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Hello All,
My Rhino 184 isn't charging the battery. I've put a multimeter on the alternator while running up the revs and it shows only the static battery voltage. I'm considering an automobile alternator recommended by Napa, (213-4011SW) but it has an internal voltage regulator. I'm not to sharp about electrical systems; can I use an alternator with an internal regulator on my tractor?
Thanks,
Dean
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Yes – I use a Delco 12Si two-wire internally regulated alternator on my Jinma in order to get the higher output amperage to run additional lighting. It was almost a direct replacement, I only had to modify the mounting bracket slightly. The Jinma pulley swapped right onto it and all. I replace the stock fan belt with a link belt from Harbor Freight and it’s been great ever since.
The Delco alternator has a higher output than the Jinma ammeter could handle so I just mounted a voltmeter in the dash and let it go at that. I also disconnected the stock regulator. Very simply mod and well worth doing in my opinion.
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Dean,
The 1,900 r/m they are referring to is the alternator speed, and depending on the pulley ratio could mean 900 to 1,000 r/m on your engine tach. You can always install a smaller alternator pulley to spin it up faster. The 10Si and 12Si have the same footprint as the OEM alternator and will fit directly with no modification unless you have the fan shroud.
It should be noted that both alternators are available with two or three wire leads (which translates to three or four leads if you include the heavy gauge positive wire). You want the two wire one. (Field, Sense, Output)
I installed a 72 amp Delco 12Si alternator and it works great. I highly recommend the model that pulls cooling air from the rear – it has a solid faced fan. You will be replacing your ammeter with a voltmeter, and installing higher capacity wiring. You will also remove your old voltage regulator from the system.
The OEM alternator is rated at around 14 amps max., so it barely keeps up with thje lights, let alone replenish the charge.
I have the alternator that I removed from the TY395 engine in my dozer that's available to you. It has about 100 hours on it and the regulator is included.
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Thanks Bob, right now the OEM alternator (as you know) has output, field and ground, with the field coming from the voltage regulator. Obviously the output on the 12Si is self explanatory, but since the OEM regulator is designated for a cardboard box, I'm not sure of the proper way to wire up the rest of the system, for example the two leads going in and out of the voltage regulator. Sorry about the ignorance, but I don't want to fry a brand new alternator! And thanks for the offer of your alternator/regulator. I've heard a lot of good stuff on the Delco so I think I'll put it on for now.
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Ok, I have to clarify the “no modifications necessary” statement with the fan shroud. I meant the alternator fan shroud, which not all tractors have.
If someone has a Jinma wiring schematic I can mark up with the necessary changes, I'd be happy to do it. Make the file as large as possible and post it here or PM me.
PS: I'll need to know the output amp rating of the new alternator.
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I need to do the same thing, Tin. I have the inverter and the pole saw, I just need to make a mount for the inverter on the tractor. I can't for the life of me find a place to mount it permanently out of the weather without it requiring about 30 feet of battery cable, so I'm thinking about just making a bracket of some sort up front by the battery where I can hang the inverter when I want to use it. I can mount some welder lead sockets under the battery tray and plug the inverter in to them. I'll get to it one of these days.
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