Head torque and valve adjustment |

This topic has 16 replies, 7 voices, and was last updated 13 years, 9 months ago by lenbo.

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- March 8, 2011 at 6:33 pm #30203
  lenbo
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  I have a 2007 Jinma 354 with a 35 hp four cylinder. The operation manual I got with it was a poor copy of the orginal. I think I read some place that the head bolts should be re-torqued and the valve space checked at 50 hours. I curently have 60 hours and if I need to do this I certainly can, but don't know the ft lbs of the torque on the bolts or the inch/mm of the spacing of the valves.
  
  Do I need to do the maintenance? If so anyone know the specks?
  
  Thanks
  
  LenBo
- March 8, 2011 at 7:15 pm #31567
  Tinbender
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  I would call Ranch Hand or Affordable (under “our dealers” at the top of the page) for the specs. 50hrs is correct on the maintenance schedule.
- March 9, 2011 at 9:40 am #31573
  Carl Darnell
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  If you retorque the head bolts do one bolt at a time starting in the bolt torque pattern. Loosen the bolt and then retorque it the correct ft lb. If you just put a torque wrench on the bolt and try to tighten it most likely the bolt won't move because they take a set and have a very high break away torque to move them.
- March 9, 2011 at 12:03 pm #31575
  bg
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  Do the maintenance! I put off doing mine on my 284 and the head gasket blew out after about 400 hrs. Lots more work to replace the gasket. My valve lash was out of adjustment and since the maintenance my 284 starts, runs , puurrs real nice. Sorry , can't help with the settings on your engine, but I torqued my head bolts to apprx. 105 ft.lbs. Like Tin says, call Tommy or Ronald they will know the correct settings . BG
- March 10, 2011 at 8:48 pm #31590
  lenbo
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  I contacted Ronald and the head bolt torque is 140 ft lbs
  
  Intake valve adjustment is 20mm
  
  Exhaust valve adjustment is 25mm
  
  Thanks
  
  LenBo
- March 11, 2011 at 8:42 am #31591
  RichWaugh
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  I'll buy the 140 ft/lb head bolt torque, but not the valve lash measurements. Those would be 3/4″ and 1″,respectively, and the valves would never move. Probably you meant 0.20mm (.008″) and 0.25mm (.010″), right?
- March 11, 2011 at 10:23 am #31592
  Tinbender
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  That would be a bit noisy if it did fire up
- March 11, 2011 at 12:08 pm #31593
  Bob Rooks
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  Actually, that is a cold setting. Do this when the engine is cold.
  
  FYI: When the engine is at operating temp and loaded, both dimensions will be approximately the same. The exhaust valve will “grow” that much.
  
  Account deleted.
- March 11, 2011 at 7:59 pm #31595
  lenbo
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  Rich, Tinbender & Bob:
  
  You are right. I should have put the it at 0.20mm & 0.25mm (engine cold)>
  
  I'll take my hearing protedtion off to see how loud it is 🙂
  
  Thanks much for the correction. I'll work on it tomorrow and post my results. I also got my Pince pump for the LW7 BH today. I am currently modifing the fittings to my hoses. I'll post the resluts on the topic for my BH that I posted.
  
  Thanks
  
  LenBo
- March 12, 2011 at 8:54 pm #31607
  Carl Darnell
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  I hope you do the head bolt torque correctly as well.
- March 12, 2011 at 9:05 pm #31608
  lenbo
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  I got the sequence of the bolt locations from the printed manual so I should be alright. Still working on my BH with the new pump, the shops I took the hoses & fittings messed up (I should have taken charge but they had limited fittings and knowledge).
  
  I hope to pull the valve cover tomorrow and set the valves.
  
  Thanks
  
  LenBo
- March 13, 2011 at 8:21 pm #31639
  lenbo
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  The engine ran well as is, but needed to do the the 50 hr. maintenance. I pulled the valve cover off today then took the rocker arm assembly off and re-torquesd the head bolts @140 ft lbs. Checked the valve lash and found most valves to be less than the specks of 0.20 – 0.25mm for the intake and 0.25 – 0.30mm for exhaust. I set the intake at .022mm and the exhaust at .027mm.
  
  Runs great. Now the sensor for the temp gauge went out. The needle pegs out at high temp when I turn the key on with a cold engine. Will have to order a new sensor unit.
  
  Thanks
  
  LenBo
- March 13, 2011 at 9:00 pm #31643
  Bob Rooks
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  Are you sure you didn't break a wire in the process? Could be a simple fix.
  
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- March 13, 2011 at 9:05 pm #31645
  SpringValley
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  I would remove the wire from the sender to make sure before I bought another one. If the gauge stays pegged out when disconnected the wire is grounded out somewhere.
- March 13, 2011 at 9:27 pm #31647
  lenbo
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  The guage peged out right after I put the new PTO pump on and before I started working in the engine area to set the head torque/valve setting. I checked the wire and when I remove the wire the guage bottoms out. I pulled the sensor out, tapped it a few times, put it back in and still pegs out when I turn the key on. Turn the key off and the guage bottoms out.
- March 13, 2011 at 9:43 pm #31648
  Bob Rooks
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  That's wierd. “Tapping” a transducer (sending unit) usually does more harm than good, but you win.
  
  Account deleted.
- March 16, 2011 at 3:27 pm #31682
  lenbo
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  I guess I grew up in the era when if something didn't work right we gave it a rap, it either worked or we replaced it. Remember to B&W TVs, when the picture started to flip or went ou,t an easy fix was to hit the side ot the TV, if it kept having a problem we would look at the tubes to see if they were glowing. then take some tubes out and take to the hardware store and plug them in their tube tester.
  
  Anyway that was the old days. I got a new sending unit (sensor) from Afordable today, put it in and now the temp guage works fine.
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