Forum › Forums › Tractor Troubleshooting › Failure to start
- This topic has 22 replies, 10 voices, and was last updated 11 years, 5 months ago by Dan Lewis.
-
AuthorPosts
-
-
May 21, 2013 at 9:25 am #30776
First let me say this is a fine forum and info contained helped make my purchase decision.
I have a Jinma 254 for almost 3 years, 100 hours, obvious light use. After about one hour of moderate FEL use, the tractor was put away with an oil change a few days later.
At next start attempt, it only made about an 1/8 of a turn and nothing. Using info gleaned here, I cleaned and tightened terminals, checked fuses, checked clutch switch, attempted to jump without success. Then I shorted across starter and it spun freely. Shorting across solenoid gave same result as ignition switch.
The FEL was on with bucket down, so I removed loader. With tractor in high gear, I tried to winch to move the engine. It maybe rotated a little.
Next was pulling with a small SUV driven by my wife who reminded me I yelled at her the last time we did this. It had to be 25 years ago. Determined not to yell, away we went slowly. Let out on the clutch … tires locked. A little faster let out on the clutch, popped and started right up. I've been cautious since. My untrained ear does not detect knocking, no smoking, power seems normal, temp/oil gauges register as before, started fine the next time and ran it for another hour, check oil and coolant without anything abnormal.
I'm curious what was likely stuck?
-
May 21, 2013 at 11:50 am #36084
Hi
I am my Jinma having the same problem with my Jinma. I have towed it and no joy. I just discovered from this Assn that there is a compression release. My Chinese manual did not show this. The tractor was sold to me by a re-seller here in Nova
Scotia who imported it from a dealer in the USA. The manuals were not worth the paper they were copied on. I have had a few diesel engines before the tractor , namely Yanmar and found the compression release useful.Clyde
-
May 21, 2013 at 4:19 pm #36085
It is possible that your engine was hydro-locked, which would prevent the starter from being able to turn it over. You're fortunate, if that was the case, that it didn't wreck a piston or rod when you pull-started it. As noted, the compression release is a good feature as it will allow a hydro-locked engine to “clear its throat” and then run. A leaking injector can cause hydro locking.
-
May 21, 2013 at 6:00 pm #36086
I agree with Rich that it was hydro-locked but I think for a different reason. You changed the oil right before this happened. Some of the engines used in these tractors take oil very slowly. You can poor it in much faster than it can drain down. In fact pouring it in a normal rate can overflow the valve cover. At that point the valve cover is completely full of oil. An open valve and tolerances that are less than perfect can allow a little oil on top of a piston. It won't compress. I have seen it happen. Also make sure that you did not overfill the oil. And as others have said that compression release is your friend. Never try to force the issue.
-
May 22, 2013 at 1:04 pm #36088
Good point, Larry. I'd forgotten about the notorious slow draining form the top down. That would definitely be a more likely cause of hydro-locking.
-
May 22, 2013 at 8:59 pm #36091
I've had this happen to me a couple of times but pulling the compression release didn't do the trick I had to pull the glow plugs and bar the engine over from the front crankshaft pulley bolt the 1st time it made mess as a big shot of oil came out of the middle glow plug hole the 2nd time I layed an old bath towel over the engine to catch the oil.
-
May 23, 2013 at 10:13 pm #36096
chichi, that tells me that your compression release is not working. Possible cause…somebody had the valve cover off and did not get it hooked back up correctly inside the cover. The compression release opens the exhaust valves so if it was working it would allow the oil the blow right out of there.
-
May 28, 2013 at 4:59 pm #36105
Thanks very much for the advice. I did find the compression release and it moves freely.
The oil flow seems likely since I was frustrated that it did not drain from the funnel very fast. Next time I’ll be patient.
It is great to have access to this expertise.
-
May 28, 2013 at 6:48 pm #36106
The compression release should not move freely”. It should take some real effort to turn it to raise the exhaust valves. I suggest pulling the valve cover and making sure it is actually connected properly in the valve train.
-
May 29, 2013 at 8:50 am #36107
when you are turning the engine over there should be quite a difference audibly when the compression release is engaged vs. not being used.
but having done a valve adj.those linkages are a pain,and might not be right.
-
June 16, 2013 at 4:46 pm #36146
My 2 Wheel Jinma will not turn over. I did not have a flapper on the exhaust and water got in. I have waited until frost is over and now I want to try and start it. It will not turn over. Tonight I looked under the hood to see if I could turn it over with a wrench. Do I have to remove the radiator???And If I do will I find a centre nut on the front of the crank.?
I have removed the injectors and squirted RustCheck in there and then replaced the injectors on the advice of a mechanic. It will not turn over when towed either. I may just have an expensive red pile of tractor parts on my hands!!!!
-
June 16, 2013 at 6:32 pm #36147
harbor freight has a cheap inspection camera you might want to consider to look thru the injector holes to see the cylinder walls or do it the old fashion way and pull the head to see whats there,good luck
-
June 17, 2013 at 2:19 am #36149
If I understand correctly:
The tractor sat out in the weather over the winter without the exhaust covered and rain got into the cylinders and seized the aluminum pistons to the cast iron cylinder liners and you waited for spring to start it. There is no anti-freeze in rain water. Good luck. I've seen people down that road before.
And don't blame the tractor!
Account deleted.
