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It's used but very little, shows no wear what so ever. It has a single cylinder for the boom swing with a stop bar on the right hand side. I've been told the problem with this type unit is operator mishap from the 3pt raising. Will the under the seat valve stop this or will I have to fabricate a manual position lock. This unit has mostly sat. I figure I'll have to find out how to flush the hydraulic fluid. The fluid in my Foton is 32 wt. where most tractors run 46wt. To be honest I don't even know which remotes to use or which line on the hoe is incoming and which is out going. Right now the hoe is on my trailer. My tractors at the lake property and it will be a couple weeks when I make the final mow for the season before I'll haul the tractor home to be able to lift it off the trailer. Larry.
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If you have the rigid top link the hoe won't go anywhere. It will be as solid as a frame mount.
There is no such thing as 32 weight oil. You have (hopefully) ISO AW 32 Hydraulic Oil which is in fact equivalent to 10w. ISO AW 46 Hydraulic Oil is equivalent to 20w. But make no mistake in thinking any 10w or 20w oil will do. The AW 32 and AW 46 hydraulic oils are miscible, but not with UTF or similar formulation.
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Your right Bob, I use ISO32 as per Tommy's instructions and universal is ISO46. Your saying if I use the rigid toplink it won't raise up. I know if I use my drawbar trailer hitch with the rigid toplink I can stand on the back of the trailer and it will raise. I had a guy send me a couple of articles where guys got pinned to the ROPS and were seriously injured from raise up with a 3pt hoe. That's what got me thinking about it. Also do you have any suggestions on how to flush all the lines and cylinders, this hoe runs off the tractor hydraulics. Larry.
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Larry wrote:
“………and universal is ISO46.”
No. There is nothing “universal” about AW 46. It is what it is. UTF is an entirely different formulation with a completely different additive package in the base stock. It also does not carry an AGMA rating like AW 46 does. Personally, I use ISO AW 32/46/68 multi grade hydraulic oil in all of my equipment. Caterpillar TO-4 is a good example of a universal oil.
Anyway, yes, if you use the non-adjustable rigid top link the hoe cannot be moved, even with the lift arms, up or down. It attaches to two places under the seat of the hoe and pins directly into the tractor's top link attachment point. It should be noted however, that you can still lift the rear of the tractor off the ground. I would speculate that all of the accidents attributed to three-point-hitch mounts are due to novice operators. Any time you push down with the bucket, boom, or stick you will get a proportionately opposite reaction.
E = mc2: it's not just a good idea, it's the law.
Below is a pic of a rigid top link.
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Thank you for the pic of the rigid toplink! I've never seen one before it's not what I thought you were talking about. I thought you were talking about the adjustable toplink. I'll definitely be looking into that. On the fluid I was going on what Tommy told me. I had a five gallon jug of universal for the old Jubilee, and he told me not to use it in the Foton because it is aw46 and I need aw32. The return filter sounds like a good idea. I would still feel better if I could flush them out. Could I break the return line and flush them that way. Larry.
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I have undying respect for Tommy and all the practical knowledge he shares to Chinese tractor owners and wannabe owners, however, we have had our differences of opinions in the past and there is a vast difference in our knowledge bases.
If you have Universal Tractor Fluid (UTF) do not use it in the Foton. Not because it is rated ISO 46, but because it has a “universal” rating. If it is not labeled “universal”, “UTF” or “THF” anywhere, yes you can use it. There are people that have careers knowing about lubricating, hydraulic, and specialty oils. I wouldn't try to second guess them. Adding to what I said before, the two oils you have are miscible. You can go ahead and do the bucket thing but there is no advantage in doing so. The 10µ return filter will do what you seek plus it will keep any debris from the hoe (O-ring and cup seal pieces) from entering the tractor's hydraulic system at any future point. I can only offer advice. You may do what you will.
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Larry wrote:
“Thank you for the pic of the rigid toplink! I've never seen one before it's not what I thought you were talking about. I thought you were talking about the adjustable toplink.”
Well, I could have sworn I said:
“Anyway, yes, if you use the non-adjustable rigid top link the hoe cannot be moved, even with the lift arms, up or down.”
