- This topic has 35 replies, 2 voices, and was last updated 5 years, 7 months ago by
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maybe I am wrong on this but it should have had two battery’s either 12 or 24 volt. two would take care of the problem which I think is the oil in the lifting systems and trans. adding to much load when cold ,guess you could include engine oil also. but no room even if I wanted to add a second battery. I just ordered a port plug so I can wire the heaters together on a common mounted receptacle for a extension cord. Bob would you think one hour of heating should make a difference. the battery heater is 80 watt the block heater is 600 watt.
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Is the block heater the tank type? Then yes, probably. Depends on ambient temps. Are you using multi-vis hydraulic and engine oil? I use ISO AW 32/46/68 hydraulic oil in my equipment and never a problem when very cold here, like in the 20’s. I would leave the battery heater on all the time you aren’t using it in very cold weather.
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Hello, BOB. do you have any idea what the average variable sheave type cvt pulley ratio is? reason I ask on the bobcat 500 the engine side sheave pulley half shattered the other day.(parts no longer available) when all has been going so good with it. I am thinking about making it a chain drive between the engine and the jack shaft ,fixed speed ,so I need to keep it slow for power but not painfully slow. Just trying to get it good the first time around. any thoughts?
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I don’t understand when you say parts are unavailable. You can get them at Walmart. I had a CVT “Varimatic Drive” in my ’49 Cushman scooter.
Simple search turned up this: https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-d&q=varimatic+belt+drive
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I talked to bobcat and also checked on their parts website and the parts show NLA and the parts yards that I checked do not have them parts either. the crank is 1-1/2 inches with 3/8 keyway belt is 3/4 thick and 1-3/4 wide . The original variable pulley dia. is approx. 9 inches. If you got any ideas let me know before I start modifying please.
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The hydro pump is run off the flywheel direct and the wheels get power from the engine crank thru a hydro operated piston that operates variable speed pulley that belts to a jackshaft. I looked at the dingo it is hydrostatic trans. or I missed the pulley system I will look again now I was kinda rushed before..
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That was the EARLY Dingo’s I believe.
“thru a hydro operated piston that operates variable speed pulley that belts to a jackshaft.” – that’s where you lost me.
Have I referred you to here before? http://www.skidsteerforum.com/DesktopDefault.aspx?tabid=54&frmView=ShowForum&ForumID=1
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Yes you have sent me thru skid steer forum and I joined that group but there is not much there with the skid steers of this age from what I have seen this model was first made in 1964 the end production date I have not been able to find out. What I have found out is that this hydro operated speed control pulley is a weak spot in the design. It might be easier to call me so maybe we can get on the same page my cell is 727 421 7072 I am on eastern time.
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Ditto David. It sounds like you have almost exhausted all the methods to approach this repair economically . Good luck.
Perchance is your drive system the same as a model 1818 Case?
https://cdn-assets.colemanequip.com/specsheets/1818.pdf
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Wow. #60 chain is what’s in my 40 HP Mustang chaincase.
I posed that question on another forum and got this response. Just thinking some of the parts might be interchangeable, or useful.
https://partstore.casece.com/us/parts-search.html#epc::mr54964ar292904
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yeah and I am gonna get the series 60H chain too. it takes about another 1000 lbs of force , a bit over 9000 lbs. gonna do weldable hubs to the sprockets and use set collars opposite the hubs and weld them on also hopefully that will be that. Agri-Supply best price around for this stuff and I looked a lot.
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Heah BOB I got the skid steer going , funny the old belt system pulleys ID was so worn the new chain drive is hugely quieter, I had to add .015 shim stock between crank and new chain hub to take out the beaten out slop but the speed turned out good with 2 to 1 all I need to do is add a idler sprocket to take up a little slack for future wear adjustment and it will be done again till the next time. there is always a next time.
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let me ask your opinion over a 2o or so inch span of unsupported chain how much defection should there be in the<span style=”display: inline !important; float: none; background-color: #ffffff; color: #333333; font-family: Georgia,’Times New Roman’,’Bitstream Charter’,Times,serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: left; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;”> # 60 </span> chain for slack?
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Yeah, that was kind of hard to follow. :wacko:
I found this excellent tutorial on chain tension and alignment. Also, depending on your application, you may need to be aware of a couple of things: There are half-links available, and chain pullers and breakers. These are great tools for installing chains. I have these myself and would be lost without them.
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Yes, it depends on ………. several things. Cleanliness, fit class of thread, and temperature of materials. “Green is recommended for locking preassembled fasteners, e.g. electrical connectors and set screws. The product is categorized as medium-to-high-strength for wicking. It is also available in a liquid form, cures in 24 hours and can be removed with heat and hand tools”.
So I’m going to say that the wicking should be good for no more than 5/16″ – 3/8″ on a made up fastener that has been warmed.
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I’m just guessing at the best case scenario. I really don’t know, but if the fastener has a head on it, it likely won’t get past that. Also thinking it isn’t intended for very large fasteners.
https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/sg/en/product/threadlockers/loctite_290.html
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