How to setup a scraper blade?

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    • January 18, 2015 at 11:59 pm #30986
      Lonnie Harding
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        Hi guys.
        I have a 2007 Jinma 284 with Fel and frame mount backhoe. Took the backhoe off for the first time in 6 years and hooked up the 5′ scraper blade KENO had included as a freeby. Do not know name of blade. Anyway hookup went fine but I quickly discover two things; 1 – I have no idea how to set up a scraper blade and 2 – I have no idea how to use one. Looked on the tube university site and found lots of videos on box blades but no scraper blades. I want to work on my dirt drive way.
        Any help appreciate especially with the setup. Angle of attack, depth of cut, etc.

        Lonnie

      • January 25, 2015 at 1:08 pm #37469
        yocsr
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            Sorry to say but the main thing I use a back blade for is plowing snow. It's hard to beat a box blade for working a drive. I work probably 3/4 mile of drive. Lengthen toplink for cutting. For smoothing or just working up the top on rock drive turn the blade backwards and shorten toplink. It all works opposite for a box blade.

        • January 25, 2015 at 1:28 pm #37471
          DavidPrivett
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            I think that the biggest problem with those is they are not heavy enough for a lot of uses they have a tendency to bounce since tractors usually do not have down pressure, they depend on weight for down force. Even box blades have this issue but it is easier to add weight to them, I have added around 150 lbs. to mine.

          • February 1, 2015 at 12:27 pm #37480
            fido
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              Ditto on the weights. I hang 2 old tractor wheel weights, 100lbs each on mine otherwise it just scratches the gravel around. I also had to play with the pitch and angle a while before it would cut. All of those change again when I use it for snow. When I need to reshape an area, I need some moisture in the ground too.

              Code 347 CLDTI

            • February 3, 2015 at 9:16 pm #37488
              Lonnie Harding
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                Thanks guys, I have learned a lot from this group. Currently doing the trial and error degree program. Seems to be working ok but I do believe a box blade is Going to be on top of this years Santa letter. I’ll also try adding some weight. Thanks again for the advise.

              • February 4, 2015 at 9:26 am #37490
                davoth
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                  The best addition I made is a hydraulic top-link. It makes anything you add way more versatile especially a rear blade. By changing the angle a bit as you need you can dig a little as well. I find my 7' blade very useful even without any rear weight. Plus attaching any implement way easier as you can adjust length as you need. Probably the best single relatively cheap addition I have made.

                   

                  Dave

                • March 25, 2015 at 9:18 pm #37558
                  Grumpy
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                    Ditto on the hydraulic top links!!

                  • March 26, 2015 at 12:51 pm #37559
                    Bob Rooks
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                      Agreed on the hydraulic top link. I even took it one step further and added a three point quick hitch. I change implements in seconds now instead of minutes.

                      Account deleted.

                    • March 28, 2015 at 11:09 am #37561
                      yocsr
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                          I've been thinking about getting a hydraulic top link, after reading what you guys wrote I ordered one from agri store. I've got a quick hitch, but found some of my older equipment wouldn't hook up.

                      • March 29, 2015 at 12:32 pm #37563
                        Bob Rooks
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                          I had that issue too. A lot of manufacturers seem to think they don't need to conform to ASABE dimension standards for whatever reason. I just made adapters so they would work with the quick hitch.

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