Forum › Forums › Tractor Troubleshooting › Hydraulic fluid emptying into engine sump
- This topic has 3 replies, 4 voices, and was last updated 12 years, 4 months ago by circleg.
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July 29, 2012 at 8:35 am #30629
I've borrowed my brother's Siromer 304 while my old Fergie is getting an overhaul, and was very puzzled to find the hydraulic fluid transferring to the engine sump. Figured the shaft seal on the pump must have gone, but the rate the fluid shifted to the sump seemed much greater than could flow through a worn seal. Replaced the seal and still have the same problem. Reading the posts it seems that the hydraulics have been 'deadheaded' and the pump 'blown'. This figures because my brother removed the front loader before he gave me the tractor, so I guess (from previous posts) the cause is probably the quick release coupling which hadn't been otherwise disturbed for years. My question is will the pump need replacing or will a new set of seals be all that's required (after I fix the blockage)?
CTOA - Founder
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July 29, 2012 at 4:16 pm #34933
I'm a relative novice at this, so take my opinion with a grain of salt. If the seals on the pump need replacing I would expect hydraulic fluid would spray everywhere rather than transferring to the engine sump. At least that was my experience when my pump was deadheaded.
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July 29, 2012 at 8:39 pm #34935
If you just blew the seals, then the pump will dump the hydraulic fluid into the engine sump pretty quickly – that's a 7+ gpm pump so it doesn't take a lot of time to empty a 5 or 6 gallon hydraulic reservoir.
Since it did pump the fluid into the sump, it must be developing some fair pressure, so I would think that the pump might be okay and just need new seals. Often when these pumps blow they split the pump housing so you have pretty graphic evidence of the problem.
Since you replaced the seals and it seems to still pump fluid into the sump, I'd guess that the pump is still deadheading somewhere and has blown the new seals. I's start by checking the quick couplings and make sure that they're working correctly and coupled together so they can pass fluid around the system properly. You may want to remove the couplings and simply hard-plumb the hoses together for now to be sure the problem isn't in that joint. Other guys just remove the check balls form the QCs so they can't deadhead – your choice, I guess.
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August 6, 2012 at 2:04 pm #34960
I second what Rich said. Although I will say it is fairly easy to pull that pump apart and visually inspect it. It will be obvious if the seals or pump body is damaged. More than likely it is not damaged.
Benjamin Bolden
Parts Manager
Circle G Tractor Sales, Inc.
(662)252-5272-phone
(662)252-7789-fax
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