FEL control valve

When you dissembled the valve I take it you must have loosened the springs under the cans on the outside rear of the valve? If those screws holding the springs are loose (common) it will cause the exact problem you are describing.

If you do decide to replace the control valve, Ronald at Ranch Hand Supply sells an excellent conversion setup – easy to do and makes a huge difference in control.

Clean it better. Had that problem a few years back.

We are talking about the two springs opposite the joystick on the end of the valve underneath cans held on by Allen screws. These need to be TIGHT. One is on the end of the dump/curl valve, one at the end of the up/down. You can tighten these without removing the valve Assembly. There is another one on top, smaller. Don't adjust it, it is the pressure setting for the valve. You can remove that assembly to clean it if needed, just don't adjust it without a gauge in line.

 I had this problem with mine, took the valve off, took it completely apart, changed the o-rings, all the problem was were these screws holding the springs on were loose, I later found old posts on this subject. At least I can say the valve is clean

I see this is an older post, but I think I have a similar problem. My FEL will not lift or curl. This has happened before, and I had a mechanic friend that took the control valve apart, cleaned it, put it back together and it worked. He is no longer with us (RIP) and I do not remember exactly how he did it. A picture goes a long way with me. Does anyone have some photos, or a drawing that would show me how I can disassemble and clean?

Also, I do not get where the screws are you mention. This is what my FEL control valve looks like

Look on the bottom of your valve you will see 2- caps, each has 2- screws that hold the cap on, remove them you will see the bolt and spring.The bolt in the center must be tight,does all of your other hydraulics work ok ?

Tommy

Affordable Tractor Sales

“Your Jinma Parts Superstore”

http://www.affordabletractorsalesco.com

Thanks Tommy,

Yes the other hydraulics are working. I will pull those covers off and have a look as soon as I can.

I pulled off the covers and everything looked tight. Both valves are moving as they should when the lever activates them. I took apart the valve assembly behind the lever. I did not notice much dirt, but the rod in the valve below did seem to be sticking a bit. I cleaned it. Is there any other parts in this controller that could be blocking fluid flow?

The FEL is still not working after cleaning the valve. I did not locate any screws to tighten when I took the caps off the. I pulled the disconnects and the balls can be pushed in. Please help with some other ideas. How can I verify that I am getting fluid into the controller? I presume I would also need to check the return.

Anyone have pictures of FEL control valve disassembly? 

Which tractor do you have?  Which FEL?  Do you have a hydraulic pressure gauge?  How are the hydraulics 'plumbed'?

RonJ

It is a Jinma 284 with the factory bucket.  Here is a look at a similar unit I found online. (mine is a bit older but it shows the FEL controls). TThere is a line from rigid line from the main 3 point piston and fluid tank up to the pump on the engine, from there through quick connects to the valve, out of valve to a diverter (I think), then back to the pump on the engine. I will see if I can find a better diagram

I cannot find any screws to tighten on the FEL control valve. I took the covers off. I see springs and a cap on the bottom, but no screws. Can someone show me where these might be?

Is this about the same as your hydraulic flows?

RonJ

Thanks for the reply Ron. Yes but my FEL control valve is very different as you can see in this thread a few comments back. My power steering is working. From reading some posts, that tells me the flow to and out of the pump is good. The problem must be in the valve, or the diverter.I cannot find the screws I have been recommended to tighten. I have a picture of the valve with the covers off, two comments back.

They should be at the end of those springs, in the center, holding the springs onto the end of their respective shafts. Not the same valve as mine but would expect to find them there

Folks are talking about a much newer valve than you have.  It is hard to tell from the pictures.  If your valve looks like a square block and the handle sticks pretty much straight up then that is the old style valve.  To put it bluntly that valve was so bad than even Jinma stopped using it.  It is not worth messing with.  You can save yourself a lot of future problems by upgrading the valve.  Those old valves were famous for not letting oil through at times an splitting pumps wide open.  Check with Ronald at Ranch hand for his valve upgrade.  You will find them listed as a supporting dealer on this site.    

I really like the upgrade valve I got from Ronald – it makes a huge difference in how smoothly the loader functions.  That said, I still have the old one I took off.  It is the old-style valve, the square blocky one.  If you want it, you can have it for the cost of shipping it.  It might fit n the large Flat Rate box with the hoses, for sure without them.

Thanks Tinbender, but there are no screws in the center. I am sure of that. I do not have a pressure gauge to put inline, but I am willing to purchase one of Tommy has one to buy. I am sure the fittings are not easy to match.

I have to get the bucket working soon. It has been down for 2 weeks now. I guess I need to verify I have pressure to the valve first. The power steering is working. Does that confirm the diverter valve and the pump? I do not want to take the valve completely apart without a diagram at least. I have not found one in my JM repair manuals.

Thank you I will try and get in touch with Ranch Hand and find out about the upgrade. I would like to make sure it is the valve, and not something else before buying it.

The first thing that I would do it install a pressure gauge between the pump and the FEL control valve.  It is a good diagnostic tool to have regardless of what else you need to do.

It has been several years, but my recollection is that the power steering and 3pt took much less hydraulic pressure to operate than the FEL.

