I bent the bucket curl cylinder rods – Help

Forum Forums Tractor Operation And Maintenance I bent the bucket curl cylinder rods – Help

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    • #30421
      RichWaugh
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        I was using the Jinma loader the other day and bent the bucket cylinder
        rods. Both of them; one really badly (45ï½° bend) and the other not as
        bad but still bad. I had to use the press to straighten them and that
        screwed up the chrome on the rods, of course. They should be replaced,
        but I'm using them so far. They aren't leaking yet, but they surely
        will. I have absolutely NO idea why they bent that way – I wasn't doing
        anything but moving some loose dirt when my bucket curl started making a
        horrible groaning noise (relief valve, probably) and my brother noticed
        the rods were pretzled.

        My main problem is, OEM replacements are $400 each – ouch! And that's
        before I ship them to the Virgin Islands. I'd like to use after-market
        cylinders that could be had for considerably less than half that, but
        there are none I can find available in the same configuration. The OEM
        cylinders are 2″ and about 34″ long, but only have about a 22″ rod in
        them. So, here's the question:

        Is there any reason I couldn't use standard 2″x24″ cylinders and
        relocate the top cylinder mounting points to part way down the arms?
        Such cylinders can be had for about $150 each and the relocation work
        wouldn't take more than half a day. A few hose ends or adapters and I'd
        be good to go, I think.

        What say those of you who know way more than I do about such things?

      • #33415
        Bob Rooks
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          Sorry to hear that Rich.

          Look closely to see how the aftermarket cylinders would change the pin-to-pin geometry when the bucket is fully uncurled (dumped).

          Account deleted.

        • #33417
          RichWaugh
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            I looked at that some Bob, and it looks to me as though it should be no change.  The OEM setup has the cylinder operating basically parallel to the loader arms, though at the very end of the dump stroke they actually cause the rods to flex when the hit the arms.  Going to the shorter cylinders would actually eliminate the end-of-stroke flexing, I think, as the closer attachment point would allow the rods to just clear the arm ends at full extension.  Even if not, I could raise the attachment point a half inch ad achieve the clearance that way.

            My objective on the new mounts would be to avoid the flexing in the old arrangement and also to use the cylinder stop to limit the bucket travel on extension.  The OEM setup, using shortened rods (well, actually extended cylinders and a short rod) looks to have been done that way to put the attachment point at the “bend” in the arms and use the gusset plate as the attachment point.  The OEM cylinders actually have a couple inches more travel than needed, so they try to force the bucket on full extension, flexing the rods over the end of the arms.   By making a new attachment plate part way down the arms I could set it so that the curl cylinders were at full extension when the bucket was at full dump, thus using the cylinder stops to prevent the rods from flexing over the end of the arms.  I think.

            If I use attachment plates that are sufficiently wide, I don't see any issues of excessively concentrating forces in the middle of the loader arms.  The geometry of the bucket curl shouldn't be changed and it should function as before, minus the tendency to flex the rods at full extension.  Again, I think.  I'm not an engineer, obviously, just a poor broke-down old blacksmith with a thin wallet.

          • #33419
            Affordable
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              Rich, I bought out Jinma Dealer and have several of the new ZL-30 Loader cylinders, send me a e-mail I think we can get you fixed up pretty reasonable

              tommy@affordabletractorsalesco.com

              Tommy

              Affordable Tractor Sales

              “Your Jinma Parts Superstore”

              http://www.affordabletractorsalesco.com

            • #33420
              RichWaugh
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                Email coming your way, Tommy, thanks!

                Rich

              • #33487
                DavidPrivett
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                  a  good hydro shop can straighten out the arms and replace the seals and take out some of the burring you added.

                • #33488
                  RichWaugh
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                    Moot point, David.  Tommy has gotten me fixed up and I'll be replacing them with new OEM cylinders. The other issue is that there are no hydraulic shops in the Virgin Islands and it isn't cost effective to ship the damaged cylinders out to have them re-manufactured.

                    I'll be doing a bunch of mod work to the loader bucket mounts and cylinder mounts to correct a geometry issue that causes the cylinder rods to flex over the loader arms at full uncurl.

                  • #33493
                    DavidPrivett
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                      is there much call for a hydro shop you could fall back on a new diversification like we need more to do

                    • #33496
                      RichWaugh
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                        That's a two-part question.  First answer is, no.  Second answer is, Hell no!  If I diversify any more I'll have to clone myself – again.roflmao

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