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Hi guys. Long time no see. So I had this great idea to change the oil in the dozer. I fon’t have a functional dipstick. My plan was to measure how much I drain out and put that much back. Imagine my surprise when I drain out a little over 7 quarts not counting the filter! Somehow I doubt that is the right number. I looked in the manual and it claims 4.5 liters. Hmmmm.
Any ideas?
Griz
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humm I think I would think about try to get a correct dipstick cause that is what I default to. I know that the engine capacities and the books sometimes do not match , whereas the engine builders SHOULD put in the right stick for that engine their building. But if you have had no trouble running 7 quarts I would use it again ,better than not having enough in there.
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Thanks Trevor. That’s 6L on the button. Any chance I can get a copy of the document you have on the ty395? The one I have lists the capacity at 4.5L and also calls out the wrong filter number. The document says Jx0811 (which is the one you guys gave me as spare) but the one I pulled off the tractor is Jx85100A. The hole is completely different size so I need the Jx85100A.
Any luck finding me the various dipsticks I asked about? Obviously the engine oil one is a priority 🙂
Shannon
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Good to see you back Grizz. Last time I changed oil (over 350 hrs. ago), it took 6-1/2 quarts with a filter change. I change by analysis now.
Circle G might have a dipstick, but I opted to use an aftermarket one from NAPA, seeing as how the rubber on the OEM dipstick kinda shrinks and goes away. I just copied the length and markings to the new stick.
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Unfortunately the dipstick came apart the first time I touched it. I could have done what you did but I had no way of knowing where the stop should be.
I don’t even want to analyze the stuff that came out. It didn’t smell burnt or full of diesel but it was as black as coal. I’m guessing it is massive soot contamination or it was the original stuff from China.
One question while we are on the subject of oil… I’m also changing the oil in the finals. Wally-mart is having a sale on 85W-140 but the label is silent on the subject of copper corrosion. Does anyone know if there is anything to worry about in the final drive compartment? A bronze bearing? Copper washers?
Griz
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Because nothing is ever easy…haha
I got the replacement oil filter. Same exact part number. Different vendor 0 Geewei instead of Rixin.
The old filter is more domed than the new filter. Because of this I can only get about three-quarters of a turn before it is tight. I don’t feel comfortable about this.
Opinions?
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There are no yellow metals in the final drives, you’re good with that oil.
On the engine oil; It’s good that it’s black as coal tar. That means that it’s doing it’s job of holding all those carbon particles in suspension and not depositing them on critical wear parts like bearings and sleeve walls. Cold running engines produce more soot. Running mine at 185° to 190° greatly improves the thermal efficiency.
I wouldn’t use that new filter if I were you. I’d like to see at least three complete turns before it comes up snug. NAPA and Baldwin websites let you pick your filter by dimensions, and thread type/size/projection. Do you know if you have SAE or metric threads. Also, Ronald sells an inexpensive adapter to fit the oil filter head and change the thread from metric to SAE. Pretty slick. I use a NAPA gold filter, but I forgot the number.
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that is a a-plus on that filter adapter the only catch is you need to have a housing with a screw in nipple that holds the filter, I have a tractor that had a cast in nipple to hold the filter so I bought a new oil filter housing so I could use the adapter and more common filters . I can not remember the thread size but I use a ph-8a style filter very common
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How’s that retirement treating you?
Griz
It’s great, but I need to get back to work for some rest. :yahoo:
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Replaced the filter head and filter fits great now. I put in 6 liters of oil but it just barely shows on the dipstick. Added another half liter and it hits the bottom line on the stick. Maybe this one really does take 7 liters!
Anyway, I ran it for a bit and the oil pressure jumped up to 0.5 MPa! It used to run at about 0.3 MPa. Not sure what to think about that. I guess high is better than low but I’m not sure why the pressure would jump so much after an oil change.
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Replaced the filter head and filter fits great now. I put in 6 liters of oil but it just barely shows on the dipstick. Added another half liter and it hits the bottom line on the stick. Maybe this one really does take 7 liters! Anyway, I ran it for a bit and the oil pressure jumped up to 0.5 MPa! It used to run at about 0.3 MPa. Not sure what to think about that. I guess high is better than low but I’m not sure why the pressure would jump so much after an oil change.
If your old oil had been in there as long as you suspect I’d say you’ve discovered viscosity!
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