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OK, I had the water blow out issue when water was coming out the respirator tube. Found a freeze plug under valve cover popped off. Repaired that, and flushed both oil and water systems. After that, it ran fine for about two days. Then the oil filter fell off. (i dont know why that happened) I didnt see it right away, until I started to hear a loud knock and shut off engine. I replaced filter and oil on the spot, and the knock hasn't went away. I also changed fuel filter too just for good measure. I double checked under valve cover, and all looks ok. What is my next step? Is the oil pump shot? How do I know? Do I remove oil pan and inspect inside? What do I look for? Anything else I can check? It seems the engine starts normal then goes into the knock noise 10-20 seconds after startup. Any thoughts?? Thanks!
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Did your tractor come with spare bearings in a box? You will most likely need them. Pull the pan and start with the rod bearings first. You will most likely see the damage to the bearings without measuring. Unfortunately the main (crankshaft) bearings will be shot as well, and I can't see a way to change them without splitting the tractor. If you're lucky the crankshaft can be cleaned up with crocus cloth and won't need to be turned. Likewise hopefully the rods will not need to be re-sized. I hope I'm wrong but it's doubtful.
Edit: If the rod caps are not marked, stamp or scribe them so you'll be able to put them back exactly as they came off. Same with the mains once you get to that point.
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Tin wrote:
“Unfortunately the main (crankshaft) bearings will be shot as well, and I can't see a way to change them without splitting the tractor. If you're lucky the crankshaft can be cleaned up with crocus cloth and won't need to be turned.”
If there is no apparent damage to the crankshaft main journals, they can be Plasti-Gauged and new bearings rolled in (one at a time). This requires loosening of all main bearing caps.
Make sure the oil filters are screwed on securely! It would have been nice to have had a low oil pressure alarm.
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Tin wrote:
” I was thinking more of how far the crankshaft could be lowered I guess
.”It doesn't actually have to be lowered but a few thousandths, enough to take the pressure off of the upper half of the bearing. You have to be careful because the transmission input shaft is nested in the end of the crankshaft and it ain't a-gonna move much. Also the front seal is pretty stationary too.
Tony wrote:
“OMG! I am overwhelmed. I will investigate and see what can be done.”
Don't be overwhelmed, just be patient and take your time, this will take awhile.
You can start by draining the oil and dropping the oil sump.
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OK. I have drained the oil and pulled the oil pan off. I found metal shavings in the pan. Before when I started it, it was hard starting with white/greyish smoke coming out of smokestack. It would start, and I could move the tractor, but didnt do much as I knew something was wrong. The knock was present when it was running. Are the metal shavings from a piston ring? I see no apparent damage while inspecting from underneath. Whats my next step in this process. Pull the head off? split tractor? I am not sure I want to tackle this. any input is appreciated. Thank-you
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Those metal shavings are/were your crankshaft and connecting rod bearings. Re-read the reply to your first question. Look at the connecting rods and caps, see if they're marked, if not take a sharp punch and make a mark on the side of the rod and cap. One mark on each for cylinder #1, two marks for #2 etc. Pick out a rod or two that do not have their pistons all the way at the top and remove the two bolts holding the rod cap, take it off and inspect.
Just wondering, are you sure you tightened the oil filter when you replaced it? Did you compare the threads between the old and new filter? The fact you continued to run the tractor after it was knocking can't be good
, with luck you still may be able to save the crankshaft without taking it out, which will require splitting the tractor. -
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Tin wrote:
“I know I'm being hopelessly optimistic but it can't hurt now to pull some caps and see what's there.
“Agreed. One of the other problems is that the pistons and rings were run without oil, and the camshaft and rockers, although rockers and pushrods are pretty forgiving. Generally. Short block if the cam & crank are toast maybe.
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be pointless trying to just refit new shells.
its brown bread.
engine needs to come out, crank checked and ground.
a rod with movement bends the crank as its like a hammer hitting hot steel.
it then gets machined to square it again.
so many people do no realise this.
if you just fit shells, how would you remove metal fillings from inside crank and everywhere else they have passed.
you also would not be able to see if the journals are good.
ive tried to be cheeky many years ago on car, changed just shells, engine in, sump off.
they lasted 60 miles.
thats whats going to happen here.
gotta have a crank regrind.
check pistons, i normally find these are all ok.
its just getting metal fillings out as oil takes them round the block.
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I was thinking more of how far the crankshaft could be lowered I guess
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