3pt. lift arms jinma 354

While setting on the tractor there is a knob right down in front of the seat on the front of the 3 point lift box.  That knob diverts oil from the 3 point to the remotes.  Is the knob open part way or screwed all the way in?  

Thanks for the tip on the knob, don't have any problem with my 3 point or FEL, but could not figure out what the knob was for.

Len

What year is it? In 2007 there was a problem with the hydraulic filter head having a plastic check valve that would break and plug things up..

I agree with Tinbender.  I sounds like the dreaded hyd filter problem. 

For the other poster the knob has really 3 functions.  All the way closed and oil is sent to the remotes when the handle is pulled up.  Then when you start to open it oil is sent the the 3 point lift.  The further you open it the faster the 3 point will “fall” when you push the handle forward.  There is a set screw in it so you can lock it when you get it set where you want it.    

In this picture #63 is the knob and #64 is the set screw.

Peter, some other possibilities:

What hydraulic oil are you using?  If you are in cold weather, AW32 seems to work best.  If you have a higher viscosity oil it may result in your problem.  If you are using some other “universal” fluid then you should change it out.

Have you changed your hydraulic filter recently?  A dirty, or too-fine a filtration will result in excessive pressure drop to the pump inlet, and the pump won't pump enough.  As I recall, 50 micron is the recommended OEM filter rating.

It would be helpful if you updated your profile so that we knew where you lived.

Prairie Dog aka Mike

I too have a 2007 354 with y-485 and are battling the slop 3 point arms.  Where is the plastic check valve located and wahts the fix? 

I meant slow three point “not slop”

It is in the hydraulic filter housing (what your filter screws into). You can purchase a new one from the dealers listed on the top of this page or get one from NAPA. The factory ones should be safe as this problem only involved a short run in 2007. I'd either get one from a dealer and get a few filters while I'm at it or get an aftermarket from NAPA with a filter, then you can get your replacements from them.

A couple more things. There is (or was in my 2006 '354) a screen filter on the suction line just inside the tank. Make sure it's not plugged or collapsed – it's pretty chintzy. Also, make sure you don't use the 10 micron filter, I think the correct one is 140 micron (something like that, anyhow). And draining my sump was a messy job, there's no drain plug, I removed the banjo bolt on the suction line and let the stuff pour out.

354, 3pth, I use ATF for the hyd. better than original fluid. Arms lift slow in cold weather on startup no matter what fluid. To get arms up quickly just raise your loader bucket, put 3pth hitch in lift position then lower your bucket, 3pth will come right up. Time you get to work with it the fluid generally is warmed up & works fine

ablejones

ablejones wrote: 

I use ATF for the hyd. better than original fluid.

FWIW, not a good idea. ATF (any type) is formulated with friction modifiers to work with friction discs and brake bands – not desirable in power hydraulic systems. Plus, it's more expensive that AW HYDRAULIC OIL.

Bob Rooks wrote: “FWIW, not a good idea. ATF (any type) is formulated with friction
modifiers to work with friction discs and brake bands – not desirable in
power hydraulic systems. Plus, it's more expensive that AW HYDRAULIC
OIL.”

And I agree. ATF is the wrong stuff for the job.  Some types of ATF are much higher detergent than AW hyd oil. ATF +4 (any brand) is a full synthetic that just might find it's way out through those Chinese seals.