busted final drive housing

Sorry to hear that. What was he doing when it broke?

Those can be repaired with welding or brazing at a good machine shop.

Did you buy the dozer new and how long ago?

Two years? Yep, you're out of warranty.

Sounds like the track was over tightened and then got a rock in the sprocket. I think your best bets for those final drive parts are going to be Circle-G, Northern Tool, or Yuchai directly. There may be others.

Good luck.

Sounds like your dozer is down for the count. If the bevel gear case is cracked, that's going to be time consuming and expensive to replace. Consider taking it to a machine shop. The ROPS, both saddlebags, both final drives, steering clutches and brakes, swing frames and tracks, and dozer wishbone will have to be removed. In short, it has to be stripped, and the bevel gear case will have to be removed from the transmission. I have never heard of this component failing before. You are going to have to go deep into the machine to repair it. Hopefully, I'm misunderstanding you and the required repairs will be more simple.

Ok, I see the part you're talking about now. Never heard of that casting failing either, but you will still have to drop the wishbone, track, and track frame for that side plus the ROPS, saddlebag, and final drive.

Wow. Bummer. I've been all day figuring out cement mixer PTO (2) linkage. Both PTO's have forward, neutral, and reverse. It was a basket case. A jigsaw puzzle with half the pieces missing.

Wow, hope there wasn't cement in it waiting for you!

Happy April fools Bob

Hahaha. Nope. The drum has been empty for at least forty years. I had to chase the critters out of the transmission and PTO.

There had been a catastrophic failure at some point, as the PTO was hanging by the output shaft and all six PTO mounting studs were broken off in the transmission, and the PTO shift linkages looked like spaghetti.

At least the engine runs. Also doing a 12 volt conversion on it from a 6 volt positive ground system.

The weather hasn't been my friend either.

I wanted to upgrade the Ford starter Bendix to the new enclosed spring style but it's like 1/16″ larger diameter so it won't fit between the flywheel and clutch housing. Waiting for a new “old style” Bendix to arrive. Meanwhile, prepping the cab interior to paint.

The first run in 55 years. Did I post this before?

Sounds good. With the shiny blue paint it looks like you rebuilt that cylinder head. Was that an inspection, or did you lap the valves and clean things up?

Originally I couldn't get it started so I popped the head to inspect for cracked cylinders, bent valves, etc. I bead blasted the head while I had it off. Come to find out it wouldn't start because of a 1″ vacuum line that was eaten away by the critters. It was also the first time I overhauled an updraft carb without using gaskets. Used super grey RTV – so far, so good. Trying to find a rebuilt, or new, Holley 659H with a power jet is impossible.

Good to hear.

Unfortunately I can’t post pictures from my phone, but if you go to my FB page all the data and pics are there.

This is the brake mod. The sheave take up has 2x ratio over the mechanical linkage. It works very well for me. It's pretty cramped installing it though.

I don't remember the length of the wire rope offhand, so I would only swage one end with a thimble and use cable clamps with a thimble on the other end for a rough adjustment of the length. Fine tuning the length is accomplished with the eyebolt.

You're welcome. Good luck.  It will probably go easier for you since to don't have the FEL option hoses in the way.