Forum › Forums › Tractor Troubleshooting › Foton 40hp
- This topic has 27 replies, 6 voices, and was last updated 13 years, 3 months ago by larryinalabama.
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September 6, 2011 at 12:09 pm #30399Anonymous
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I have a 40hp Fonton tractor.The alternator froze up.I replaced it with a new one.It froze up.The alternator has some sort of oil pump attached to the back.There are two oil lines coming and going from pump into side of the engine.The paddles inside oil pump are becoming damaged and freezing up the alternator.I believe because of no oil flow.It seemed at the same time I started with electrical problems, like, nothing on the dash is working.I have to start the tractor with a screwdriver.I also replaced the small hose (vaccume?) going to a diaphram of some type.Im very frustrated.Any Ideas?Are there two seperate problems? Thank you, for any help, John
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September 6, 2011 at 1:05 pm #33149
Hi John, welcome.
I'm not all that familiar with Fonton tractors, but I believe the pump on the back of the alternator is an air or vacuum pump that is used in conjunction with a type of EGR valve, that is part of the emissions system. Does it have a hose running to the air cleaner? Have pics?
I think the electrical problems are coincidental and unrelated.
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September 6, 2011 at 1:15 pm #33150Anonymous
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I believe the small vaccume hose leads to the air intake.I will check.The four fiber paddels inside the pump keep getting chewed up and then it locks up the alternator?Thanks for the input.
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September 6, 2011 at 2:43 pm #33151
The pump sounds like it is getting very dirty air. The pump will have to be rebuilt or replaced – it sounds like the vane surfaces are badly scored (which is chewing up the vanes) or the side clearances are too tight. How clean is your air filter?
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September 6, 2011 at 3:51 pm #33152
I'm inclined to think you have a bad EGR valve. The pump would normally pump in clean air to add to the exhaust to help produce a cleaner burn, but you are getting hot exhaust gasses back to the pump instead. At least that would explain the vanes going to hell so fast.
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September 7, 2011 at 11:10 am #33154Anonymous
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Thank you.I will check both. thanks John
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September 7, 2011 at 6:51 pm #33160
I'm thinking about my answer to your post. I think my answer is right, I just don't think you have an EGR valve. I believe the pump on the back of the alternator is a “smog” pump whose purpose is as I stated to mix fresh air in with the exhaust. An EGR (exhaust gas recirculation) valve re-routs some of the exhaust back into the intake manifold to be re-burned at certain RPM's, and would not be on the side of the engine or require a pump. I am not familiar with the Futon tractors and their engines but do know a little about the difference between an EGR valve and a smog pump, just had a brain fart when I posted I guess
Time to do a little research, this has me asking questions
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September 7, 2011 at 10:08 pm #33163
Tin,
My TY395 has a solenoid on the end of the intake manifold with a ~1/2″ ID steel tube coming directly from the exhaust manifold. The solenoid is regulated by a jacket water temperature sensor. When the engine reaches a predetermined temperature the solenoid is energized and lets exhaust gasses mix into the intake manifold. This, along with the PCV system, makes for some pretty cruddy intake air, not even sure it's working…
I think with the air pump, air was injected directly into the exhaust manifold just downstream of the ports. Could be wrong tho…
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September 8, 2011 at 1:24 pm #33167
Correct Bob. What you describe on your engine is an EGR circuit. That's why I don't think what is on the Futon has anything to do with recycling exhaust gasses through the intake and re-burning them. Without seeing this setup first hand it sounds like a fresh air pump mounted on the back of the alternator. If that is what this pump does, and the system has a broken check valve, exhaust pressure may overcome the pumps fresh air pressure and allow hot gasses to enter the pump, destroying it.
What I don't understand is the lines from the pump entering the side of the engine, unless the manifold for the AIS ( Air Injection System) is cast into the block. Or, the pump does something else entirely.
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September 8, 2011 at 2:29 pm #33168
Hi Guys,
It is a vacuum pump used to control an actuator for the EGR system. There should be two lines going to the engine block. The pump is lubricated via engine oil. One line feeds oil the other is the oil return.
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September 8, 2011 at 3:49 pm #33169
Wow, I would think a small electric vacuum pump would have been much cheaper.
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September 9, 2011 at 5:28 pm #33176Anonymous
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My first thought was the two lines going in and out of the engine were oil lines.They are simalar through out the tractor.It is a fairly tough looking pump.That would make sense, but Im guessing the pump is not getting oil and that might be why the vanes are being distroyed.Is the small vaccume hose leading from the pump(third hose)to the actuator or the actuator causing all the problems?Yes, I checked the oil and even changed it with a new filter.The new alternator cost $180.00 and lasted 30 min.I can use two vanes from the other pump to fix the pump. HELP??
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September 9, 2011 at 5:34 pm #33177Anonymous
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Where would the check valve be?
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September 9, 2011 at 11:31 pm #33178
OK, Larry said it's a vacuum pump for thr EGR, and he would know since he sold and serviced them (Thank's Larry!). To check if you're getting oil I'd loosen up the fittings (or if the alternator is off) and crank it with the fuel shut off and see if you have oil. The only way no oil would damage the vanes is if it got hot enough on the bearing side to melt the vanes, but something is burning this up real quick. Does the damage seem to be confined to the vanes? Does the unit spin freely?
