Foton 704 electrical / alternator / voltag regulator problem

Bear in mind that it takes no electricity for a diesel engine to run once it has been started. There is no ignition system.

The Alternator should be putting out between 13.5 and 14.5 volts and up to 15 volts when charging a depleted battery.

Without seeing your alternator I could only speculate that your description of the voltage regulator is correct, but being an '07 model it probably is an integrated system.

First I would try to figure out what the output of the OEM alternator is. If it's a meager 14 0r 15 amps, which most are, I would consider upgrading instead. The OEM alternators could barely keep up with the lighting draw let alone put back into the battery that was taken out for starting. Either Ronald at Ranch Hand Supply or Tommy at Affordable Tractor has the upgraded alternator. Don't remember which or if both do.

You also might want to double check all of your electrical and battery cable connections, especially the ground cable, to make sure they are clean and tight.

Nope. It may be a couple of amps either way though. Check your manual to be sure. It'll be rated in watts.

The current I in amps (A) is equal to the power P in watts (W), divided by the voltage V in volts (V):

I_(A) = P_(W) / V_(V)

So amps are equal to watts divided by volts.

amp = watt / volt

The OEM alternator would do just fine if you operated the tractor continuously for at least eight hours without using the lights.

Send me a pic of your Alternator once you get it off , with the number if you can read it. We stock some parts for the Foton tractors with the Perkins, some do have a voltage regulator in the fuse panel

tommy@affordabletractorsalesco.com

Tommy

Affordable Tractor Sales

“Your Jinma Parts Superstore”

http://www.affordabletractorsalesco.com

Yep math is correct. Nominally a 72 amp alternator. It's likely that you have an integral voltage regulator given the absence of one in the likely location. Alternators produce AC current that is converted to DC through the diode pack within the alternator housing. You could have a blown diode or have a bad voltage regulator. These are fairly inexpensive fixes if you can do the work yourself. If you have a TEFC alternator housing I strongly recommend that you stay with that style.

Forgot that you have a ~70 HP tractor. Yes, they will have a higher output alternator than the smaller tractors.

Is the belt driving the alternator tight – not loose enough to slip at all?

My experience with regulators on my Jinma has been limited. I did find that the regulator was plugged into the strip holding the fuses – yours might be similarly situated. Also if you find the regulator, check that it is properly inserted (mine is a plug in unit) – I had to put a ziptie around mind to stop it vibrating out slightly – enough to affect the voltage output. I have replaced my regulator and if memory serves, it was around $20 or so – quite cheap really.

Might be better to go to another larger alternator that could give you more power than you need. The Chinese ones tend to be marginal where output is concerned. I will check the one on my Jinma 554 if that would be of any use.

Hi Joe

 I have the YTO 704 which I believe has the same alternator JFZ 1512Y-2FE   14V 50A , mine is an integrated unit with only 1 wire, it also has 2 small wires which supply a signal to the Tachometer.

  I have up to 14.5 volts of output depending on battery charge, my alternator has 1000 hours on it with no issues so far.

 Troy