Diesel Engine Alarm

I'm not sure I'd want to know how well it works.

I just replaced my gauges with Murphy Switchgauges. Set lube oil to 10 psig and coolant to 200 degrees.

I cut out the union in the tube that goes to the pressure gauge and installed a T and a VW low pressure switch. Have a separate circuit that lights a red light and sounds an alarm when the oil pressure is low. Get to check it every time the dozer is started.

Phil

Looks like a good idea to me.  When I get busy mowing or doing other chores with the tractor I can get forgetful about checking the gauges frequently enough.  I'll have to try to find one of those, thanks!.

5 minutes later:  Found one on Ebay for under $20 with free shipping.  Cheap insurance!

I'm thinking Bob has the best idea. Installing a WD100 Murphy switch kit monitors the oil pressure and temp. It also shuts down the engine when either is triggered. Depending on how much you want to get involved, there are “more advanced” kits to the Murphy line. The downside is the cost. The other ideas here are less expensive.

I'm thinking Phil needs a pretty big alarm over the sound of a dozer.   

Here is a link in case you're interested….

http://www.fwmurphy.com/wd100/

Jack

I've had a few cars in the past where I put a tee fitting on the oil and temp outlets and used the gauges AND an idiot light to remind me, hey idiot, look at the gauges! These were cars that were street/strip and tended to overheat in traffic. A few of the hot rod product companies make oil idiot light sensors that go on at 15-20 lbs. instead of the factory 5 lbs. Don't know if I would hear a buzzer, guess I would if it was loud enough. ( One of the pleasures of seat time, ya can't hear the cell phone ringing )

Remember reading some time back that you want the operator to shut off the engine not some gauge. Something about getting out of a dangerous situation first.

It's hard to beat the Murphy gauges. They are an industry standard and worth the money.

Jackpine wrote:

I'm thinking Phil needs a pretty big alarm over the sound of a dozer.   

I tried a peizo-electric horn, it was too much. Switched to an amber strobe light mounted under the ROPS.

I used the same gauges that are included in the WD100 panel.

Pics are in the old forum.

Duh, as usual, I'm confused. I also would be interested in the Cole Hersee kit, but with its own set of sending units, would I have to delete the originals to use the ports and therefore lose the functioning factory gauges? The Murphy kit sounds like the s*#@! but is a budget issue. Obamanomics ya know.

No you don't have to do away with the originals.  Put a nipple and a tee in and use both.  That's the common way to do it.

Larry

Fido wrote:

The Murphy kit sounds like the s*#@!

What does that mean??

Fido vents:

Obamanomics ya know.

Barak told me to tell you that any temperature sending unit or switch must be immersed in the coolant flow to be effective, and also that he is not to blame for you being on a tight budget.

Bob, I think that means he likes them, i.e. they're the Bomb

Oh. Never mind.

Conflicting opinions here Pals ! (Larry & Bob I mean, not Barak) Anyway, in my simple mind I don't see 2 sending units in a tee fitting being immersed in coolant flow. So, back to my initial inquiry, is it either/or for the factory stuff and the Cole Hersee kit? Or am I over analizing.

Well, I ordered the Cole-Hersee setup and I'm planning on installing the dtwo senders as separate units.  I can find another place to tap an oil gallery I'm sure, or tee into the existing since pressure isn't subject to flow issues, and I can find a place to put a second coolant sensor, I'm sure.  If I can't find a suitable existing fitting or plug to use I'll find a place to drill and tap a new hole.  I do agree with Bob that the temperature sensor should be in flowing coolant if at all possible – in any case it has to be submerged in coolant that stays at engine temp.  That may not absolutely rule out a tee fitting but I think it probably would be better to avoid that solution if at al possible.

Fido, when I answered your post I pictured a tee for the oil senders as I have installed them that way  many times for customers.  For the temp you should find a separate place to add the second one.  Let's not forget the other three ways to tell something is not right with your equipment.   Those are sight, sound and smell. 

EDIT: 

I just went back and read the part about the temp sender having to be immersed in coolant flow.  That was true on some early electric units.  Then they realized something and that was that it was completely worthless in some cases.  If you lost your coolant (blown hose etc) it would not tell you that engine was frying.  Modern ones will react to dry heat.   I suggested finding a separate place to mount the second temp so you get closer to the heat source for accurate reading.

Would you waste any money on a system that would not tell you that your engine was burning up if you lost your coolant?  I certainly would not.   

Fido wrote:

So, back to my initial inquiry, is it either/or for the factory stuff and the Cole Hersee kit?

Nope, you can have it both ways. The oil pressure transducers can be on a tee together. The temperature sensors can be installed in the “run” of a pipe tee where the coolant flow changes direction past the bulb, but usually there is a spare 1/2″NPT plug in the thermostat housing upstream of the thermostat toward the cylinder head.

Fido wrote:

Or am I over analizing.

Nope.

If I understand correctly then, the upper sensor is actually the sending unit for the temp. gauge, and what appears to be a pipe plug you are holding was removed from the hole on the right that now holds the new alarm sensor.

Note: Using Teflon tape can electrically insulate the sensor from the engine block, rendering it useless. I would test for continuity.