Forum › Forums › Tractor/Dozer Engines › Cylinder head bolts / valve adjustment
- This topic has 23 replies, 12 voices, and was last updated 12 years, 1 month ago by horse farmer.
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April 6, 2011 at 6:38 am #30253
Hi all,
I have a 2008 Foton TE254 with 300 hrs on it. Is it important to do the cylinder head bolt torqe check and valve adjustment? if so when and how? thanks. I have a Laidong 1.5 litre 3 cyl 25 hp engine.
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April 6, 2011 at 6:51 am #31947
I would say do it now and do your fluids if you have not changed them out.I do not have your specs for valve clearence and head torque.hopefully some else has them
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April 6, 2011 at 9:24 am #31948
The recommended time for head re-torque is 50 hrs, so if you don't know if that was done I'd sure do it now. As for the valve adjustment we found three valves out of adjustment, two VERY loose before starting the tractor for the first time. Like clutch adjustment these are things that should be standardized and easily repeatable at the factory but for some bizarre reason they are not.
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April 6, 2011 at 10:01 am #31949
Thanks for the advice, I have the specs for the valves and head bolts, so I guess its time to have a look inside. Any advice on the process for valve adjustment or head bolt torqueing? It will be my first go at it.
Thanks
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April 6, 2011 at 10:10 am #31950
There was a post on this very same subject a week or two ago, it should be easy enough to find.
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April 6, 2011 at 10:38 am #31951
thanks Tinbender i'll check it out
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April 6, 2011 at 10:42 am #31952
It's under “Tractor operation and maintenance”, page two, March 16th. I tried but failed to link it.
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April 6, 2011 at 12:09 pm #31953
Ive reviewed the posting, thanks.
Ive got a couple of questions about my Laidong KM385BT engine.
1. is the valve cover gasket re-useable?
2. do you remove the cyl head bolts and reinstall and then torque, or just click them as is?
3. is there anything to remove to check the valve clearances?
thanks guys, this info is very helpful to a newbie.
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April 6, 2011 at 12:23 pm #31954
#1 I would not reuse it.
#2 Break them loose and re-torque one at a time. If your manual does not show a sequence for torquing the bolts I would start at the center and work my way out, one on one side in front of center, then diagonally to one rear of center, etc.
#3 Nothing to remove, but you will have to watch the valves as you turn the engine to find TDC. Remember to pull the engine shutoff cable out and use something to hold it there. Being your first time I would highly suggest finding a competent mechanic friend to assist you.
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April 6, 2011 at 2:44 pm #31957
Here's the torque sequence.
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April 7, 2011 at 12:42 am #31962
Here is the sequence for setting the valve for a 3 cylinder engine.
http://devonntractors.ca/Findi…..ngines.pdf
All 3 cylinder engines will follow the pattern for setting valves
Good Luck,
RayH
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April 7, 2011 at 7:24 am #31963
1. is the valve cover gasket re-useable?
If it has a rubber one like the Chang Chai engines in the DF's , then yes, if not then a replacement is needed.
Dave
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April 7, 2011 at 11:02 am #31965
i just spoke to Ken at JDB Equipment in Ontario Canada (our Canadian distributor for Jinma and Foton) and he tells me the gasket on the valve cover is rubber and reuseable. I have read the posted instructions for valve setting and the job does seem to be a little more straight forward now.
Does anyone have any info on the actual gap that is being measured on the valves, any photos?
Thanks again to all of you for this….this forum is really informative.
Darryl
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April 7, 2011 at 11:07 am #31966
In my maintenance manual for the Foton TE254 with the Laidong KM385BT 25hp the head torque check and valve clearance check is on the 100 hr maintenance interval.
I believe this differs from the Jinma which is at 50 hrs?
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April 7, 2011 at 12:02 pm #31967
Here is a picture of adjusting the valves. There is a feeler gauge between the rocker and the top of the valve stem. Loosen the locking nut, adjust the valve lash, and re-tighten the nut. I do not know the specs for your engine. Mine is a Quanchai, not too many out there.
Edit: Now I know how to post pictures! Stay the hell away from my laptop with windows 7 and post from work on the XP.
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April 7, 2011 at 12:13 pm #31968
Here is a larger picture. Sorry, I'm just now figuring this picture thing out.
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April 7, 2011 at 6:04 pm #31970
Thanks Tinbender, thats the pic that I was lloking for. great 🙂
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July 7, 2012 at 4:06 pm #34860
I am unable to search the forums and the data I seek my have been lost in the periodic data dumps so I ask…..
What torque value would you use on the injector fuel line bolt (banjo bolt?)?
What torque value would you use on the two bolts holding the injector in place?
Thanks
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July 7, 2012 at 10:09 pm #34862
Phil wrote:
“What torque value would you use on the injector fuel line bolt (banjo bolt?)?”
I think that's an 8mm, so 8-12 ft. lbs. It's not holding back any pressure so just snug will do.
What torque value would you use on the two bolts holding the injector in place?
I think those are 10mm, so 15-22 ft. lbs. If they are grade 8.8 or better then ~33 ft. lbs.
Account deleted.
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July 8, 2012 at 10:45 am #34866
Hi Guys,
Just curious question on how many guys found loose or bad torque on the head bolts when they did them. I remember when I did mine, I marked them before backing them off, (Had to use a cheater on the 1/2 breaker bar!), then when trying to re-torque, the mark was WAY loose compared to factory torque! Visions of a soon-to-be blown head gasket entered my mind and so I “checked” the rest without busting them loose which actually does nothing. I also didn't find any of the other common factory mistakes like the clutch either so maybe mine was meant for a factory worker and actually went thru QC. Ok, now I gotta go knock on some wood. Take care, Fido
Code 347 CLDTI
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July 9, 2012 at 11:58 pm #34875
Those bolts have to be busted loose before re-torquing. If you simply check them you are ignoring years of heating/cooling, rust, paint, etc.
I recommend breaking them loose one at a time then re-torquing to avoid any possible shifting of the head. Also do this in the proper tightening sequence for the heads.
RonJ
ronjin
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November 7, 2012 at 12:55 am #35226
I have a YD Y385 T engine and lost the engine manual I found (through the Forum the correct torque for the heads but I don't Have the Valve clearance I know it has to be in the area of .011 intake and .017 exhaust but not sure can someone help
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November 7, 2012 at 5:58 am #35229
They are in the engine operation manual, we have a replacement if you want to get one.Also if you call the shop we can help you with those settings
Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales
“Your Jinma Parts Superstore”
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November 7, 2012 at 3:45 pm #35230
Thanks Tommy I appreaciate the valve clearance specs and look forward to getting the manual from you
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