Forum › Forums › Tractor Troubleshooting › Jinma 284 heavy exhaust smoke (blue)
- This topic has 6 replies, 3 voices, and was last updated 2 years, 9 months ago by DavidPrivett.
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March 9, 2022 at 8:19 pm #49794
This is a 2013 with 70 hrs. It’s been sitting in the garage unused for the past six months. Charged up the battery and started the engine with no issues. Allowed to idle for five minutes and then advanced the RPM to 1000 and drove it outdoors to cycle the hydraulics. The engine runs steady and smooth with no unusual noises, however, it is producing heavy blue smoke through the entire RPM range. I confess, the fuel is not fresh and has been in the tank for over ten months. The head has not been retorqued nor the valves adjusted. I don’t have much diesel experience so am looking for input on where to start troubleshooting instead of going after it willy nilly. I’m aware blue smoke typically indicates oil burn but would like to eliminate the easy stuff first before focusing on possible internal component failure. Thanks.
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March 9, 2022 at 9:00 pm #49795
with only 70 hours it might not be broke in. hahahahaha You will get more smoke possibly bluish until the engine comes up to operating temps. I would check all your fluids including if yours has a oil reservoir in the injector pump. (that one gets forgot alot) make sure the crankcase does not have to much oil in it. some of these engines are kinda funky about how their dipsticks are read , mine you have to pull the dipstick wipe it off and reinsert it and then read it. and yes white smoke is coolant ,black is over fueling and blue oil. I think you need to retorque the head and set the valves before you forget and possibly have a issue.
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March 10, 2022 at 9:26 am #49796
Have you had this tractor since new? If not, do you know what oil is in the engine?
Which engine is in a 2013?
Was the fuel tank full while it was parked? If not I would at least drain the sediment bowl and check for contamination. If any is found I would also replace the fuel filter, just because of the potential for “diesel bugs”. I don’t think diesel has the same aging problems that gasoline does, as long as you keep it water free.
In any case, yes blue indicates burning oil. I have seen new air cooled gas engines that were not properly broken in develop a glaze on the cylinder walls and the rings could not get seated properly so they burned oil like crazy. Don’t know if this could be a problem with a liquid cooled diesel or not, but it is something to think about.
You could pull samples from the fuel, crankcase and coolant for analysis. That will give you confirmation of quality/usefulness and tell if there are any cross contamination issues. At least that way you will have a baseline of information.
Even if everything tests ok, I would consider changing oil and filter at a minimum. Run it a few hours and pull another oil sample for comparison
Good luck and let us know what you find out.
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March 11, 2022 at 2:13 pm #49797
Thanks for your responses. I did buy it new and have maintained the engine oil with 30 wt per the dealer’s recommendation. It has the 3 cyl Y385 eng. Will start with retorquing the head and valve adjustments and then check fuel system (filter/sediment bowl) for contaminants. Hopefully others will respond with additional recommendations.
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March 12, 2022 at 2:05 pm #49798
This is going to sound weird and unbelievable but was my experience.
We rebuild a Lycoming aircraft engine and broke it in by the book. All was well but the oil consumption was more than I thought it should be. However it was just inside the “acceptable” oil use stated by Lycoming. One day I related this to an old school type mechanic and he asked what oil I was using. Aeroshell semi-synthetic. He said change to Phillips 66 straight mineral oil. I asked why was it that much better? Nope, but sometimes an engine just won’t like one oil or the other, if you had said Phillips I would have recommended going to Aeroshell.
Baffled and thinking this was more “wives tale” I switched at the next oil change and the oil consumption dropped more than 75%! At the next oil change I went back to Aeroshell since there was still some on the shelf and oil consumption went back up. Went back to Phillips and gave away my last few bottles of Aeroshell. I can’t explain it but that engine just didn’t like Aeroshell but only after the overhaul.
Switching brands and viscosity might be an interesting experiment for you to try.
The only other thing that I can think of is you may have a stuck piston ring after it sat for a while. In that case I would try what ever brand of “magic snake oil” additive you want. Something like Marvel Mystery oil, Sea Foam, etc. Something to help clean and maybe free up a stuck ring. Of course, they sometimes correct themselves with some use.
If the simple things don’t make a difference you may have to pull the head to see what is going on inside the engine. I have never done that on this model engine, but it seems pretty straight forward and should be easy especially with so few hours on it.
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March 12, 2022 at 2:39 pm #49799
Thanks Piper184, I was going to change oil/filter as well. I also thought I may have a stuck ring after sitting so long. An oil additive is certainly worth a try before opting for the heavier maintenance. Incidentally, I also have experience on the Lycoming (IO360) aircraft engine from my Air Force days.
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March 13, 2022 at 3:34 pm #49800
this is apples and oranges but I can confirm engines and oil likes and dislikes ,the wifes 2006 chevy hhr with a 2.2 liter if I put synthetic oil in it , it will burn a qt. in about 2500 miles if I use conventional oil the oil consumption is zero. since it does not leak a drip synthetic it has to be getting by the rings or valve seals and being burnt, wierd. although I have heard if you have a oil leak synthetic oil will make it leak more cause it has more lubricity.
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