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Been a while since I posted. Having issues with 254 tractor. Progressively for several months has been reving/racing the rpm and idle has been poor. Been getting worse. This trip tractor starts then races to 3000 rpm and I have to shut down quick. Then wont start at all. If I put a little starting fluid in air intake I can get it to start with some difficulty and have little control of rpm level and it does not respond to throttle position. After warming up some it does run better and I do have better control of rpm. I noticed that the fluid level in the injector dip stick tube is at the very top and it does seem to have a diesel odor. When the tractor is running this fluid is sucked in and the dip stick tube is empty. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
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ULS diesel fuel has relatively poor lubricating properties since most of the sulfur has been removed making it even more important to change the oil in your fuel injection pump/governor assembly on a more timely basis. It’s very likely that you have run some dirty/moist fuel and it has corroded the barrel and plunger assemblies allowing them to leak by into the sump. When the sump level goes down after it’s started indicates that the level is above the governor flyweights and is being thrown about inside the housing. This isn’t good as it adds additional side loading to the flyweights and makes them less responsive to load/throttle changes.
My advice is to change the oil in the injection pump/governor right away using the same oil as in the engine, and to monitor it closely. Shut off the fuel valve at the tank after every use
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If you are not familiar with diesel injection systems find a mech. I would not start it as 3000 rpm it could go bang, clank and quiet and possibly hurt you, run away condition not good . but I think you need a injector pump. I do not believe anyone rebuilds them here. And most likely a oil change too. Others will crime in.
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Finally made it back to the camp. As advised by Bob, thanks Bob, changed the injector pump oil. About 10 oz of something between diesel fuel and 30 wt oil came out. Replaced with 15-40 oil used for engine and wouldn’t you know it within minutes was running well. Normal throttle control, no runaway at all. My pump has a small dip stick, and with the rec 4 oz of oil did not register. Put in 2 more and was about half way between marks. Tractor runs great. Only residual issue is fuel cut off/kill mechanism sticks in the kill position. It actually has been doing this for some time. Moves to shut off no problem, but spring return is not reliable. No amount of spray lube on the spring and lever arm change much. It may be getting a little better but not enough time to be sure. So now I have a machine that runs well but is nothing more than a diesel wheelbarrow used to move things around the yard. NO 4 WHEEL DRIVE. I have done everything I can think of. Slugs made from hardened steel rod in place of ball bearings , judicious use of 4 wheel drive, nothing seem to hold up and at my camp 4 wheel is a must. Has anyone heard of a permanent connection between front and back, something welded. I know this may damage gears and make future repair harder, but as I said right now I have a big wheel barrow and nothing else, so what to loose.
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If the Oil in the injector Pump was completely full and you r RPMs are racing, then you have a pump that is about ready to go out. The injection pumps only require between 4-6 oz of Oil. The best oil to use is ISO 100 Air Compressor Oil-If the Oil tank on the pump fills up again chances are you have Diesel leaking into the tank and you will eventually need to replace the pump
Tyler Nystrom
Keno Tractors
parts@kenotractors.com
866-363-8193
Phone hours: M-F 8am to 5:30pm PST Sat 9am to 1pm PST -
Diesel getting into the governor portion of the injector pump does not necessarily mean the injector pump is bad.
When this happened to me I determined that the fuel was coming from the lift pump actuator pin seal. I replaced the seal and it only lasted a few hours. I removed the lift pump and made a cover plate for the hole. There was an electric pulse pump sitting on my shelf so I plumbed that in and connected it to the fuse block on a circuit that is hot only with the key on.
Works fine and there has been no fuel in the governor section since then. $40 for a lift pump vs. $500+ for an injection pump.
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If the Oil in the injector Pump was completely full and you r RPMs are racing, then you have a pump that is about ready to go out. The injection pumps only require between 4-6 oz of Oil. The best oil to use is ISO 100 Air Compressor Oil-If the Oil tank on the pump fills up again chances are you have Diesel leaking into the tank and you will eventually need to replace the pump
With all due respect, we have been down this road before. There is not one single governor manufacturer that recommends compressor oil, including Bosch, Stanadyne, and Woodward, and they all recommend 30w, 10w/30, or the same oil that’s used in the engine. I have been through the Woodward governor school in Ft. Collins and this topic was discussed to some length. There is absolutely no justification for using compressor oil. It just unnecessarily adds to the inventory. Cat engine governors are internally lubricated with engine oil, as are many of the Chinese diesel engines. The Woodward governors on EMD engines that I ran for over twenty years all ran 10w/30 synthetic oil. This isn’t rocket science. The compressor oil recommendation came from someone years ago because they were under the impression that the fuel injection pump acted like an air compressor. Well, we know that’s just not true. There aren’t any parts in a fuel injection pump that even remotely resemble any in an air compressor. You can also check the formulations and draw your own conclusion. Just because you have been doing something for years, doesn’t mean you have been doing it correctly.
In addition, just because the barrel and plungers are slightly leaking by doesn’t mean there is immanent pump failure. Pumps have run in this condition for thousands of hours.
Thanks for your consideration.
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Diesel getting into the governor portion of the injector pump does not necessarily mean the injector pump is bad. When this happened to me I determined that the fuel was coming from the lift pump actuator pin seal. I replaced the seal and it only lasted a few hours. I removed the lift pump and made a cover plate for the hole. There was an electric pulse pump sitting on my shelf so I plumbed that in and connected it to the fuse block on a circuit that is hot only with the key on. Works fine and there has been no fuel in the governor section since then. $40 for a lift pump vs. $500+ for an injection pump.
Exactly. My Mitsubishi excavator has no mechanical lift pump at all. Came from the factory with a Stewart Warner electric pump, and has been working well since I don’t know when.
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