Alternator/Keyswitch/Voltmeter Replacement

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    • December 15, 2015 at 12:44 am #45710
      jmayo
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        Not particularly knowledgeable in tractor mechanics, but willing to learn. Attached file on tractor alternator replacement project. Problems?? or comments

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      • December 15, 2015 at 3:09 pm #45712
        Bob Rooks
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          Glad you upgraded the wiring. Lots of people don’t. Sorry I can’t help you with the flashers.

          Account deleted.

        • December 15, 2015 at 5:30 pm #45713
          DavidPrivett
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            where are you located I have something that might find the missing hot(or in this case not hot)

          • December 15, 2015 at 11:55 pm #45714
            jmayo
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              I am in Kansas. I probably won’t really have time to fool around with it till Thursday, but I plan to plug the regulator back in and check wires #8 and #9 that were disconnected from the old alternator, and taped off. Thanks

            • December 16, 2015 at 9:03 am #45728
              DavidPrivett
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                yea that is a little to far , if all else fails you could provide a new hot to what is not getting power now, just remember to fuse it a little more than you think your demand might be.

              • December 17, 2015 at 4:23 pm #45729
                jmayo
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                  Well, got the flashers working. There are 5 female recepticles, where the regulator was removed. The top receptacle is where the flashers are connected. Just ran a jumper from that receptacle to the ground. I believe this is all the same circuit that is fused by the 7.5amp fuse.

                  Thanks for suggestions.
                  Note: with this new alternator, I did not change to a smaller diameter pulley, and have over 14 volts on the meter without having to rev up the engine. (It starts at 12 then gradually climbs to 14 volts within 15 to 20 seconds or so)

                • December 20, 2015 at 9:07 am #45730
                  oldfart2
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                    You may find that the battery won’t charge property with the lights and other stuff on, especially at low engine rpm.

                  • December 21, 2015 at 9:23 am #45731
                    jmayo
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                      Question. Wouldn’t the charging of the battery be dependant on the voltage being produced? If 14 volts is being delivered, that is higher than 12 volts (battery) doesn’t that excess voltage (flow) to the battery? (Simplistic, I know). If the lights and all accessories are on, and the voltage remains above 12.?, wouldn’t the battery charge? I will turn everything on and see if voltage drops too low.

                    • December 21, 2015 at 10:26 am #45732
                      oldfart2
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                        True a voltage over 12.8 would prevent the battery from discharging, but you really need a voltage at least in the mid 13 volt range to charge the battery. You have taken a lot out of the battery, just to start it, at 13 volts you would have to run it for a long period of time to recharge the battery. The mid 13 to 14.0 volts will give you the fasted recharge, without damage to the battery. Hope I haven’t given any bad info here.

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