- This topic has 7 replies, 4 voices, and was last updated 8 years, 10 months ago by
.
-
Posts
-
-
I had to replace my key switch. Am I to understand that on the replacement that to heat the glow plugs I have to move the key to the spring loaded ‘H’ postion and hold there under spring tension for thirty seconds or so before turning the key all the way clockwise to start? I did a continuity check on the switch before install. It seems that ‘ON’ closes ‘1’ (power) and ‘2’ (gauges). ‘H’ is closing ‘1’ and ‘3’ and ‘Start’ is closing ‘1’ and ‘4’. Is this all correct on my part?
-
-
maybe nothing I would first check the grounds and the battery connections , sounds like a high resistance connection(got voltage but when applying a load no amps, voltage falls). There has been problems with the key switches even new. There was some old posts about taking the glow plugs and starter off the switch and putting them on dedicated relays . Those both are good ideas even if all you do is one you will benefit .
-
Thanks for the reply. I pulled the voltage regulator and turned the switch to ‘ON’ and I didn’t get the voltage drop. I then pulled the whole fuse box and cleaned all the connections and used Di-Electric grease on all the connections. While doing this, I found the voltage wire going to the voltage regulator had come out of the housing. I directly connected it to the regulator and saw that it was extremely loose on the terminal. I slightly squeezed down on it before returning it to the fuse box and put the regulator back in its place. Much better. Turned the key and the gauges fired up. Very good sign. Attempted to turn over, but wouldn’t start, bit cold here in Colorado. Plugged the block heater in and checked the battery connections. Little loose on the positive terminal. Heated the block about 30 minutes, started right up.
I hate tracing electrical.
Case Closed
-
maybe nothing I would first check the grounds and the battery connections , sounds like a high resistance connection(got voltage but when applying a load no amps, voltage falls). There has been problems with the key switches even new. There was some old posts about taking the glow plugs and starter off the switch and putting them on dedicated relays . Those both are good ideas even if all you do is one you will benefit .
Yep, did the Glow plug circuit relay when assembling the tractor out of crate, need to do the starter circuit next. Every year at least once I have to take every connection in that circuit apart and clean it. :wacko:
-
-
I recommend to everyone that you upgrade the glow plug switch. I have a kit here to do it, that I can sell and send out. Or you can build your own kit. We have found that you do not get the full amount of power to the glow plugs if you use the ignition key switch. Run a wire from your battery to a switch on your dash, then a wire from switch to glow plug bar. This will help out a ton with cold starting.
Tyler Nystrom
Keno Tractors
parts@kenotractors.com
866-363-8193
Phone hours: M-F 8am to 5:30pm PST Sat 9am to 1pm PST -
Here’s how I did mine. The Yellow wire is the lead from the switch that used to go to the glow plugs, it now energizes the solenoid. The Blue wire is a hot off the starter going through a 40 amp relay to the solenoid powering the glow plugs when the key switch energizes the solenoid. The only wire not shown is a black wire going from the far side of the solenoid to the glow plugs. Simple, effective. :yahoo:
-
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.