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Over time the clutch pedal free play on my Jinma 284 has been increasing to the point where I now have 2″ – 2 1/2″ of pedal travel before I feel the throwout bearing contacting the clutch. Also, the PTO shaft remains engaged with the clutch pedal fully depressed.
I tried adjusting the clutch linkage to reduce the free play but at the limit of the linkage adjustment I still have 1 1/2″ of free play and the PTO shaft still seems to be engaged with the clutch pedal fully depressed. I checked where the clutch linkage connects to the clutch cross shaft and did not see any free play at that connection.
Any thoughts about what might be failing and what I should look for? The tractor has 825 hours on the meter.
Jinma 284, logging winch, post hole digger, pallet forks, backhoe, back blade
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You need to adjust your clutch, the free play is the last part of the adjustment
Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales
“Your Jinma Parts Superstore”
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I did have the roll pin shear two years ago and installed hardened American made roll pins at that time. I checked play at that point and it looked good.
Okay Tommy, I'll try adjusting the clutch. Is the procedure posted by Spiker on Johnstractor website still the definitive document on adjusting the Jinma clutch or are there other wirteups I should be referencing in addition to the procedure by Spiker?
Jinma 284, logging winch, post hole digger, pallet forks, backhoe, back blade
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Well I removed the front loader & bracket to gain access to the clutch bell housing. First step was to label each of 3 PTO adjustment and clutch finger adjustment points. Using a clutch adjustment procedure I found on another tractoer website, I adjusted the clearance on the PTO adjustment nuts to 0.035″. Prior to adjustment the clearances ranged from 0.036″ to 0.048″.
ALong the way I noticed that I had a lot of rotational freeplay between the clutch external linkage arm and the clutch crossshaft, so I pulled out the rollpin that holds them together. The pin came out in pieces, so It had fractuired. I put in new rollpins, an outer M8 pin and an inner M5 rollpin. I had replaced the rollpins five years ago with high quality american made rollpins, so apparently even this is not a permanent solution
Before beginning the clutch finger to throwout bearing adjustment, I adjusted the external clutch linkage (clevis & threaded rod) to about midpoint in its adjustment range. I made a 1/16″ feeler gage out of a strip of 1/16″ stainless steel and used that to set the clutch finger to throwout bearing clearance. This yielded about 1″ of clutch pedal freeplay.
I'm happy to report that both the main and pto clutches are working well again. The PTO is now completely disengaged with about one inch of pedal movement remaining. Also, there was no dust in the bell housing and the clutch fingers and throwout bearing seemed fine.
The clutch linkage is clearly a weak point in the tractor. Does anybody have a better solution than harder rollpins? I would pay big bucks for a cross shaft and external linkage arm with splines rather than rollpins.
Jinma 284, logging winch, post hole digger, pallet forks, backhoe, back blade
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If you are lucky enough to have a tractor implement or tooling manufacturer nearby that would be a piece of cake for them. I'm fortunate to have these guys right in town, and they can make anything
http://www.newhouse-mfg.com/
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