RonJ

Thanks Ron,

What pressure should I expect?

Do you have some thoughts on how I could make the pressure gauge? Could I get what I need at a local hardware store?

Unlikely that a local hardware would have what you need to make a hydraulic pressure gauge.  First, you need a gauge that reads up to about 3,000 psi.  Then you need the proper Chinese metric fittings to plumb it into wherever you want to read the pressure.  This could mean metric pipe thread fittings, those difficult to find Chinese metric o-ring face seal (sort of) hydraulic fittings, or even metric machine bolt threads – depending on where it gets plumbed in. 

Simplest is to put a pair of quick couplers on it and drop ion series into the loader connects if your tractor is equipped that way, but that will only read the maximum system pressure when you work the loader to stall point or when the pressure relief valve opens.  Best to have a variety of fittings so you can adapt it to go in different places n the system.

I'd suggest calling Ronald at RanchHand Supply or Tommy at Affordable Tractor Sales and ask them if they sell a pressure gauge setup.

Note: working with hydraulic systems can be hazardous.  System pressures typically run over 2,000 psi and even a tiny leak can eject fluid out that will blast its way into your skin in a split second.  The result can be fatal.  This is why you are always cautioned to test for the presence of a leak by using a piece of cardboard, not your hand.

Just wanted to close this one out. Ronald at Ranchhand fixed me up with a new valve. Easy install and works better than original.

Thanks Ronald

I am haveing the same problem, was loading  snow and loader just quit, its back in the barn, (warming up) I have read the posts regarding FEL  and will start with a pressure guage and valves in the loader control. I have the old style fel valve with the handle on top, oils up and still have steering and TPH working fine. I will be getting into it today. 

I have found one drilling chip inside the loader valve, and could not locate a presure guage as of yet. put it all back together and have to rev the engine to get the loader to operate, it used to operate at idle. Anyone got any ideas on what to look for next. 

I think that you need that pressure gauge installed to safely pursue this problem.

RonJ

I will be out at tractor supply today the suppliers in my area were all closed for the holiday. jinma 204, ZL 20 loader old style control valve handle on top, 287 hours

I have plumed in a hydraulic pressure guage 3000 model,  in the discharge line of the the hydraulic pump at the ouick disconect location. guite easythe threads were 1/2 in NPT  so added a 1/2 tee, 1/2 close nipple,  1/2 to 1/4 reducing bushing and 1/4 npt glisserin filled guage re installed the QD and purged the air into the sump. after some time for the foaming to dissapate and toping off the oil the guage was running at 250 with the engine at idle. it would jump to 2500 if I turned the steering wheel andwhen released would return to 250. it stayed at 250 when the three point hitch was oprerated, no response from the fel valve at idle,  when RPM was increased  the pressure guage remained the same 250  but after enguaging the fel control handle, a delay of two seconds berore the fel would react  and the guage would also jump to 2500  when the fel was under demand , So I am still searching. does any one know what the pump should put out under no load, what does the diverter valve do?  I am still perplexed, as I am learning about hydraulics.                                                            

Be very careful if you used sch 40 fittings & nipples, your hydraulic pump pressure is going to be around 2,300 PSI and if you used sch 40 parts it's rated at 300PSI

When you are not steering ,using the 3-point, or the loader the hydraulic fluid is just making a loop from the pump thru everything and back to the pump the pressure is OK, sounds like you have a pressure relief problem still or a adjustment problem with the FEL valve. We have complete replacement old style valves, but we don't have just the PRV as a seperate part

Tommy

Affordable Tractor Sales

“Your Jinma Parts Superstore”

http://www.affordabletractorsalesco.com

I can't look, this is a train wreck.

Paolo, you MUST use schedule 80 heavy wall pipe fittings for ALL of the pressure side hydraulics otherwise they can burst under pressure and you can be killed!

Best case is skin impingement injection and blood poisoning.

Paolo-

STOP!

Let's be sure that you don't hurt yourself or others.  You said that you were going to a tractor supply place.  Is that were you got your fittings for connecting the gauge?  If not, are you sure that they will handle the high pressure of a hydraulic system?

RonJ

I have the proper hydraulic fittings on the guage, But thanks for puting the fear of God, and Murphey's Law in me.

If we didn't care, we wouldn't have said anything.

Is factory Jinma FEL have a open center, Closed center or is it power beyond.

I would like to get a three spool valve for grapple and a float. I see them around and would like add this to my Jinma. Also would make bracket to move it closer to a more comfortable position.

Thanks

Mike 

They are open center. The factory valve has no provision for power beyond. Ronald at ranch hand supply sells a kit with a name brand valve ( like what Jinma copied but with power beyond capability), a bracket, hoses, etc. Check it out at his website under “Dealers”.

Here is another way to go about this, one I would like to use as it’s cheaper and moves the extra valve away from the stack at the joystick:    http://www.surpluscenter.com/i…..m=9-7852     It would have saved even more if I would have bought this when first thinking about it, they aren’t getting cheaper

I have cleaned and flushed my FEL valve two more times with kerosene and is now responding to commands at idle. dont know what happened in there but it is working again. Thanks to all.