 2″ and cat.2 are 3″. The JM604 has a cat. 2 hitch. Seems huge to me if you look at the OEM top link.
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