Front end loade stalling engine

Forum Forums Tractor Troubleshooting Front end loade stalling engine

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    • #30753
      Bob
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        2005 Jinma 284 withreadinreadinreadin ZL 20 font end loader.  Having problem with loader stalling (killing) engine when it hits end of travel.  It alway went in to bypass mode  when the loader was raised all the way, until I let go of the control.  Now, no scream, no forgieness at all – just immediately kills engine.  No trouble restarting, or loss of functions – all movements are there.

         

        Also seems like there is more air getting into the hy fluid, or that it is getting hot.  Installed new pump and proportioning valve several years ago and that doesn't seem to be the trouble.  I recollect that the system uses the loader valve for the releif ( bypass ) function, and will check on that valve. 

         

        Anyone have a similar problem and have some advice.  The loader has always worked flawlessly ( of course, without the float and power beyound functions  that the aftermarket valves have ).

      • #35924
        Tinbender
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          Is it the new or old style valve?

        • #35925
          RichWaugh
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            Sounds like your relief valve in the loader control isn't opening when it should.  Pull it apart and clean it and reassemble and see if that helps.

          • #35926
            ronjin
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              I would not operate it that way for fear of blowing up the hydraulic pump.  I would get a pressure gauge on it and see how much hydraulic pressure there is that causes the engine to stop.

              RonJ

              ronjin

            • #35927
              Bob
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                The loader valve is the old style.  I do have a liquid filled pressure gauge in the line, and will make sure not to let the pressure become a problem befrore I get it cleaned up.  I'm cleaning the valve tomorrow, and hope that is what it is.

                 

                What is the procedure for setting the valve once it has been cleaned?  I will mark where the lock nut is now, and go from there?  This loader has worked great since it was new, I use it almost every day for chores/helping neighbors, etc. 

              • #35928
                RichWaugh
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                  Start with it looser than it was and work up to where it opens (bypasses) at about 2200-2300 psig.

                • #35929
                  Bob
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                    I haven't had time to clean the valve today..but found something interesting.  I have been losing hydraulic fluid through the air breather on the reservoir for years, and have just been adding fluid-easier than dealing wih the problem.

                     

                    Yesterday I adjusted the hich control valve because it seemed like my implements were just immediatey dropping when I lowered them-and the displaced fluid was going back into the reservoir so fast that it was gushing out of the breather ( the hole in the reservoir bolt cap under the seat ).

                     

                    After adjusting the lower speed to a slow drop, no fluid loss, and hydraulics working much better.  Should have dealt with this sooner!!  Hope to get the valve cleaned tommorrow/Bob

                     

                    PS:   be sure to loosen the set screw on the valve before adjusting, then retighten the set screw when the valve is set right – and a little moement of the valve makes a big change-go slow!   CW to lower drop speed ( float ), CCW to increase drop speed.     

                  • #35946
                    Bob
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                      THANKS!!

                       

                      I Took apart the byass ( relief ) valve today, and cleaned the parts, lubed the parts up, and reassembled the valve.

                       

                      I set the bypass pressure at about 1800 PSI gauge.  Works lik a new tractor!!

                       

                      Appreciate the help from the responders!

                       

                      Bob 

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