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So far I haven't been able to find a rigid top link. Agri-Supply, Rural King, Tractor Supply, and Northern Tool didn't have it. I called Brand MFG. and he said they quit making the hoes when the cheap Chinese hoes hit the market and don't have anything left other than a couple of replacement buckets. I looked at Liberty,Bradco, wooodmaxx, and Timco websites and there's come with the hoe for that hoe. Any Ideas?? Larry.
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LiTW backhoes sell them but I think you will have to get the whole lift package just to get the top link. They would also be fairly easy to fabricate from 1″ x 2″ x 1/4″ rectangular tube. If you could post a high resolution pic of your hoe's three-point hitch points I will make a fabrication drawing for you.
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Ok, here it is. You will have to transfer punch and drill the holes to suit. Also, there are no dimensions included because I don't know what I'm working with. You will have to level up the hoe to get dimensions. Material is solid mild steel bar stock, gussets are 5/16″ mild steel. 1/4″ fillet welds at all abutments.
One thing about being retired that I have noticed is that my drawings are getting more sloppy. Oh well, it is what it is.
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Sorry I just pulled 38 hours Mon. thru Tues. into this morning and just saw your pic. Looks good. I'll have to figure out the length out to the top link, the rest should be easy. The bolts going thru the hoe will take the bulk of the pressure. I'll use grade 8 or 9. I've got a mig welder and drill bits large enough, be a matter of getting the steel stock. Thank You! Larry.
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I cut the gussets and welded the 1 1/2″ x 1 1/2″ bar and gussets on the main block. I pulled the trailer around front and brought the tractor and chains. I can't get it off the trailer. The loader won't reach far enough. I'm not sure what I'm going to do yet. I may have to find a chain hoist put a beam across the garage rafters and lift it that way. My garage is a steel building with steel rafters. I think it will hold. The guy I bought it from put it on the trailer with a big Case loader and I thought I'd be able to get it off-WRONG.
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Well the rafters won't do it. They're not 10 gage like the side frames. My neighbor has an old 8n with a loader we might try getting both on each side and chain lift it enough to get the trailer out. That will be next weekend if the weather holds. I work tonight and will do 40hrs in 2 1/2 days and work our shop rest of week, at 58 I'm starting to feel it.
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I'll bet, but keeping busy also keeps you going. My neighbors 90 and still brush hogs and cuts wood etc. – he wouldn't be here today if he hadn't kept busy. The weathers terrible so haven't messed with the hoe. I found a heavy come-a-long and I think I'll use a big tree lime and go that route. If that won't work I know a guy who has a winch set up. I'll have to haul everything over there, but I'll try the come-a-long here first. I had my tires loaded with antifreeze and Saturday the temps warmed up so the antifreeze being cold put a moisture line on the tires and they short loaded me on one side. I called them and the guy got kind of crappy with me – he says how would you know how much is in them, so I told him how I knew. Of coarse they are out of the anti freeze so I'm suppose to check back in a couple of weeks. One of the other workers took a mallet and tapped the tire and told him they owed me antifreeze.
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Tinbinder that sounds like the best plan. I finally got the hoe off the trailer today!!!! I pulled the trailer parallel to a tree and side chained the hoe so it wouldn't swing sideways. I pulled the tractor as close as I could and chained the hoe to the fel. I put boards in front of the tractor so it wouldn't swing into the radiator(just in case). It worked perfectly the only thing I had to do was ratchet strap an outrigger to the fel arm to pull it level. I'll hook it up to the tractor tomorrow so I can cut the length of the rigid top link. Today's a good day!!
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The rigid top link is exactly like your diagram on page 1. The main block is 2 1/4 x 3 1/2 x 7 solid steel and the bar is 2 x 2 with gussets just like the diagram. I had the hoe sitting level on blocks and hooked the lift arms up to get the length measurement of the horizontal bar. I bought grade 8 bolts but ended up going with 3/4 x 4 1/2 pins for quick attachment. It's solid, no movement what so ever. I do have a quick hich, and saw thats what you use, but haven't tried adapting to it yet.
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lol! Ya, I know. We went to the property for the day to put the hoe in the barn and repair the gate where a deer hit it. That sucker hit it so hard it busted the concrete around the posts. Ended up working all day and I still had all the tools and stuff to unload so once was all I was going to try. Didn't think it would be that small! I'll try again when the wife is thru with the computer, can't do it on the smart tv.
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No wait, it's in the upper left corner. I think you over did it a tad.
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