50 hour re-torque

I assume that what you are writing about is the compression release, some tractors this is a tricky thing to remove and restore to where it needs to be. Before you start to remove it look over it closely , If I remember right the is a cotter pin that needs to be removed on a lever on the rear of the valve cover which separates the linkage from the compression releases rod that compresses the exhaust valves. I have only done this once and it has been a few years back so I hope I go it right.   

ok I have heard of tractors that had conflicts in making linkages line up and work and not hooking them up. But I am pretty sure about what you are writing about as being the compression release. I suppose that once you get the valve cover off you could try to figure a way to do away with it and plug up the hole, It would make access easier in the future. Is there a bolt on the lever that you could remove then slide the valve cover to the rear over the valve release  rod , it has been to long I can not remember exactly.

Mine is the same way, an unused compression release. And I'm really late doing the re-torque as it's sitting at around 95 hours right now. Hey, I talked about it the other day with the friend that helped assemble it.

yea I know but look at it this way a retorque now and the bonus of setting your valves easily or possibly  a head gasket replacement later with all the water issues that go along with it. yea that should do it. Is it done yet?

I think most of the engines have a reusable rubber gasket on the valve cover.

Two-Tone, Is there no resistance or very little resistance? I do remember when putting the tractor together and checking the valve adjustment from the factory (way,way off) I was surprised how little pressure it took to activate the compression release. I could do it easily with my thumb.

Most likely in a month or two. I need to finish some other projects first and wait for this month long heatwave to be over with. Then I'll do the re-torque, change the gear oil and hydraulic fluid, and the rubber coated seals on the steering ram and hit the grease fittings again.

I read the compression release cable was incompatible with the shuttle shift mechanism.  You should see a small hole in the dash on the lower left side where the compression mechanism handle should be.  I simply removed the lever, spring and all parts inside the valve cover of the compression release at the 50 hour.  That was 120 hours ago and all is well.

I do not recall exactly but it was obvious when you see it.  I believe you have to remove the compression mechanism to get to all the head bolts, so I just did not put mine back on.  As I remember it is a lot like the 4 wheel drive ball bearings a lot of grease holding things in place while you try to get it back together, not worth the trouble for something that serves no purpose

no it does not function without the cable in place to actuate it

with that said it might be possible to create linkage or a  cable to make it work. I use mine to top off the oil filter after a oil change, I find that it does not do much good as a start assist in cold weather , but to each his own ideas.