Forum › Forums › Tractor Operation And Maintenance › Brake Adjustment
- This topic has 27 replies, 2 voices, and was last updated 6 years, 4 months ago by Bob Rooks.
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June 19, 2018 at 9:22 am #47950
Trying to adjust brakes on Yuchai Doze and oil came out of adjusting screw . Also when I move dozer there is oil coming out of a hole on top of brake housing. Are these scenarios correct. Shouldn’t the brakes be dry and where could the oil be coming from??
Arthur Ordoyne
985-803-0851
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June 19, 2018 at 11:48 am #47951
There are drain plugs in the bottom of steering clutch/brake housings. These should be removed periodically to inspect for the presence of oil. If the oil is 140 weight, the final drive seal is leaking. If the oil is 90 weight, then the transmission seal is leaking. Check the oil level in the final drives and transmission to see which is low. Yes, the steering clutches and brakes are the dry type. No doubt your brake bands are saturated with oil, which would lead you to believe they are out of adjustment.
What year is your dozer, and how many hours on it?
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June 20, 2018 at 1:56 pm #47953
No feedback??
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June 21, 2018 at 5:29 am #47955
Bob,, After draining brake compartment I feel that it was not oil but a combination of water and break pad dust. I will need to change break pads. It seems as though I will have to drop tracks and pull the gear !! Is there an easier way to change break pads??
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June 21, 2018 at 9:47 am #47956
What year is your dozer, and how many hours on it?
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June 21, 2018 at 5:11 pm #47957
I really do not know!! I bought with a burnt motor and 68 hours on meter!! The burnt motor was mfg in 2003!! Bought a new motor that was mfg in 2013!! Undercarriage is almost brand new!! Took off cover on right side to let dry out after draining water!! Question is do you have to drop track and remove gear housing to change brakes?? Will see if brake will grab after drying !!
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June 21, 2018 at 10:17 pm #47958
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June 21, 2018 at 10:19 pm #47960
Yes, you will have to drop a track and remove the final drive assembly to gain access to the steering clutch compartment.
Picture shows steering clutch with brake drum removed.
Do you have the owner’s and parts manuals?
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June 23, 2018 at 3:40 pm #47961
Apparently this is not a high priority. I will treat it accordingly.
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July 24, 2018 at 4:06 pm #48056
hello Bob, Sorry about dropping out of conversation but I have serious health issues that stopped me in my tracks!!! My problem with dozer is worse than I thought at first!! the clutch will not disengage and could not get it to turn right nor left. in process of tearing down and don’t have a clue how to start!!! I dropped the track and took off drive gear. will drain oil and will attempt to get down to picture you sent above . how do I get the clutch assembly out?? do you have a picture of that part torn out..
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July 25, 2018 at 1:59 pm #48059
Sorry to hear about your health issues Arthur, wishing you a speedy recovery and continued good health.
Sorry, but the only other pic I have is this one, but I think you are already this far into it.
Do you have the parts and owners manuals? I can email you copies if you don’t. They are very helpful.
In that pic the swing frame and cross shaft still have to be dropped, and the saddlebag either raised or removed. Everything you will need to get to is still inside. Can you provide a pic of your progress?
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July 25, 2018 at 6:03 pm #48063
I’ll send pictures in the morning
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July 25, 2018 at 10:32 pm #48064
And you will also have to remove the ROPS.
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July 26, 2018 at 3:06 am #48065
What is the ROPS!!
Also, once U get it down to brake drum how do you get to clutch plates
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July 26, 2018 at 3:11 am #48066
I have the parts manual and book on another dozer that is a Nortrac. Very similar!!
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July 26, 2018 at 10:15 am #48067
What is the ROPS!! Also, once U get it down to brake drum how do you get to clutch plates
ROPS is the Roll Over Protection Structure (the roof).
Remove the brake drum (steering clutch hub), the clutch plates are inside.
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July 27, 2018 at 4:08 pm #48069
Thanks so much!! it’s 105 Degrees over here and struggling to get anything done.
can make it till about lunchtime then I’m done. hopefully it’ll cool down just a little.
can’t take this heat!!
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July 27, 2018 at 8:30 pm #48070
I hear ya Arthur. Don’t know where you are, but here in the Seattle area is seems like we’re getting record breaking heat weekly. Going to be in the mid 90’s all weekend.
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July 31, 2018 at 2:34 am #48082
Ok Bob, I loosened all the nuts on the final drive bur it will not come off. It seems as though the brake drum wants to come off too.
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July 31, 2018 at 10:10 am #48083
Looking at the manual, it looks like it is held on to shaft #17 with the #23 nut, so yes I think it will come off with the final drive assembly. It will probably be difficult since some of the clutch discs are rusted. And be sure the brake band is backed off and the adjustment bolts are backed out.
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August 1, 2018 at 9:41 am #48084
The diagrams leave much to the imagination!! Once you tearvit down once you know for sure then. I was going by picture U posted with final transmission removed and brake drum still on dozer!! I removed the threaded bushing hoping to get that bushing on swing frame to move outward to get final drive passed the ends of studs!! Any thoughts on this!!
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August 1, 2018 at 9:42 am #48085
:yahoo: I will send pictures today
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August 1, 2018 at 1:06 pm #48086
I will send pictures today
Excellent, because I’m not sure what you’re referencing.
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August 1, 2018 at 9:21 pm #48087
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August 2, 2018 at 1:19 pm #48089
Ok well this makes more sense. Thanks forcthe picture. Here are 3 pictures of where im at.
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August 2, 2018 at 1:23 pm #48090
Can’t seem to send pictures. Too big
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August 2, 2018 at 6:13 pm #48092
Hear they R
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August 2, 2018 at 7:35 pm #48096
Too bad the pictures won’t open up, but I think I see where you’re at.
You still need to drop the cross shaft, wishbone, and track fame and move them forward out of the way so you have full access to the final drive/steering clutch assembly. It would be a big help to move the track out of the way, and use a transmission jack with right angle adapters to bolt to the sprocket flange. That will make the whole assembly mobile.
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