At the least I can't believe they didn't make a provison for a “mechanical fuel pump” diaphram type vacuum pump instead of this contraption.
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September 10, 2011 at 4:52 pm #33180Anonymous
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I agree 100% on the contraption. So far the only damage is to the vanes. Once the vanes are damaged, they fall out of the slots and jam up the pump and alternator. When I remove the damaged vanes, everything turns freely. I will check the oil flow to the pump. Which makes total sence if the pumps not being lubricated. If there is no oil flow, what next? Thanks again, John burns
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September 10, 2011 at 6:45 pm #33183
Well Larry shed a lot of light on the subject. There should be then, three hoses on the air pump: a) Oil in. b) Air in. c) Air out. I'll speculate that the “oil in” hose has a very small orifice located in it somewhere (provides a slight mist of oil to lubricate the vanes, probably in the fitting where the hose attaches to the side of the engine block oil gallery, however it could also be in the other end of the hose where it attaches to the air pump. It could also be an integral part of the pump. This orifice is probably plugged.
This system is nothing new or unique. It is/was used by GM on a lot of their vehicles, and also BMW, Jaguar, etc. There are also vacuum pumps built for racing.
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September 12, 2011 at 6:38 pm #33192
There should be three lines. Oil in, oil out and vacuum. Without looking I can tell you that the whole EGR system does not work unless you have replaced the vacuum lines. The Chinese rubber lines are normally split by the time the tractor is delivered to the dealer. The vacuum line will run from the pump up to the actuator. The actuator is controlled by an ECM that is normally mounted very near the actuator. Basically when the engine gets up to operating temp then it tells the EGR system to start working. You don't need it. Mine has not worked in two years.
Your options are fix it which I would say is find out why it is not getting lubed. Or do away with it. Depending on your exact setup you may be able to plug the oil lines and just take the pump off. Don't know for sure as I can't see that far.
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September 13, 2011 at 2:00 am #33195
I stand corrected if it is a vacuum pump, however, John said there was a hose that went to the “air intake” and that's what threw me off. And not having a pic to look at (for me) is like shooting blanks in the dark and hoping to hit the bull's eye.
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September 13, 2011 at 10:49 am #33198Anonymous
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Hi guys, I think it was Larry that said to check to see if the oil line is plugged.I had one line plugged.I havn,t been able to try it yet because both pump housings are broke.I had to order another alternator with pump.They don't sell them separately.I was thinking what you said about taking it off and plugging the two holes.That would take care of one problem and expense.I was wondering if it had a real purpose.Thanks again for all the help. John
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September 13, 2011 at 12:15 pm #33200
In the grand scheme of things the extra pollution from one Chinese tractor not having a working EGR circuit will probably not speed global warming up that much.
And your intake air will be that much cooler and cleaner.
And someone at the EPA will still have a job making sure these tractors are imported with all this crapola.
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September 13, 2011 at 12:39 pm #33201
That was me with the “plugged orifice”.
The purpose it serves is all about clean air and air quality. See here.
But just so you know the truth, Larry is correct and it's a matter of symantics. Yes, you are required to have all emission systems working correctly. Will they hunt you down and give you a stiff fine if it isn't? Highly unlikely. Will your engine operate more efficiently if the emissionn system is “broken”? Very much so. Your call.
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September 13, 2011 at 3:29 pm #33203
I agree with Bob's comment about
pictures. It is like shooting in the dark. I maintain that the
Chinese have never built two tractors that are identical. I have had
several in stock with consecutive serial numbers and I could find
differences in them. Some electrical, some mechanical. Pics really
help.Larry
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September 13, 2011 at 8:45 pm #33205
I see plugged fittings and a single wire delco in your future just make sure that there is not any part of the oil path does not starve another part of the engine, maybe to be safe tube between the 2 fittings
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September 13, 2011 at 9:04 pm #33206
Tinbender wrote:
“Not too sure I'd be braggin' about that”
Aye, didn't even think of what I was sayin' y'know.
Dave wrote:
“I see plugged fittings and a single wire delco in your future just make sure that there is not any part of the oil path does not starve another part of the engine, maybe to be safe tube between the 2 fittings.”
Great idea! Another thought would be to just remove the pump from the alternator altogether, but going the Delco Si route is just so much better all around – plus you'll have the ability to use the headlights without draining the battery.
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September 13, 2011 at 11:56 pm #33207
Bob, I agree with Tin. That plugged orifice should be looked at
These alternators normally put out plenty of juice unlike the little ones on the Jinma tractors. Having said that if mine ever gives up it will get the Delco treatment and the vacuum pump and the rest of the unneeded stuff will become history.
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September 14, 2011 at 8:08 am #33208Anonymous
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Good idea on the tubing.Not sure if the hoses have any purpose once i remove the pump.One out and one hose in the side of the engine.
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September 14, 2011 at 7:13 pm #33211“Good idea on the tubing. Not sure if the hoses have any purpose once I remove the pump.”
No, they don't.
“One out and one hose in the side of the engine.”
What does that mean? Please post a picture.
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September 15, 2011 at 9:58 pm #33214
Some of the old goober motors the vacumn pump bolted to the back of the altnator, mabey you could remove the pump nad usr the current altnator
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