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What could cause tractor hydraulics (fel and 3 pt.) to stop working after running for about one hour? It is a 2005 FarmPro 2430 (Jinma 304) with a Koyker 160 loader with joystick control. The hydraulics start working again after cooling down. Has two hydraulic pumps. The power steering pump works ok.
Any advice appreciated. -
A couple of things come to mind.
The fluid viscosity is too low
There is air in the system
If the viscosity goes down (when hot) to the point that it can not “push” you loose efficiency to the point that it appears to stop working.
If your fluid is getting air drawn into it the results will be the same, loss of viscosity.
In both cases either cooling down or allowing the air to rise out of the mix will restore functionality.
Have you checked the fluid for level, cleanliness, air (or water) entrainment?
What is the temperature of the fluid when it stops working? You should be able to touch the loader control valve without being burned.
Do you know the type of fluid that is currently in the tractor?
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Thanks, David and Piper. I’m not very knowledgeable in hydraulics….only know the basics. Just trying to figure out the next steps to take to solve the problem.
To answer your questions: I’m using AW32 fluid here in North Carolina and it has been regularly around 90 degrees here lately when I operate the tractor. I have not checked the fluid for air or loss of viscosity. When the hydraulics stop working, the tractor is hot ( but not overly hot because temp gauge is around 80 degrees centigrade) and the fel control is not too hot to the touch.
I’ve wondered it it could the the quick disconnects? The pump and Koyker joystick would have two of the original Chinese QDs and two Koyker QDs. Was thinking maybe after getting hot the QDs stop functioning and the pressure relief valve kicks in. Would that cause both the fel and the three pt. to stop working? Or could it be something in the hydraulic pump to cause it to stop pumping fluid?
Again, thanks for your advice. I guess the next step would to to run it until the hydraulics stop working and then quickly take off the hydraulic fluid reservoir cover and try to see if air is in it. While in there I would also check the in tank filter for blockage. Appreciate your help!
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I am not familiar with your exact tractor so the following is based off of my Jinma 284 which should be similar.
The hydraulic tank is under the seat with a fill plug behind the seat. The 3-point cylinder is inside the tank. There is a filter inside the tank (strainer really) that screens the oil as it is sucked out on its way to the pump.
Fluid from the pump goes to a hose with a quick coupler. If the FEL is installed the fluid goes through the loader valve then exits and connects to the tractor through another coupler.
From there it goes to the 3-point valve and eventually dumps back into the tank. (Mine is different in that it only has one pump and uses a priority valve to power the steering).
If the quick coupler were a problem it would likely dead-head the pump and probably destroy it, at least blow a hose off. It wouldn’t recover from that after a cool down.
One quick and easy test is to put some weight on the 3-pt. and run it until the FEL stops working. Put the bucket and 3 point down, turn off the engine. Then disconnect the couplers and plug the tractor side lines into each other, thus taking the FEL out of the circuit. Start the tractor and see if the 3 point will raise. If it works the problem is in the FEL. I suspect it won’t work, but at least we will have eliminated a possibility.
Next, take out the fill plug and suck some fluid up with something. Suck gun, large syringe, turkey baster, anything that will allow you to get a sample into a transparent container. If the fluid is milky or hazy looking it may have air in it. Let it sit for an hour or two and see if it clears up. If there is air in the fluid you probably have a suction side leak somewhere. Post a picture if you can.
One question about this. Just before the hydraulics quit, do you notice any difference in the operation of the FEL? Slow to respond or jerkiness?
Do you have a manual for this tractor? I am curious as to where the pressure relief valve is located?
At this point since your problem only shows up “hot” I am leaning more towards a problem with the fluid as a mechanical failure is less likely to start working again.
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Thanks for the very clear explanations, Piper. I do not notice any jerkiness or odd behavior in the FEL before it quits. I do have a manual for the tractor but not the one that came with it…. destroyed in a garage fire in 2009. So, I do not know exactly where the pressure relief valve is located. I’m pretty sure there is one on the loader at the bottom of the joystick (see attachment just below the rubber boot) but would rather not mess with it as I have read that you should not increase the pressure setting that was set at the factory.
Think I will try what you suggest. First get it to stop working and take the FEL circuit out of the loop. If it still doesn’t work, take a sample of hydraulic fluid from the reservoir to check for air. Glad you told me it probably isn’t the quick disconnects. I guess it could be the fluid too low…. I usually run it low on purpose. I found out if I fill it all the way up on the fill indicator, then it leaks out the breather. The field I bushhog is not flat but is not real hilly either. Maybe after an hour or so, the fluid has had enough time to absorb air and that is when it stops working.
Because (1) I do not use the tractor regularly (only have around 400 hrs. and I bought it in 2005) and (2) it will take around 1 hr. to get it to stop working, I will probably not get around to it immediately. But when I do, I will be sure to follow up here as to my findings. Thanks again!!
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