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Check your fuel bowl screen,sounds like its stopping up or your hose from the fuel tank to the injector pump
Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales
“Your Jinma Parts Superstore”
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take pipe off to lift pump, see if it runs out, i think it will be slow, take cap off and blow hard up line until you hear it bubble.
now see what fuel runs out like, i think stuff in bottom of tank is blocking it or pipe has a spot where it has a bubble that is blocking the hole.
if not, try to run engine from a jerry can, that will tell you a answer.
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Diesel bugs have been known to plug sediment bowl screens and tank suction tubes.
They will appear as a dark brown/black sludge. Subsequent treatments with a biocide will be necessary, even after a thorough tank cleaning.
They are microscopic, so common sense says don't get them in your mouth. Bad ju ju.
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I just had the same problem of fuel starvation and found the sediment bowl screen to be plugged with brown sludge. (You have to remove the sediment bowl assembly from the tank to see the screen.) YES, I do add biocide to my fuel but admit that I do not add any maintenance doses of biocide.
My solution was to remove this screen and the screen in the banjo bolt on the bottom of the primer unit thinking that the fuel filter should due the filtering. Why have more restrictions the the fuel system?
OK Bob, I am ready for your feed back.
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pepage wrote:
“My solution was to remove this screen and the screen in the banjo bolt on the bottom of the primer unit thinking that the fuel filter should due the filtering. Why have more restrictions the the fuel system?”
The screen in the sediment bowl and banjo bolt act as your primary fuel filters. Usually there will be primary and secondary spin-on or cannister fuel filters, but these smaller less costly machines don't have them (that includes most all CUT's. They are all cheap by commercial standards). Even my Mustang with a Yanmar diesel doesn't have a real primary fuel filter. So what I'm getting at is that the bugs are highly corrosive and can eat away the steel valve seats in your lift pump causing the loss of fuel pressure and eventually (over a short time) cause the engine to shut down – like running out of fuel, and you'll be scratching your head. The brown sludge you mentioned are diesel bugs – billions of microscopic Cyanobacteria.
Word of caution – don't get them in your mouth.
Bad Ju Ju.We will see more bug issues in the future because the sulfur in the fuel which aided in the lubrication of pump parts, etc., also acted as a form of biocide and arrested the prolific growth of the bugs. And the sulfur is slowly going away. First it was Low Sulfur Diesel (LSD), then it was Ultra Low Sulfur Diesel (ULSD), and I speculate the next step will be No Sulfur Diesel (NSD). Actually, the bugs are always in the fuel anyway, it's only when they come in contact with moisture that they become a problem.
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Are you telling me I have to drain the fuel tank every time I do a fuel filter change?
I cut the oil pressure gage line to add a VW low pressure switch. Can I cut the fuel line after the sediment bowl and add a primary screen filter that is easy to see/change without having to drain the fuel tank?
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pepage wrote:
“Are you telling me I have to drain the fuel tank every time I do a fuel filter change?”
Of course not, where did you get that?
If you store fuel in bulk you should most definately treat it, otherwise just a spoonfull (or follow instructions) of biocide for every 10 gallons.The fuel sediment bowl already has a very fine removeable/cleanable screen in it. I believe it's about 20µ. The banjo bolt is about twice that. But to answer your question, yes. You can get the in-line disposable transparent pleated paper type and change it out when it starts to get dark.
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Take a deep breath Bob, my name is Phil not Ronald.
The shut off valve for the fuel tank is in the sediment bowl assembly and this assembly must be removed to check/clean the the screen hence the need to drain the fuel tank. What am I missing?
I promised the County that I would not store my fuel in a 55 gal drum so I purchased a 30 gal poly tank from McMaster-Carr and store it in a 55 gal drum for double containment. Every time I get 30 gallons of fuel I add 1oz of biocide and one bottle of Power Service additive that treats up to 40 gallons. What I do not do is add a maintenance dose (1/2oz biocide) but have to admit I did add some after finding the screen plugged.
Have to do another mod.
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Phil wrote:
“The shut off valve for the fuel tank is in the sediment bowl assembly and this assembly must be removed to check/clean the the screen hence the need to drain the fuel tank. What am I missing?”
Sorry 'bout that. If you have the type of bowl assembly that has the screen in the nipple, remove that screen an toss it. I was referring to the bowl assembly that has the round screen just under the glass.Account deleted.
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More info on banjo screens.
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I am looking a two in line primary fuel filters. One is the Moeller Marine filter (033319-10) found at West Marine and Baldwin,s BF7725. Both have a nylon screen of unknown hole size. I am leaning toward the Baldwin filter as the Moeller filter has a glass casing. How would I attach the Baldwin filter to copper tubing? Phil
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Try THIS Moeller filter. It's the same type as the Baldwin except it's transparent.
That type of filter usually comes with a set of four hose clamps and two hose jumpers. You will have to remove a portion of the existing fuel line that is slightly longer that the filter body, or re-route the existing tubing to accommodate it. You may have to put a slight flare on the end of the tubing and clamp close to it.
This Racor filter is the one I would recommend, 10 micron w/ water separator, and it's transparent too.
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Bob, Thanks for the information. I like the idea of the Racor disposable clear filter that also removes water but am concerned that it has cellulose filtration, is for gas and is not listed as a product in the Parker/Racor website. Would not want to install a discontinued product and have to go through this again. I see now in the 025 series overview that 025-RAC-05 is an all steel filter and no water seperation
It looks like I need to install a Racor 25 series prefilter which should be good for diesel engines up to 80 HP. Two part numbers have the same specs (025-MBL-02B & 025-RAC-02) i.e. same size, filter 10 microns and have 99% water removal. Both these part numbers use the same replaceable filter element, S2502.
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This is probaly the place where I would purchase Racor products.
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Most of the time it is the line from the shut off to the hand pump. When it warms up the line will collaspe on the inside or it could be the other things mentioned above.
http://www.circlegtractorparts.com
Phillip
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