farm pro 2425

Not likely to be the voltage regulator. What relay did you order?

Have you traced the power from the battery cable from point to point starting at the battery? Either a 12v test light or a volt meter or multi-meter will do the job.

Fuse blocks on these tractors are notorious for bad connections. even though the fuse is good, the wiring connector may not be.

Another known weak spot is the key switch. Have you tried the run position to the left instead of the one on the right?

Do you have a wiring schematic to follow?

Did this symptom just start or is there a history of electrical issues?

Personally I would start at the power feed to the fuse block. IF that is dead, work my way back towards the battery until I found power. If there is power at the fuse block I would test at the ampmeter and the key switch then follow outward until I found the fault.

The positive battery cable runs from the battery to the starter, all the rest of the electrical system flows out from the starter and that is an easy place to access.

An old axiom of electrical system troubleshooting is “check the grounds, check the grounds, check the grounds”. All power flows back to the battery through the ground wire that is attached to the frame. If that connection is bad nothing works. Take the bolt out of the frame and sandpaper the frame and cable lug to make them shiny then re-assemble.

Let us know what you find and we can go from there.

My friend and I both have farmpro 2425…. he just had the same problem and it was a melted wire  in a 12 wire block connecter . 12 wires in, 12 wires out. Find that wiring block near the firewall and check it out.

there is no fancy computers on these tractors so a test light can be used to look for hot or not. Also make sure the grounds are good , they can be a resistance problem creating heat that damages the hot sides. Paint under bolts have been a problem in the past.

I had the same problem on my McConell Marc 425 XL…I had no power at the key switch…I started checking the wiring with a test light…I tracked it down to the main 30 amp fuse under the dash…the fuse was good (it was a big weird looking fuse)..it turned out it was the connector where the fuse plugged into that was bad in the fuse block…one of the ears was broken and wouldn’t hold the fuse tight…I went to Auto zone got a new inline 30 amp fuse. I removed the wires from each side of the fuse block where the original 30 amp fuse plugged in (be sure to disconnect the battery) and spliced in the new 30 amp fuse to those wires and zip tied it up under the dash…problem solved…now it starts every time…