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Getting the steering sorted hopefully soon so now the Alternator. Never worked in 8 years I had it would just put a battery charger every once in awhile. No output. Checked the 30 Amp fuse it was good
I heard some people put a simple GM self regulating 1 wire Alternator rather then replacing with a factory ?
Anybody do that or am I missing something on the trouble shooting ? Also I do not see any wires leading back to the battery only. Black on Ground red on the starter ??
Thanks
Ken
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Yes, I did that to my Jinma 284. It had a totally enclosed fan alternator that was fine but it only put out 14 amps and had an external voltage regulator that mounted in the fuse block. Had lots of issues with the wiring in the fuse block and when the regulator failed it was $25 plus shipping which put it at almost $40.
For $60 I bought a reconditioned Delco 12 Si. A little wiring and a slight mod to the mounting bracket and all was well. Plenty of power to run all the extra lights and possibly a small inverter if I need it.
I lost the functionality of the battery light in the dash but at the time the amp meter was working fine. It has since failed due to the needle being warped by sunlight and age. I added an aftermarket volt meter which also aids in troubleshooting although I do miss the amp meter.
Also, the Delco is an open frame alternator which means dirt and water can get inside. If I were doing a lot of mowing or other activity that put lots of plant dust in the air it might be a fire concern. As it is I just blow it out when I am doing other tractor maintenance and it has been fine. I also don’t hose it off directly with the pressure washer because there are bearings and brushes in there.
The alternator you have is connected to the battery at the starter stud. That is the main power point for the whole tractor and is electrically just a remote mounted positive battery terminal.
As usual, check all grounds. Corrosion and paint are your two worst enemies. I would start by checking for continuity from the alternator to ground and then for power at the + connector on the alternator. If that is good, check the wiring from there to the voltage regulator, where ever it may be. Wiring on these tractors is really poor at best. Crimped on ends have a tendency to work loose and break. If all is good you probably have a regulator issue.
There is a way to “full field” the alternator but I don’t remember it off the top of my head. In any case it probably varies a little with the type of regulator you have
Do you have a wiring schematic for your tractor?
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Thank you for taking the time out describing things to look for . No I don’t have a schematic for the tractor . If I hear you correctly you are thinking more of a wiring or reg or grounds then the Alternator itself ?
Funny thing is I do get dash lights when I turn the key to the on , No Amp meter movement, headlights or fuel gauge readings.
It never worked since I bought it and have put many miles on her. It works hard for me and the price was amazing .
Thanks
Ken
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I would take the orginal alt. to a good shop and see if they can see what is wrong with it. if they can not fix it I would ask them if they know of a sealed alt. that will bolt up. Now if you need more amps to run accessories the single wire delco is a good way to go. And ask about the sense wire hook up so the alt. will kick in at a lower rpm.
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