-
June 20, 2013 at 2:53 pm #36151
Clyde – What rust check did you spray into the injector holes , most of their products are for coatings and protectors- there is the freeze product but normally it is for external nuts and bolts…
you may want to try something like marvel mystery oil or even ATF and a little acetone mixed in. give it some time before trying to turn the crankshaft. if it won't move add some more and give it another day and continue trying-
if it takes a week you may have enough damage to need tear down, If it does loosen up, turn by hand until it is not binding up hold the compression relief open roll it over
if ok dump the oil change the filter roll over again till you have oil pressure and then try and start it . it's worth a try Good luck
-
June 20, 2013 at 9:36 pm #36152
Clyde,
I have no idea of the weather and temperature in Nova Scotia, but if it is warm enough to have melted any ice in the engine – I would:
- Drain the engine oil crankcase and see what is in there.
- Remove Glow Plugs and Injectors.
- Tie off the compression release in an open position
- Turn the engine by hand. There is a bolt on the center of the pulley. Challenge will probably be getting a socket and long ratchet on it.
- If it turns over, stop until you get replacement oil in the engine.
Let us know the results.
RonJ
ronjin
-
June 21, 2013 at 12:34 pm #36154
I'm sure one of the dealers would gladly sell you a new engine at a nominal cost. The one thing I've learned about Chinese tractors and equipment is they require more maintenance and a lot more love as they are not very forgiving . Leaving a Jinma outside all winter in the harsh conditions its going to take a lot of loven to get her to forgive you.
-
June 21, 2013 at 4:53 pm #36157
I don't care what brand of engine you have, if you put water in the combustion chamber, freeze and thaw it several times, you will get a molecular reaction between the dissimilar metals known as corrosion which eats away at piston rings, pits cylinder liners, and turns aluminum into white mush. I've had to literally chisel pistons out of engines before because of that
A simple coffee can or bucket over the exhaust prevents that.
And you consider Chinese tractors not very forgiving? On the contrary, they are very forgiving considering the actions of some of their owners. But like any machine, they will only tolerate so much incompetence before they fail.
Account deleted.
-
June 23, 2013 at 11:28 pm #36161
It my experience Jinmas compared to Ford ,John Deere or a Kubota are not very forgiving don't misunderstand me for the price you can't beat a Jinma I have found if you give them a little more grease keep a little closer eye on the fluid levels bolts have a tendency to come loose a little quicker fluid leaks happen more often they just need more love is all. I remember a friend of my grandfather had this Ford tractor he had it parked out behind the barn had the coffee can over the exhaust only problem was during the storm the wind blew the coffee can off the engine got drowned and was locked up about 2 weeks went by before he noticed what had happen they drug her into the barn fired up that pot belly stove thawed her out removed the spark plugs got the water out of the cylinders poured kerosene into the cyinders changed the oil she fired right up smoked a little the 1st hour plowing snow but after that it ran for years. That's forgiveness let the same thing happen to a Jinma I seriously doubt you would get the same result.
-
June 24, 2013 at 4:30 am #36162
By that comparison, yes. But you're comparing apples to oranges – gas engine to diesel engine. The sulfur found in diesel fuel and lube oil acts as a catalyst when in contact with aluminum and cast iron – and water. This would happen to any diesel engine, it's not a Jinma thing. You don't get this type of reaction within a gas engine.
Account deleted.
-
July 10, 2013 at 7:08 pm #36185
Ron and others who gave advice:
I removed the injectors, and followed advice: Decompression, Had to remove the radiator and some stuff to get at the nut on the front of the crank. Put on a socket and my new Sears ratchet (also made in China and not worth dick) Slid a length of pipe on the ratchet handle and slowly worked the pulley back and forth…eventually the thing loosened up some ….I can turn the pulley almost one turn…in my tiny brain I can almost see two pistons moving up and down….then it all seized up tight. It rotates freely until it reach its stop.
A local advises me to remove the head! I know that I'll never get all the parts back together in the right order! What the hell, maybe I'll benefit from learning to tear it down.
Clyde
-
July 10, 2013 at 8:05 pm #36186
write notes take pictures you can not get any cheaper references than that.and good luck ,I did not like the sticking part.
-
July 10, 2013 at 8:20 pm #36187
What David said. Also take some cardboard and draw out the dimensions of the head and as you remove bolts push them through the cardboard where they belong on the head (or tape them on if they're nuts). One piece for each layer you pull apart. When you put it back together not only do you know what goes where, but the rockers and push rods are still matched up and any like bolts of different lengths go back in the correct holes.
-
July 16, 2013 at 11:46 pm #36199
Clyde wondering which (rust check) did you use ? The type that (converts rust would be bad) in the sense that any rust that formed on the cylinder walls will be converted to a more permanent coating that would be very hard for the rings to slide over-
also you did not mention using any marvel , ATF, diesel or any other fluid to break down the rust and lube the cylinder walls…if you used a rust check product that breaks down rust and lubes (my apologies).
At this point it does sound prudent to take the head off and have a close look at everything.
MARK or index the gears under the front cover- some engines are indexed with #1 piston at top dead center. My Chinese tractor was not..
You may not have to mark any of the gears (if it was done by the factory)
You want to have a verifiable way to align all the gears.
– and therefore timing in the correct positions BEFORE the head is taken off-
this is to have the gear indexing figured out- in case after head removal, the crank gets turned to remove pistons…
This is one of those (an ounce of prevention beats a pound of cure-instances). As others have said take plenty of pictures to aid in reassembly.
Good luck and We all learn by doing
-
-
AuthorPosts
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.